Time + tide
The first week of April is home to watches and wonders, and is now the most important watch fair in the world, with watches and wonders being held in Geneva, Switzerland. Naturally, the Time+Tide team was on the ground to see the most exciting releases in the industry, but Clocks and Wonders weren’t the only game in town. Also exhibited small exhibitions such as Time to Watches and The Ahci’s Masters of Horology, as well as many other brands on display at hotels such as The Beau-Rivage and its Ateliers during this broad “Geneva Watch Week.”
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9wqomntqga
In short, it was a week of hell. We all had the opportunity to go back home and digest what we saw and released, so we took it as a team to share our favourite watch from Geneva Watch Week. Also, contact our socialites to hear what your favorite watch of the week is. Anyway, let’s get into it!
Jamie’s Pick: Zenith GFJ Caliber 135
Last year, I was told I got married on Team Video and decided to nominate another watch as my favorite during Geneva Watch Week. Call it the advantage of hindsight. But my “marriage” watch has stuck to guns this year, as my “marriage” watch remains my favorite watch, even after I had time to return to Australia and reflect. The watch is Zenith GFJ. This is a strong celebration of Zenith’s 160th anniversary, not a stunning and incredibly complicated dress watch.
I don’t think it’s very responsive to watches, just like when I tried out GFJ. The dial surrounding the case with curved platinum is a work of art. It combines Guilloche, Lapis Lazuli (stone dials are trendy, baby!) and dyed mother-of-pearl, but its movement, a modern revival of legendary caliber 135, is also cracker. Place it under a 10x magnifying glass in Geneva and from the logo printing on the dial to the brick-like machining of the bridge, it is perfectly perfect. The bracelet is especially baller (more than double the retail price of GFJ if there is an option).
Backpack Pick: Grand Seiko SLGB003 Spring Drive UFA Ice Forest
Certainly, this is an obvious choice for me as an established Grand Seiko file (and for those who watched our kiss, marriage, and those who kill our videos. The SLGB003 Spring Drive UFA is smaller in size, with a new micro-adjustable clasp, offering everything many Grand Seiko fans have long been begging for. The compact case and micro-adjustable clasp have been wanted for a very long time, almost completely outperforming the movement of the new 9RB2 Ultra Fine Precision Spring Drive, the headline news for this release. With an accuracy rating of less than 20 seconds a year, it is the most accurate Spring Drive watch on the market today.
This is the watch that comes in a matching bracelet with a “give you everything you need in one watch” box, and a 100-meter water-resistant titanium case, with a new micro-adjusting system, and if Grand Seiko watches are zero in their collection, this will definitely be my first pick. Sadly, my collection has snowflakes and a few other blue dials, and this blue silver feels a bit repetitive in my collection. Perhaps if a more adventurous dial is merged with this format, I’d jump on it. But the real reason why this release excites me so much is that the smaller Spring Drive movement suggests the possibility of other watches using derivatives, including smaller Grand Seiko Dive watches.
Buffy’s Picks: Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complycation
There could be a thin battle over the previous year (and there’s Bvlgari, which has recently held another record), but Vacheron Constantin is breaking a record that could take decades here. The Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complycation is currently the most complicated wristwatch in the world, but what’s more impressive than the 41 complications is its abrasion and ease of use. The 45mm x 15mm isn’t that small, but considering all its features it is totally surprising. Who other than Vacheron Constantin can make a mechanical watch that can calculate the future position of the heavenly object and make it slimmer than most automatic chronographs? It’s not just a masterclass in watchmaking, it’s also an exciting demonstration of the future of astronomical complications.
Borna’s Pick: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer
Nomos is a rarely wrong brand, but I’m totally honest, their last two major announcements made me a bit worried. The 31 different dials released in W&W 2024 were cool, but not so innovative, and Tangente 2date was totally pointless in my mind. Thankfully, Watches and Wonders 2025 is a complete 180, returning to the form of the Glashütte Watchmaker, bringing real improvements to the long-semi-forgotten model.
The new Clubsport World Timer took everything great about Zurich, but improved it with a more wearable case (40.5mm x 9.9mm x 48mm lagtoo lug), a significantly improved caliber, and honestly, one of the most comfortable dial designs I’ve seen in a while. The two normal production variations of the sunburst finish are excellent enough, but what really caught my eye is the pastelless. Nomos certainly doesn’t focus on entry-level pieces, but I think it’s well worth it here. Given the level of competition at W&W, I think that speaks volume.
Pietro’s Pick: Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon
Yes, as a reader, you can already see what you are thinking. But it’s something special. It doesn’t make sense in real life, but it still exists. I really enjoyed all the previous iterations, but despite them being literally technical marvels, I didn’t feel a connection with them. This time it was different – quite different. This was as if to hold on to everything that is an essential preparation for a full evaluation of this.
For those who don’t know me yet, this is not even my style! Usually I want a dress piece that looks classic. Well, this is as much as possible from that idea, but the moment I put it on, everything fell into the right place. And when I fitted a thin paper bracelet like a glove and closed the clasp, I knew of all the watches I tried, the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon was one of them.
Alex’s Pick: Cartier Prime Tank Gicchets
Cartier is one of the rare watchmakers who can celebrate more eclectic works that help shape the legendary identity, while also creating watches that captivate the wider public. It can be exciting to see the Maison turn inward like Cartier. Looking back at their rich archives, we reintroduce respected works like Tank Gichets: watches that balance the charm of authentic vintage while retaining a strong modern appeal to modern collectors. I can’t just pick one such thing since Zach reviewed them. However, as such a passionate and fan-engaging release, you can first draw me into this world and get a hopeful glimpse into the future of our industry from a big brand. Now, if they just regain the tank vasculante, I might find myself squeezing the market value of one of my non-essential organs.
