There are two ways to “process” a singular clock in the photo. It focuses on design or specifications. Both are impressive. Steel and Rose Gold – PVD treated models are available for limited driving of 100 each. The automatic Miyota 9075 “Flyer” GMT movement is in an architectural case, so the price of 750 USD will be these back watches. That’s if you like the big “vans” these watches make. The brutal case shape and minimalist dial certainly have an acquired taste. But I will be “cruelly” honest with you. I love Papal Anilo GMT.
Finish off the specifications for the Papar Anillo GMT Steel and Rose Gold so you can focus on your design. Despite its amazing original shape, the 316L steel case has 100 million water resistance ratings. As you can see in the photo, its dimensions are also not average. The case at this angle is 36mm in diameter, 12mm thick, and 43mm lug toe. 4.92mm thickness 9075 “Flyer” GMT internal movement allows you to set the time independently. Set the time hand with a small screw crown and you’ll see a clear click. The Miyota 9075 was a true game changer as it brought excellent GMT features to an affordable level. No, I don’t think they need the GMT-Master II and the Papar Anillo GMT, but there’s a reason why many of the “caller” GMTs out there are fears of the watches that the Miyota 9075 has.
I love Papar Anillo GMT. There’s a reason for that
The way Papar Anillo GMT displays the second time zone is one of the many reasons why I like this watch. It is also a bridge between function and design. This “flyer” GMT displays an additional 24-hour time zone via a rotating GMT disc under the laser cut dial rather than in the center hand. There are 24 compartments with red or orange indicators that emphasize time. The 12 paper brand logos double as day/night indicators. Colors change throughout the day to visually represent the morning, afternoon and night in your home timezone. Once you know where to look, it works. It’s easy to read and is surprisingly intuitive. So, while the functionality is in the point, how are brutal watches worn out?
A little bit of papal background
This is the first time I’ve featured Papar on Fratello, so the background might be good. The Papal Watch Company is run by a couple’s duo. It was founded in the high desert of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, by designers Josh and Pappal’s chief creative officer Emily. The brand currently operates in the Berkshire Mountains of Massachusetts. For their first watch, Emily and Josh found inspiration in vintage watch designs, brutal architecture. The name is a combination of papel, meaning “paper” in Spanish, meaning “folding” in the same language. You can certainly see the “folded” shape of the Anilo case. Incidentally, the watch’s name is Spanish for “ring” and, given the modern interpretation of the sector dial, it makes sense considering it has an outer ring that displays the second time zone.
Brutal background
The term “brutal” was invented in 1956 by Swedish architect Hans Aspland as an ironic statement about the project being constructed. The term comes from the famous Swiss architect Le Corbusier’s use of Beton Britt, meaning “raw concrete” in French. “Brutal” is a lost term in translation, but expressing disapproval is also intentional. It’s sad to know that Le Corbusier began working specifically out of love for materials. The first building he designed after World War II was La Unite Davitation, a Marseille apartment made of reinforced concrete for 1,600 working-class people. Other architects followed Le Corbusier as it was built with the best intentions and a positive perception of the future.
La Unit de Havitation in Marseille – Image: Semar Emden
The angular concrete buildings were initially a huge success, but these brutal structures began to fall out of fashion as people began to recognize them as overwhelming and cold in the 1970s. Today, the harsh and impressive brutality is revived with the non-implicit use of raw concrete and geometric shapes. The Oscar-nominated film “The Brutalist” plays part of it, as well as the fact that trends come and go. In a world of melancholic retro styles, brutalism’s much harsher, less-than-attitude design approach is a strong contrast.
Other brutalists
The $750 Papar Anillo GMT isn’t just the brutal watch available today. Two other watches come to mind. Audemars Piguet (Re) Master02 Self-wrapping and Toledano & Chan B/1. These watches share the edgy lines of the Anilho GMT, but Papal has the edge of pricing. Steel Toledano & Chan costs 4,000 US dollars and Sand Gold’s “AP” is 47,400 Euros. The big differences in pricing make it impossible to compare these watches. Sadly, this happens inevitably. For example, there are fewer watches that are infinitely brutal than dive watches.
I’m wearing a Papar Anillo GMT
Of the two colorways of the Papar Anillo GMT, I prefer the “soft” one. The black dial steel version is as difficult as it gets. The contrast of this model is very strong, partly due to the steel-colored hands, a triangle of red markers showing the second time zone, and a black nylon strap. The dramatic, angular lines on the steel case stand out due to the contrast between the bare metallic colour and the brush and polished surface. Especially in bare steel, the watch case imitates the Betonblat building.
The rosy version is a little softer. Just as AP used sand gold to soften the angular creation, the tone of the roses makes the Anilo GMT more accessible. Place it on your wrist looks more attractive. This is also because the color used on the dial is soft. The hand matches the color of the case, the center part of the dial is in a beige shade, the 24-hour ring is gray, the orange triangle marks the second timezone, and the flange runs in a green shade of green.
Of course, the Rose Gold and Steel models of the Anilo GMT feel the same on the wrist. Certainly, it takes time to get used to a small thick watch that doesn’t look like what you’ve been wearing up until now, but when you’re able to wear something entirely new, how cool is it? I really enjoy these moments. Luckily, I had the opportunity to try out Toledano & Chan B/1 and Audemars Pig (RE) Master02 Self-winding and get the feeling of experiencing something different. The same thing happened with two new Papal clocks.
More about Papar Anillo GMT
The lined nylon strap looks consistent with the look of the case and comes with a custom-designed pin buckle with a angular, custom-designed pin buckle. However, it takes time to tear these straps. This will initially push the Anilo GMT from its ideal position on your wrist. If these 20mm straps don’t penetrate quickly enough for you, they have a quick release system so you can easily swap out. Still, it is recommended to use it as the original buckle is part of the overall look.
The shape and details of Anillo GMT speak to me. It starts with the case shape. This vaguely resembles a sharp, edgy version of Roger Debuis’s sympathy incident. The straight “four-part” octagonal bezel is a geometric delight with Escher-like properties. Showing subtle differences in height, combined with a round dial under the AR-coated sapphire crystal, the bezel becomes a hypnotic object. A detailed and clear profile of the case is a visual bonus, and due to the thickness of the watch, you will see it a lot. This is good because the different finishes stand out and the dynamic interaction between the shape and lines keeps eye-catching.
Brutal balance
But it’s not all highly rated. The small octagonal screw-in crown looks great and matches the watch proportionally. But operating it is not the most amazing watch experience. It’s too small and angular. This watch has a GMT function – it interacts more than normal three-time clocks, as it is probably one of the last true practical complications of a mechanical wristwatch. But the crown is not an escapee. The quality ratio of price design is perfectly balanced.
I think Papar Anillo GMT is a brutal beauty, what are you thinking? Please let me know in the comments below.
