The first limited edition of Jason Lee Hodinkee is a modest and highly considered retro tool watch since its acquisition by Switzerland’s Watches. Rare Antarctic GMT of the 1960s, ref. 87013, it emerged through the Hodinky Shop. It combines mid-century proportions with modern Lume and Oudles with compressor-style GMT features.
Nivada Grenchen may be an unfamiliar name to some readers, but the brand’s roots date back to 1926 in Grenchen, Switzerland, building a reputation for tool watches built for practical purposes. After a long dormant of the quartz era, Nivada was revived in 2018 with a faithful re-edited programme by Guillaume Ridett and Remi Chablatt. In particular, Hodinkee’s friend appeared as an early retail partner during its comeback. (Editor’s note: Time+Tide is also a brand’s retail partner!)
Introduced as Aquamatic and later renamed “Antarctica,” following its association with the US Navy’s Deep Freeze (1955–56), the company’s mid-term field watches continue to line up the brand’s central intrusions to ensure that it is utilitarian, easy to read and worn daily, rather than dominating the wrist. Seven years after that revival, Nivada and Hodinky are collaborating on Hodinky’s Antarctic GMT limited edition. The project was presented as Hodinkee’s first limited edition since the company’s acquisition of Swiss watches late last year, setting a release for a refocus on a New York-based media brand.
As the name signalles, the Antarctic GMT limited edition is a vintage blend of approach to the practicality of travel time. This design draws directly from the rare Antarctic GMT of the 1960s, Reference 87013. This emerged through the Hodinky Shop, pointing out that Nivada is a touchstone for the wider revival of the Antarctic GMT line. In reality, it means performing a matte grey dial, an internal 24-hour bezel operated by a secondary crown, and a high contrast approach to vision, a completely bright treatment that applies not only to markers and mobile phones, but also to internal bezels and dial text.
Compared to the mainline Antarctic GMT, the limited edition highlights a higher water resistance (100 meters), a trimmer profile, a more peel-off back and readability first dial. The case runs on 316L stainless steel, 36mm in diameter and 11.1mm thick, nearly 2mm thinner than the 12.75mm figure previously cited in Antarctica GMT. Lug -to -Lug is a compact 40mm and has a versatile 20mm lug width.
Finishing is restrained. The top surface is brushed vertically, giving you a nod to the aesthetics of a vintage EPSA compressor, and the refined areas near the rug provide a crisp contrast. The crystal moves to the sapphire for this edition. According to the brand, the upgrade is tied to a doubled water resistance of 50 to 100 meters, absorbing specifications in line with Antarctica tool watch positioning.
The operation is easy. The dual crown system separates tasks. The 2 o’clock crown turns the 24-hour internal ring, and the 4 o’clock crown is in its first position, adjusting the GMT hand and date. Pull to the second position and set the local time to the 12-hour display. The dial uses adjacency layout for a minimum period of time. At 12 o’clock, I sit with the complete “Nibada Grench” wordmark, rather than the script “Antarctic”, which is omitted here, but the suppressed “Auto GMT” balances the lower half of the dial. White markers, mobile phones, mobile phones, internal GMT scales, and even applied lighting are filled with super laminova that emit a green glow, creating a consistent nighttime signature and a deliberate high contrast look during the day.
Inside is the Soprod C125, an automatic movement that beatings at 4 Hz with a 42-hour power reserve. The closed caseback carries up to 225 individual numbers and features a steel “penguin” medallion. This explicitly nods to the mid-century Antarctic using a golden medallion, translated here into stainless steel that matches the case.
On the wrist, dimensions suggest an inconspicuous presence. The 36mm footprint and 40mm lug-to-lug are firmly placed in the mid-century area, with a thickness of 11.1mm to slide easily under the cuff. Vertical brushing of the case adds practical notes, while polished accents prevent the watch from reading excessive austerity. The package comes in two gray options. This is both abrasion-resistant NATO and suede leather straps, which match the pallet with the dial.
Close thoughts
The upshot is a compact GMT that leans against Nivada’s most powerful historical tale without turning it into a fax. The case is thinner than before, more water resistant, and the function is neatly divided between the two crowns. This is a set of choices that feel thinking rather than ornamental.
If the brief is to create an Antarctic ready to travel after it’s clean readily every day and definitely dark, then the specs land on the target. For readers who prefer discreet sizing and dials that are not organized by brands, this is a collaboration that focuses on usage. And for those who track how Hodinkee handles limited editions after acquisition, this is not a grand gesture, but a gently stated marker.
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT Hodinkee Limited Edition Pricing and Availability
The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Gmt Hodinkee Limited Edition is limited to a total of 225 units and is currently available only from Swiss watches (online, SoHo & American Dream Store). Price: USD 1,740
Brand Nivada Grenchen Model Model Antarctic GMT Limited Edition for Hodinkee Reference 32073a Case Dimensions 36mm(D) x 11.1mm(T) Case Material Stainless Steel Water Resistant 100m Crystal 100m Crystal Availability is limited to 225 pieces, price is 1,740 USD
