Pietropira
We are in the middle of our 2025 Geneva Watch. The brands are about to be different from one another in both new releases and events, including those not on display in Geneva. We were spoiled for our choices and narrowed down our selections was extremely difficult, but below are 20 selected this week. It was one of the moments when I felt like a kid in a candy shop, and every style, movement, and colour can be imagined. I know it’s a longer than usual summary (and this isn’t even all releases!), but it’s worth it. Enjoy reading!
Bvlgari X Lee Ufan Octo Finissimo
Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Woo-hwan joins an elite group of artists who offer unique take on Bvlgari’s most popular models. This model was born after the contrast between the pristine stone and mirrors seen in his sculptures. This titanium is a hand-covered model, limited edition of 150 pieces, featuring a mirror effect dial typical of the artist’s style. Price: CHF 18,900.
For more information about the Bvlgari x Riufan Octofinisimo, please click here.
Berneron Quantième Annuel
Sylvain Berneron follows Mirage with something very different for his second collection. More hinting at traditional horology, both variants feature a 950 platinum case with a protective layer of 904L steel at a critical point. The unique movement is developed with readability in mind, along with what is called a cross-architecture with vertical calendar adaptation. Price: Starting from CHF 120,000.
For more information about Berneron Quantième Annuel, click here.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal
On his 15th anniversary, Laurent Ferrier celebrates his first work, the Classical Tourbillon at Cerry Atelier VII. This new iteration of the iconic model is platinum with a vibrant teal enamel dial, which changes tone according to the light condition. The movement also brings a transformation to keep up with the times, and now shows maximum contrast between the darker thenium bridge and rhodium-plated wheels and screws. Price: CHF 195,000.
For more information about the Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal, click here.
Gérald Genta Minute Repeater
Genta’s favorite complexity comes back in a Squircle Gold case decorated with a Black Onyx dial. The new Gérald Genta Minute Repeater is trying to adapt complications to skulls that appear to have been designed by Genta himself. The Genta Minute Repeater, powered by the GG-002, a manual movement developed by La Fabrique Du Temps, is limited to 10 units per year. Price: CHF 320,000.
For more information about the Gérald Genta Minute Repeater, click here.
Louis Erard x Wire Art Fil d’Or
Collaboration with creatives from various industries really sets Louis Erard apart, and this limited edition of 99 pieces continues. Trained engineers Sylvie Villa and Mark Miehlbradt reprogrammed the machine originally built to combine microchips to create delicate gold microfaults. The result of the Black Laquer dial is a cube motif made with 2,320 threads in 24K gold. This is three times more human hair. Price: CHF 4,500.
Learn more about Louis Erard X Wire Art Fil d’Or Here.
Furlan Marri Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx
Switzerland-based vintage-inspired Disruptor Furlan Marri is back with a fresh disco Volante. The new Disco Diamond Onyx features a much-loved Disco Volante case design from the 1930s, matching the deep black onyx dial decorated with baguette cut 0.12 carat diamonds grown in six labs. Again, Furlan Marri proves that the rare Exotica doesn’t have to be so exclusive, and collectors don’t have to offer the familiar aesthetic minus the life-changing price tag. Price: CHF 3,500.
For more information about the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx, click here.
Roger W. Smith Series 6
Legendary watchmaker Roger W. Smith adds another model to his collection using a newly developed caliber that features an surrounding instant-date display. The case is slightly smaller than the Series 4 and also features the complexity of a 40 mm diameter calendar, available in gold or platinum. With the open case back, you can admire the beautifully completed move using the single-wheel version of Daniels’ coaxial escape, as would be expected from this manufacturer. Price: £320,000.
For more information about the Roger W. Smith Series 6, click here.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon and Richard Lange Jumps for a few seconds
A. Lange & Söhne presents the 1815 Tourbillon with a Jet Black Grand Who enamel dial with 950 Platinum. Both models feature Lange’s zeroless set, allowing you to return seconds to zero and allow Minute Hands to accurately align with markers. The new model is typical of Lange, featuring unprocessed German silver, reachable balance cock, blue screws and thread-shaped gold chats with three quarter plates. Price: 250,000 euros and 110,000 euros.
For more information on the number of jumps in the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon and Richard Lange, click here.
MB&F LM101 EVO
MB&F will unveil its fourth EVO model for Geneva Watch Day in 2025. This time we’ll make the “Typical MB&F” LM101 a more sporty look. It brings additional impact protection, brighter colors and fine-tuned case design to the table. The under-screw crown increases water resistance to 80 meters. Price: CHF 62,000.
For more information about the MB&F LM101 EVO, click here.
L.LEROY OSMIOR BAL DU TEMPS
First founded in 1785, L. Leroy celebrates its 240th anniversary and focuses on a limited series, luxury watches. Osmior Collection’s new Bal du Temps is 43mm in diameter and comes in a case made from 18k 5N red gold, platinum or grade 5 titanium. The deep radded chapter ring drives the tiny repeaters with two circular gongs, leaving space for an unobstructed view of the cued caliber L601SQ. Price: on request.
For more information about the L. Leroy Osmior Bal Du Temps, click here.
H. Moser & cie endeavor perpetual calendar smoked salmon
H. Moser & Cie brings back the smoked salmon shades for a second look. It is currently housed in the case of efforts familiar to the brand’s streamlined calendar displays. The logo toll free number combines vertical glyph texture with Moser’s hume gradient, darkening towards the edges, transitioning from soft copper to warm brown. Inside, it has a handheld HMC 800 manufacturing caliber that offers a minimum of 7 days of power reserve from a twin barrel running at 2.5 Hz, and has a few seconds of hacking with precise settings. Price: 64,000 US dollars.
More information about H. Moser & Cie Endeavor’s Permanent Calendar Smoked Salmon can be found here.
Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Rur
Swiss independent Czapek expresses his tribute to the well-known Czech intellectual, Karel Chapek and his play, Ruhr. The open work features a 12 o’clock robot head with different coloured eyes indicating different states of the chronograph function. Despite the complexity of the automatic caliber SXH6, the 42.5mm stainless steel has a water resistance of 120 meters. Price: CHF 58,000.
For more information about the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante Rur, click here.
Dennison Aldo Dual Time
Dennison drops 2-1, drops two moves into a single ALD case, creating a very retro travel watch. The new range consists of dual stone dials with split contrast, each side featuring a unique movement, crown and handset. Available in a polished stainless steel or gold PVD coating finish, the case remains the typical Dennison with a 37mm soft square ALD case. Price: 890 US dollars.
Find out more about Dennison Ald’s dual-time here.
Zenith ignores Chronograph USM
Zenith joins forces with Swiss furniture manufacturer USM in a quartet of colorful Defy models. The colours are not only inspired by the colours of modular furniture manufacturers, but they also ship to the original USM cabinet. This is a limited edition with 60 pieces for each of the four colors. Everything is sold in a very funky ladder bracelet. Price: £10,400.
For more information about Zenith Defy Chronograph USM, click here.
MicroMilSpec Pilot WorldTimer
Norwegian micro-brand micro-mill specs will launch their first World Timer in two colorways, as one of the first committees was a watch from a pilot of the Royal Norwegian Air Force. This 75-piece limited edition features a 43mm diameter Destol Case for ultimate comfort. The Grade 5 Titanium Case is paired with an integrated rubber strap, available in black or white colorways. Price: Starting from USD 3,850.
For more information about MicroMilSpec pilot WorldTimer, click here.
Tag Heuer Carrera Astronomer
Tag Heuer introduces Carrera Astronomer in three different variations, making a new take on the complications of MoonPhase. It pays homage to the formation movement in history of Heier: Back in 1962, Heier was the first Swiss-made watch to reach space on the wrist of astronaut John Glenn. This watch comes in standard production and two limited editions. Price: CHF 4,350.
For more information about the tag Heuer Currera Astronomer, click here.
Artya Luminity Micro-Rotor AMR-01
Artya houses the new in-house microrotor AMR-01 caliber in the Geneva-based brand’s first 35mm sapphire or titanium case. Several variations are available, either equipped with a full sapphire dial or partially covered with a mother-of-pearl or Amazonite central subdial. This is a limited edition of 99 pieces, and it will be interesting to see how this new size unfolds in the future. Price: Starting from CHF 14,900.
For more information about the Artya Luminity Micro-Rotor AMR-01, click here.
DOXA SUB 750T
The Sub 750T returns to the collection and once again fills the gap between the 600 and the Ultra-Deep 1500. The diameter of 45mm remains the same, but compared to models from 20 years ago, the watch is 11.95mm (instead of 14mm). The classic colorway remains orange, but there are a few more, as you can expect from Doxa’s latest catalogue. Price: Starting from 2,750 USD.
For more information about the DOXA Sub 750T, click here.
Minase 7 Windows 20th Anniversary
Japanese watchmaker Minase is celebrating its 20th anniversary and will release a special snow roe with a black gradient dial. The unique dial is electroformed and reveals a snowflake pattern that blends black and purple tones dancing under various lights. This is a limited edition of 77 pieces and comes in a limited edition leather watch box with a special silver bracelet gift. Price: Starting from USD 5,500.
For more information about Minase 7 Windows 20th Anniversary, click here.
Vario 1945 D12 Bronze Edition
Singapore-based Vario will build a new model with dozens of dirty interpretations, celebrating the 80th anniversary of the end of World War II. Each element, matched with the bronze case and the bronze hand, becomes patina at a different rate over time. The watch is available with canvas straps made from 68% recycled cotton, but band strap options are also available on the website. Price: 428 US dollars.
For more information about the Vario 1945 D12 Bronze Edition, click here.
