The central theme of Zenith’s 160th anniversary this year is blue. The colour of the brand influenced the new GFJ’s grand dial and the trio of festive ceramic releases seen between the watches and wonders. Zenith also introduces a new blue dial from the new Chronomaster original. But fans of the brand know better than just labeling another blue dial. This new Chronomaster’s Blue Sunray dial is inspired by the legendary Zenith A3818 “Cover Girl” dial and is on the cover of Manfred Wrestler’s book about the brand. As a result, this release has more historical relevance than a simple change in dial colors means. I had the opportunity to experience the watch for myself.
A glance at the Zenith Chronomaster’s original with the new blue dial was enough to crack my smile. I previously kept a record to state that Zenith’s creative team is one of the best teams in the industry right now. Chief Product Officer Romain Marietta and creative director Sebastian Gortbert show great creativity, but always show a keen eye at creating new watches that respect the brand’s amazing history. The solution can seem simple, like simply changing the dial, but there are always smart ideas and nods to Zenith’s rich history that caused the release.
This new original story of Zenith Chronomaster
Those familiar with Zenith’s history will know that the 1971 El Primaro A3818 “Cover Girl” is the blue dial variant of the El Primaro A384.
Vintage Zenith El Primaro A3818 – Image: Analog: Shift
The dial has a vertically brushed satin finish, giving it a completely different look than the A384’s dial. In addition, it features a fractional scale from “Pyramid Track” and has added many characters. Zenith produced only 1,000 A3818s during two years of production in 1971 and 1972.
Surprisingly, the watch did not receive its nickname since 1865 in 2009 until it was featured in Manfred Wrestler’s book Zenith: Cover of Swiss Watchmaking. That’s when Zenith fans were called “cover girl.” When asked why he chose the A3818 for the cover, Rössler replied that he had one for the blue dial.
Sometimes things are just as easy. Since then, we have seen a renewed interest in this classic El Primero. Additionally, Zenith and Revolution collaborated in a modern-day “Cover Girl” trio. The first two honored the original blue dial A3818 in stainless steel and titanium. The third model was the blacked carbon version of the “Cover Girl” which was announced earlier this year. However, the A3818 “Cover Girl” comes to mind immediately whenever I see the beautiful blue dial. There was no difference this time.
Details of the new Chronomaster original
So how does Zenith Chronomaster’s original blue dial work? Honestly, we already knew it would work as there is a boutique-only edition with a similar Blue Sunray dial. However, the watch has three white subdials. This new version mixes the colors of the original A386 and A3818, combined with a distinctive overlapping trio of blue dials and blue and gray subdials. However, the new blue dial is different from the slightly bright blue dial on the A3818 revival model. The beautiful Blue Sunray dial is a little darker, richer and more stylish with a touch.
First let’s take a look at some basic specifications. The original Chronomaster comes with a 38mm stainless steel case with a 12.6mm thickness and 47mm lug-to-lug. Thanks to its considerable length, the watch has a wrist presence. Wearing the watch on leather straps and three rows of stainless steel bracelets will be a joy.
In this version of the original of Chronomaster, Zenith paired it with a steel case and a Blue Sunray dial where a lot of things are going on. As you can see, the dials highlight a trio of overlapping gray and blue subdials. It is also where the immediate difference compared to the black dial version stands out. The blue subdial at 3 o’clock matches the color of the base dial, resulting in a natural balance.
Zenith Chronomaster original with black dial
Low contrast, but better integration of elements
The advantage for many is that there is no real contrast between dark blue and black. This can feel a little strange. However, the perfect match between the overall dial color and subdial also removes the visual effects of the three overlapping subdials that other models have. There’s nothing right or wrong here either. It’s just a matter of personal preference.
Is my preference? If you read my review of the Black Dial version, you know I adore that watch. But that’s only half the answer. Because I adore Zenith’s Chrono Masterline and explained that I should start making my wish for a small Zenith collection a reality. So let me go back to which of the two I choose a little.
The detailed dial is a joy to see
Continuing on the journey across the dial, the Blue Sunray Base contrasts with the 100-unit white scale and the 1/10th second scale of Lehart. Applied time markers filled with all white rooms are placed inside the white chronograph ring. An additional step of visual refinement is a micro-track between the markers, subdivided into five steps per minute. This was once the classic A386 Elapsed-Seconds track, suggesting high-frequency movement of the watch. However, the Modern Chronomaster original features a 1/100th second chronograph. This makes this scale an aesthetic design element rather than a functional element. Still, the refinement it brings is welcome.
The 4:30 date window is neatly integrated with the date disc that matches the color and white printing of the dial to match other elements of the dial. White hands hover over the dial as well. They match small white hands used for subdials. As we have come to know, the Red Lacquer central chronograph hand brings great hints of colour, contrasting here with the overall blue and white aesthetic.
Modern El Primaro 3600 caliber
The dial sign-off is accompanied by an applied Zenith star in the form of the Zenith logo. Below that is the signature “El Primero” script with the frequency of movement. They are the perfect tips for the El Primero 3600 caliber that you can see thanks to the sapphire display on the caseback. The automatic caliber operates at 36,000VPH and offers a 60-hour power reserve. It has a skeletonized rotor with Zenith Star and various brush finishes, adding a visual impact.
This modernized version of Zenith’s automatic columnar chronograph movement allows the red middle hand to move the dial once in just 10 seconds. That hand stands out, so if you activate the chronograph by clicking on the pusher in the top right, it’s hard to miss a flying one on the dial. It’s fun to see the incredible speed of the hands moving, and that’s a great testament to the incredible lineage of the El Primero movement.
He wears a blue dial Zenith Chronomaster original
I placed the clock on my wrist and it felt like I was going home. I love wearing Chronomaster originals because they are comfortable and have spot-on proportions on the wrist. This new model comes standard with a blue leather strap with a butterfly clasp that matches the color of the dial well.
Additionally, Zenith includes a stainless steel three-row oyster style bracelet with folding clasps and security locks. The bracelet is extremely comfortable and features a brushed outer link and a refined central link. The visual glow of the polished mirror finish is fantastic, but you need to add that the central link picks up your fingerprints easily.
The bracelet is very good quality and wearing a watch is an absolute joy. The bracelet is also fairly easy to size thanks to the double screw pins. If Zenith adds a clasp fine-tuning system to the clasp, it makes a great modern bracelet.
As explained in the review of the Black Dial Version, the original Chronomaster case profile feels like an elevated wrist. The rug is mostly lying on the case, so the only part above the wrist is the caseback. This gives me a little space between the rug and my wrist, but this is not an issue for me. It doesn’t affect overall comfort at all.
Final Thoughts on the New Blue Dial Zenith Chronomaster Original
Every time I place the Chronomaster Revival, Chronomaster Original, or Chronomaster Sport on my wrist, the watch reminds me of my great love for Zenith. I mentioned that the black dial version has my name, but there was also this new blue dial version.
As I explained in my review of the Black Dial Model, if you like the Chronomaster Revival and Chronomaster originals, almost every dial variation is when you buy one Zenith-centric collection, as I mentioned before, or even start a Zenith-centric collection.
The original of this new Blue Dial Zenith Chronomaster is no exception. It once again proved how much Zenith’s classic designs adore. As for my favorite of the two dial colours, I love both for a variety of reasons. In an article about the black dial version, I write that it feels like it has always been there since the brand introduced the A386. However, this new blue dial version feels different and is more modern.
I’m not usually the biggest fan of Sunray Dial, but I’m not a purist. If the dial runs properly and fits the design of the watch, I’m everything for it. That’s what I feel with this new blue dial version of Zenith Chronomaster original. It gives the watch a fantastic, stylish presence and offers another great addition to its 10,600 euro lineup. I can’t decide between this and the black dial model, so the former has become another entry in the growing wish list of Zenith Chronomaster models. This is another signal that you need to start realizing that collection.
