Jamie Weiss
Being immersed in the watch industry can sometimes feel like we have endless conversations about market value, flex culture, the perfect watch diameter, and so on. These are all legitimate topics, but they can also distract us from the real appeal of mechanical watches. A mechanical marvel where the combination of gears, springs, and ergonomics combine to create a near-silent symphony is truly a sight to behold. Skeleton watches are cool because they give you an even closer look at the inner workings of this mechanical marvel. Skeleton watches may be a bit showy, but that’s the point. After all, who among us isn’t at least a little bit interested in watches? Either way, here is a list of the best skeleton watches you can find anywhere.
A quick note on definitions
As Borna details in this excellent educational article here, many modern watchmakers have a vague definition of a skeleton watch. Simply put, a skeleton watch (or more accurately, skeletonization) refers to a technique in which a craftsman painstakingly modifies a watch movement by removing as much excess material as possible. However, today the term is used more broadly to refer to most watches that have no dial, or simply watches that are “open-hearted.” Strictly speaking, there is a difference between watches or movements that are designed to be open from the start and the traditional artistry of skeletonization, but for the purposes of this guide, we’ll look at the broader definition. So, let’s get started.
Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Secrete
Named after the street in Le Locle where the Tissot factory is located, the Chemin des Tourelles Skelte is one of the most affordable true skeleton watches on the market (‘skelte’ means ‘skeleton’ in French). This classically proportioned Tissot takes Swatch Group’s ubiquitous Powermatic 80 movement and exposes it in the traditional sense. Hobnailed rings are placed on either side of the exposed movement for a premium look. If you’re looking for a true skeleton watch that’s affordable but doesn’t look cheap, you can’t miss this Tissot. Price: USD 975
Maurice Lacroix Icon Skeleton Urban Tribe
Traditionally, skeletonization involves engraving elements of a watch’s movement with intricate designs. However, this Maurice Lacroix Icon takes the opposite approach, decorating the watch’s case and integrated bracelet with ornate tribal motifs while leaving the watch’s movement exposed. Its ML135 caliber may be based on the humble Sellita SW200-1, but it’s a thing of beauty nonetheless; the armature features a combination of brushing and sandblasting, and the rotor is filleted. Price: USD 4,250
Oris ProPilot X Calibre 115
Oris’ ProPilot line is a staple model from the well-regarded, and typically affordable, Swiss brand. The line also comes in a variety of materials, though this model feels just a little more premium than the others. Made from titanium, it features a bracelet with a clasp that resembles an aircraft seat buckle, making it stand out in a way that brands like Oris rarely attempt. The barrel at 12 o’clock is also skeletonized, giving the wearer a bird’s-eye view of the heart of the watch. This Caliber 115 has a 10-day power reserve, and that heart is a whopping big one. Price: USD 8,900
Hublot Big Bang MECA-10 Ceramic Blue 45mm
While most of Hublot’s latest model watches are skeletonized or feature some sort of open dial, I wanted to feature a MECA-10 model because I find the MECA-10 movement particularly beautiful. Famously worn by tennis star Novak Djokovic, this ceramic Big Bang features blue movement elements that complement the blue ceramic case and rubber strap. With rack-and-pinion-like elements and Meccano-like shapes, the MECA-10 movement shows that skeletonization can create a very eye-catching, decidedly high-tech, industrial aesthetic. Price: USD 25,200
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days
The Bvlgari Octo Finissimo has proven to be one of the most impactful releases in luxury watchmaking of the past decade. A canvas on which Bvlgari broke records for ultra-thinness and experimented with a variety of complications, including tourbillons, perpetual calendars and avant-garde art, the Eight Days model maximizes the potential of the skeletonized Octo Finissimo. At just 5.15mm thick, it blends seamlessly into the wrist, and the exposed movement perfectly complements the decidedly industrial feel of the OF design. And, of course, it has an eight-day power reserve. A great product. Price: USD 27,500
Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton
For some brands, developing a first-of-its-kind wristwatch would be enough of an excuse to rest on their laurels. But that certainly isn’t the path Cartier has chosen for the past century. The Santos line is legendary and easy to spot in the wild, but for those looking for a little more glamour in their Santos, the Santos de Cartier Skeleton might be worth a second (or third) look. It’s hard not to love the classic Santos silhouette, but peering behind the scenes is deeply satisfying. The movement armature forms Roman numerals at each cardinal point, which is a stroke of design genius. Price: USD 30,400
Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic
Skeleton watches can range from glamorous and traditional to hi-tech and modern, but this model is definitely the latter. Piaget’s first ceramic watch, the Polo Ceramic Skeleton, is one of the sportiest timepieces the brand has ever made. Featuring a jet-black ceramic case with black DLC titanium and blue elements, it is powered by the in-house 1200S1 ultra-thin micro-rotor calibre. The movement’s design is highly pleasing to the eye, with a gracefully curved armature, an exposed barrel at 12:30, and a blued micro-rotor visible on both sides of the watch. Price: USD 42,900
Bovet Pininfarina Aperto 1
Swiss luxury watchmaker Bovet and Italian automotive design house Pininfarina, responsible for some of the most iconic automobiles in history, including the Ferrari Daytona, Testarossa and 250 GT SWB, have been collaborating on watches since 2010, resulting in some rather unconventional designs. “Aperto” means “open” in Italian and is used in the automotive industry to refer to a convertible. The Bovet Pininfarina Aperto 1 can be converted from a wristwatch to a pocket watch, pendant or table clock thanks to the “Amadeo” system. Its open character continues in the beautifully hand-finished 15BMPF09-OW movement, which features a wave-finished armature and a clever contrast of negative space. Price: USD 57,000
Parmigiani Tonda PF Skeleton
Parmigiani Fleurier has been making waves lately, breaking into the “big boys” realm of Swiss watchmaking. One look at the platinum Tonda PF Skeleton and it’s easy to see why. The movement is pure elegance housed in a contemporary case. With its flowing organic curves, lavish rose gold highlights and unparalleled ergonomics… the skeletonized in-house caliber PF777 is very impressive, measuring just 3.9mm in height including the full-sized rotor, but best of all, the use of colorless rubies is particularly genius. It’s utterly elegant. Price: USD 130,000
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton
Vacheron Constantin is a brand steeped in history and old-world charm. But that doesn’t mean the brand is stuffy – far from it. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton is proof of that. Unlike the majority of VC’s creations, this movement is actually fairly minimally finished – just minimal brushing and a touch of circular graining. But the symmetry and complexity of the calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 doesn’t require much embellishment. Housed in pink gold and with a peripheral rotor (so as not to interfere with the beautiful skeletonization), this watch is the ultimate blend of tradition and avant-garde. Price: USD 200,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openwork 41mm “Sand Gold”
Finally, another option for those who prefer an industrial integrated bracelet skeleton watch is the Audemars Piguet. This watch says, “I’m here, you’d better recognize it,” and not without some thinking. This is a Royal Oak designed by Gerald Genta, one of the most influential watch designers of all time, after all. This particular option also comes with a variety of extra perks. First off, it’s made from an alloy that AP calls “sand gold.” This is an 18-karat gold alloy with high levels of copper and palladium, which gives it a warm, dusty look that’s somewhere between white gold and rose gold. Add in a flying tourbillon proudly placed in a beautifully symmetrical skeleton movement, and you’ve got yourself an eye-catching watch. Price: $270,000 USD
T+T Timeless Pick: Zenith x Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton “Night Surfer El Primero”
We may be a little biased in our choice of this watch, but there is a reason for it. Zenith is a brand that has always valued innovation and precision. The El Primero movement is one of the most legendary movements of the last century, and it would be almost criminal not to flaunt it in a skeletonized version. But despite its heritage and history, this high-beat movement seems like just a nice added bonus given the beauty of the rest of the watch. This is the second skeleton watch we’ve produced in collaboration with Zenith. The first was the OG Night Surfer, based on the Defy Classic Skeleton. Both feature our signature sandblasted titanium and dark blue combination. This model features a generous amount of lume on the star-shaped bridge, hour marker indexes, and hands to further enhance its nocturnal character. It’s the perfect choice for anyone who wants to brave a late-night shoot and look good doing it… well, it was. Because these sold out a long time ago. Retail Price: $12,000 at Time+Tide Shop
