Omega Seamaster 300M VS. Rolex Submariner

In fact, we already compared the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M to the Rolex Submariner back in March of this year. Surprisingly, this was the first time these two classics faced off on Sunday Morning Showdown. However, these two watches both had dates on them. With the new black no-date version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M unveiled this week, we think we have a good chance of a rematch with the current no-date Rolex Submariner.

The new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M not only has no date, but also has an aluminum bezel insert and dial, as well as a different bracelet. This year’s first battle between the Omega Seamaster and Rolex Submariner resulted in an even vote, 50-50. Let’s see if an undated version of the same battle leads to a completely different outcome.

Last week on Sunday Morning Showdown…

Before we get into that, let’s find out what happened on last week’s Sunday Morning Showdown. It was a battle between two vintage-inspired GMT sports watches: the Tudor Black Bay 58 and the L’Aventure Transatlantic II GMT. Of course, these are two watches made by two completely different companies. Tudor has been around since 1926 and Laventure was founded just seven years ago. There are also significant differences in the number of watches these companies produce. But at the end of the day, these are two vintage-inspired GMT watches, and we thought it would be a good idea to pit them against each other.

The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT won with 73% of the votes. Most people thought it was worth more than the price. But it’s nice to see some Laventure owners also share their thoughts on this in the comments. They showed that buying a watch isn’t necessarily about getting the best bang for your buck, it’s also about the emotional connection you have with the watch. Well, let’s see what Dern and Thomas have to say about today’s contestants.

Daian: Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Ref. 210.30.42.20.01.010/003

When I first saw images of Daniel Craig at the Paris Olympics, I was secretly hoping he was wearing a new, smaller Seamaster on his wrist. Unfortunately, we now know that he did not. It was indeed the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, but it still had the same 42mm case as before. To be honest, both of today’s battle watches felt a little too big for my 17cm wrist. So for me, it comes down to choosing between their designs.

Image: Watch Club

Of course, the Rolex Submariner is a timeless classic. Its recognizable design slowly evolved to become the icon it is today. Many other watches are inspired by the Rolex Submariner. But at the end of the day, nothing comes close to the Submariner’s design. The Oyster case and bracelet, unidirectional rotating bezel, and iconic dial layout can be spotted from a mile away. Moreover, the quality of Rolex watches remains unparalleled. It feels very solid in both the hand and wrist.

But if I had to choose between the current no-day Rolex Submariner and the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, I would choose the latter. Let me explain, Thomas.

A design that you either love or hate

We know that Omega’s Seamaster 300M doesn’t even come close to the Submariner’s famous status. I think 90’s design is timeless and you either love it or hate it. I don’t think there’s anyone who can’t resist the Submariner’s classic design. On the contrary, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M’s twisted lugs, skeletonized hands, helium escape valve, and wave dial have sparked even more controversy. Still, I like the 300M’s quirky design. I think it’s all coming together somehow, especially in this new version.

I was lucky enough to attend the launch of the James Bond 60th Anniversary Omega Seamaster Diver 300M in London. It was great to get my hands on the clean blue version of the Seamaster Diver 300M. We like the undated layout with no color accents, the finely wavy dial, and the low-gloss aluminum bezel insert. However, the animation on the back was a bit overdone. But now we have the newly introduced black Seamaster Diver 300M without that animation. I much prefer this clean monochrome version to the “regular” Seamaster Diver 300M with its black ceramic dial and bezel insert.

Aluminum or ceramic?

So we come to the aluminum vs. ceramic debate. Aside from size, my biggest gripe with the current Rolex Submariner is the shiny ceramic bezel insert. Since these watches are luxury items, I think they “should” have some shine, but I prefer a brushed ceramic insert or an old-fashioned aluminum insert like the one found on the new Seamaster Diver 300M. Yes, we know that ceramic is scratch resistant and will look new even after many years. However, I simply prefer the matte look of the aluminum bezel insert.

I think Omega could have equipped the new Seamaster Diver 300M with a brushed ceramic bezel insert, but the fact is that the aluminum bezel, like the rest of the watch, shows wear after a few years. I like it. If you really want your watch to look new again, you can send it in for polishing and a new bezel insert. But the new Seamaster Diver 300M isn’t all great.

Oyster through the mesh every time

One thing I can’t miss is the Seamaster mesh bracelet. It looks very cool and adds to the vintage feel that Omega is going for with the 300M in this series. However, on the wrist it doesn’t work for me. The folding clasp is too clunky and the mesh doesn’t bend or taper well around the wrist. The Rolex Oyster bracelet, on the other hand, has been tried and tested and I honestly feel it is one of the most robust and best bracelets in the industry.

Luckily, Omega also offers the new Seamaster 300M with a nice black curved end rubber strap. The slightly brushed surface looks great when combined with the rest of the new 300M’s matte details. It also maintains the overall monochrome look well and is very comfortable to wear. Another bonus is that the new Seamaster Diver 300M is priced at an acceptable €6,600 (€7,200 with mesh bracelet). As for the strap, it’s nearly 3,000 euros cheaper than the Oyster bracelet Submariner, which currently retails for 9,500 euros. Of course, only if the boutique manager is willing to sell it.

So, if you ask me, I’d choose the new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M over the current no-date Rolex Submariner ref. 124060 Any day of the week. But Thomas, I think you have a completely different opinion on this matter.

Thomas: Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060

I certainly think so, Daan, but reading between the lines I get the feeling that you agree with my choices to some degree. First of all, let me say that I love the new Seamaster. Finally, Omega released a watch with less decoration rather than more decoration. Gone are the shiny areas and red accents, in favor of a beautiful matte texture and simple lines. These are definitely my favorite Omega releases in the last few years.

Unfortunately, as already mentioned, there is no mention of ratios. I don’t care about big dive watches. I have owned and enjoyed the 44mm and 45mm Divers. The size itself, 42mm in diameter, is not that large for a diver’s watch. Carrying the Seamaster is a bit cumbersome. Due to its length, thickness, and flatness, it looks much larger on your wrist than it measures. Like you, I think my forearms look bad. (Cue the angry comments attacking our masculinity.)

The no-date Submariner is more universally wearable. Sure, it doesn’t fit in as gracefully as our pre-ceramic ancestors, but hey, we’re living in 2024 and we have to accept reality. It can be worn elegantly even on a small wrist of 17.5 cm.

Let’s not think about the no-date Submariner.

“Try not to think about the Rolex No-Date Submariner,” I think might be the most common phrase ever said in a watch design studio. Classic diver watch design seems to have reached its peak in the early 1950s. Many of the subsequent contestants seem like intricate attempts at being different, or simply homages. The Seamaster is of the former type, with all its vague and unnecessary details. When you shift your gaze from the Seamaster to the Submariner, you can feel the muscles around your eyes, and even your brain, relax.

Why is it so good? Because the Submariner is the simplest design solution to the challenge at hand. If you want to create a watch for divers with perfect visibility in the dark, a dive time bezel, excellent water resistance, reliability, and everyday wearability, the simplest solution is something like the Rolex No Date Submariner. It will be.

There’s a reason this is a typical shape. It’s very difficult to remove anything from the Sub without compromising performance. This is why it became iconic. I think this is one of the few watches that truly lives up to its name. It will also be completely timeless. Rolex performs mandatory updates approximately every 10 years, which keeps it relevant.

Probably the best everyday watch on the market from a technical point of view.

If I had to describe Sub’s engineering in one word, it would be “virtuoso.” The No Date Submariner is very comfortable. Darn, you already mentioned the bracelet, which is a prime example of that. Omega mesh is complex, bulky, and prone to problems. In my opinion, the modern Oyster is the best bracelet ever made. It’s simple, unbreakable, and feels like it’s articulated on oiled ceramic ball bearings. Daan ends up opting for a rubber strap, which is very cool, but again, more of a compromise than a luxury.

The excellent tactile sensation extends to all everyday operations, such as rotating the bezel and operating the crown. Everything feels confident and positive. Even with your eyes closed, you can tell by your fingertips as you operate the Sub that you just bought a very expensive watch.

The same goes for movement. If you’re buying a watch to wear hard and every day for a long period of time, you’ll want either a simple Sellita/ETA or Rolex movement. why? Because they are ultimately designed and engineered to be reliable and maintainable. These aren’t the beauties you’d keep in the back of a display case, but they’ve been toiling away for decades.

Which one would you choose?

Admittedly, darn, I’m tempted by the new Seamaster Diver 300M model. They are very attractive and cool. If I was saving money to buy a Submariner, I’d probably hear about these Seamaster temptations when it’s over 6,000 euros. In fact, it’s more interesting and less predictable than the non-date Submariner. In fact, you might even find them more attractive.

However, if you’re familiar with the world of watches, you may notice that the purchasing process has changed. You will learn that you can fall in love with the next shiny object, but in the end you may not end up loving it long term. With a Seamaster, you buy what’s popular at the time, but what if Omega released a version with a better bracelet or 39mm case?The Rolex Submariner might be a little boring, but which version or generation? Even if you get one, you’ll enjoy it for a lifetime. For me, this is my breakout watch from these two.

It’s time to vote!

There you have it, two very cool no-date diver’s watches with a distinct monochromatic theme. Which one would you choose? Vote and share your motivation in the comments section below!