IWC has added several new models to the Portugieser family in recent years, one of which is the iconic chronograph. In our latest visit to the WatchTime archives, we tested this good old friend, which boasts a trendy green dial and is powered by an in-house caliber.
The Portugieser is one of IWC’s oldest and most exclusive product lines, with dials that have remained largely unchanged for over 80 years. “This is why we approached the design project for the new collection very carefully and with great respect for our history,” explained IWC CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr and Creative Director Christian Knoop.
The beautiful Portuguese dial remains almost unchanged
With excellent results, all doubts were answered. Looking at the attractive dial of the Portugieser Chronograph, we immediately recognized it as a dear old acquaintance. However, the dial of our test watch is now in fashionable green, playing with the light. Another version comes with a burgundy dial. There is also a Boutique Edition with an elegant blue dial and rose gold case.
The very distinctive, clear and functional dial is 38 mm in diameter, with recessed counters at 6 and 12 o’clock, thin leaf hands and Arabic numerals. These features are so strongly influenced by the Portuguese Chronograph that, even in the new version, the designers did not dare to replace the partially cut numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock with supposedly “simpler” index strokes. If we compare this latest update with the last tweak made about 10 years ago, we can see that the scale of the inward-facing numeral counters, the lettering and the thin quarter-second scale on the flange are all unchanged. Overall, the latest version of this timeless watch retains its unique characteristics and remains true to its origins as a time-measuring instrument, starting with the finely adjusted elapsed seconds scale. Three strokes are inserted between each pair of one-second lines, the markings of which precisely match the 4 Hz rhythm of the refined version of IWC’s latest 69000 caliber family movements.
IWC’s popular model finally gets an in-house caliber
Named 69355, this caliber is an essential new feature for the latest Portugieser Chronograph. One of the most popular pieces in IWC’s portfolio is finally being equipped with an in-house caliber. This was not the case ten years ago, when the young Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph was equipped with an in-house movement from the 89000 caliber family, introduced in 2007. The 69000 caliber family debuted ten years later and underwent a further four years of development before being fitted to the Ingenieur Chronograph for the first time in 2017.
IWC is gradually replacing its ETA/Valjoux 7750-based chronograph movements with its newly designed 69000-series calibers, while at the same time offering a cheaper alternative to its in-house 89000-series calibers. The watch we tested is priced at $7,950. The cheapest model of the new Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph with caliber 89361 sells for $12,100. For an extra fee, you also get a flyback function and a longer power reserve of 68 hours. On the other hand, the 69355 caliber has a power reserve of 46 hours, which is quite short by modern standards, and this caliber relies on an index to adjust the effective length of the hairspring. This is an easier way to fine-tune the speed than the eccentric screw on the edge of the balance of the 89361 caliber in the Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph.
Elsewhere, the chronograph calibre 69355 features a robust and precise column wheel that controls the stopwatch functions, a locking pinion that couples the chronograph with the power flow from the gear train, and a modern, bidirectionally effective automatic winding mechanism – although this automatic winding is not the Pellaton mechanism (named after a former IWC engineer) found in the 89000-series calibres, but rather a more recent development from the Richemont Group.
The speed of the movement keeps the promise of quality
The placement of the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock is unusual, as most chronographs place this indicator at 9 o’clock. While other models of the caliber 69000 feature a 12-hour elapsed counter at 9 o’clock, the Portugieser Chronograph does not, nor does it feature an on-dial date at 3 o’clock. To respect the watch’s history and further enhance the harmony of the design, this latest Portugieser only features a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock and does not feature luminous numerals, indexes or hands.
Flip the watch over to view the back, where the four screws secure the sapphire crystal, and you’ll find numerous details typical of IWC movement construction, such as a Geneva stripe-style circular pattern, satin finishes, circular graining, and a skeletonized rotor engraved with the words “Probus Scafusia.” Our tests confirm that this automatic movement lives up to its quality promise. The movement runs very well and achieves balanced rate values. Its behavior on the wrist was similar to the rate measured by our timekeeper when the watch was fully wound. Timing in chronograph mode was equally perfect, with an average daily deviation of around one second.
The Portuguese Chronograph Reflects Timeless Modernity
The stopwatch function is operated by a mushroom-shaped push button. The pressure point on this part is safe, the button moves smoothly and reliably activates the column wheel. The knurled crown is easy to use and can be easily pulled outwards to the hand-setting position. These components complement the classic Portugieser case, whose conical outline is visible from the side. The thin, polished bezel extends beyond the central part of the case, leaving ample space for the dial. The screwed back tapers towards the sapphire crystal with a concave edge curve. The horizontally satin-brushed central part of the case slopes very sharply downwards towards the strap lugs. All this, together with the high-quality alligator leather strap and the convenient butterfly folding clasp, ensures a comfortable wear on the wrist.
A quick glance at the wrist immediately a pleasant surprise awaits, as our “good old friend” is now bathed in a vibrant play of colours. Viewed through the domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal, the dial is no longer green from any angle, but changes from a deep green to almost black, endowing this classic watch with an air of understated elegance. Whether by accident or design, the Portugieser Chronograph thus embodies the timeless modernity for which IWC is known and appreciated.
specification:
Manufacturer: IWC Schaffausen, Baumgartenstrasse 15, 8200 Schaffausen, Switzerland
Reference number: IW371615
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph (central elapsed seconds hand, up to 30-minute elapsed counter)
Movement: IWC 69355 based on caliber family 69000, automatic, 28,800 vibrations per hour, 27 jewels, Glucydur balance, Nivarox hairspring, Ettachron fine adjustment with two-part index, Incabloc shock absorber, 46-hour power reserve, diameter = 30.0 mm, height = 7.90 mm
Case: Stainless steel, domed sapphire crystal on top of dial, anti-reflective coating on both sides, sapphire crystal on case back, water resistant to 30 meters
Strap and Closure: Black alligator leather strap with double folding clasp
Rate results (deviation in seconds per 24 hours, fully wound/after 24 hours):
+1.6 on the wrist
Dial-up +3.1 / +1.4
Dial down +2.5 / +0.0
Crown Up -0.5 / -3.5
Crown Down +4.1 / +4.4
Crown Left -0.3 / -0.8
Maximum deviation 4.6 / 7.9
Average deviation +1.8 / +0.3
Average Amplitude:
Flat position 321° / 292°
Suspension position 296° / 267°
Dimensions: Diameter = 40.95 mm, Height = 13.08 mm, Weight = 90.0 g
Variations: With burgundy dial (Ref. IWC371616; $7,950); Boutique Edition with rose gold case, blue dial and blue strap (Ref. IW371614; $17,800)
Price: $7,950
