Russell Sheldrake
Being a watch collector doesn’t end once you’ve bought a watch. You may have spent months deciding which model to get: 38mm or 40mm, black or white dial, etc. The options are endless, but once you’ve settled on the perfect watch, the journey with it begins. Just like any machine or valuable item, watches need to be looked after from time to time, so make sure you have the right tools, or you could do more harm than good.
All the tasks presented here do not require completion of a WOSTEP 3000 watchmaking course, and are not as expensive as having a watchmaker do the repairs. These tools are intended for watch maintenance, such as cleaning your watch, changing straps, and adjusting bracelets. They also make great gifts for family members who are particular about watches. These tasks can be done by anyone with a steady hand and a little patience. Don’t worry, I’m not going to ask you to do anything that I wouldn’t do myself.
Spring bar tool
This is truly a basic and must-have tool for almost every watch collector who likes to change straps, bracelets and clasps at home. There are two ways to do it. If you want ultimate portability, a pocket-sized tool with interchangeable tips is the best choice, but the double-ended Bergeon 6767F is pretty much the golden ratio when it comes to price/performance. This tool comes with two heads, one forked for removing spring bars and the other pointed for removing push pins or removing spring bars from drilled lugs. It’s the perfect tool to give your watch an endless number of different looks by allowing you to change straps whenever and wherever you want. You don’t need to spend more than $50 to get started.
Screwdriver set
You will find a set of these little screwdrivers on any watchmaker’s work bench. There’s a reason for this – they have many uses when repairing watches. But the main reason you or I need this little jeweler’s screwdriver is to remove those tightly threaded bars or links. A word of warning – this screwdriver can cause small scratches on your watch, so use it with care. It can also break easily if you’re used to the big Phillips head screwdrivers in your toolbox. It also has a second use – tightening the hinges on sunglasses. If you are looking to buy a set of screwdrivers, I recommend the Bergeon ones.
Crown Winder
This might sound a bit niche or even redundant, but if you have a large collection that includes several hand-wound watches, it can be a pretty arduous task to keep them all running. This handy device uses a soft rubber cup to attach to any crown and allows you to easily wind your watch using the handle. And if you think winding a few watches every day isn’t that much of a chore, just ask Hans Wilsdorf. The founder of Rolex famously developed calluses on his fingers and thumbs from winding multiple watches that were tested every day. So, use this to get around that. Again, this time it’s something like model number 31409, which usually sells for around $60.
Bracelet Block
It’s a relatively simple piece of kit – it’s just a plastic cube with a slit in it – but it makes adjusting your bracelet a million times easier. You can slide your bracelet into this black section and work in peace, knowing that your bracelet won’t fall off and that any loose pins won’t fall straight down and roll off your desk, never to be seen again.
Cleaning kit
Wearing a watch is one of the true joys of owning one, but your watch will pick up an incredible amount of dirt and grime, especially if you wear it regularly in hot or harsh environments. While you can get drastic and clean your bracelet in an ultrasonic cleaner (don’t wash the watch body unless you remove the movement), this cleaning kit can help remove even the toughest grime that’s built up in your watch. With cleaning fluid, a soft-bristled brush, and a polishing cloth, this kit is perfect for giving your waterproof timepiece a quick shine. And it’s also a product you can buy directly from us. The AIS Collective Watch Cleaning Kit is available for $62 from the Time+Tide shop.
Excellent storage capacity
This may not sound like much of a tool, but it can go a long way in helping your collection last longer. Keeping your watches in an optimal environment increases the chances that they will be ready when you need them. If you want to keep your automatic perpetual calendar on the correct date, a winder is the way to go. If you are just storing your watch and don’t mind it stopping, it’s important to store it in a soft, dry environment. Don’t be that person who tosses your watch on the bedside table at the end of the day. You spent a long time looking for that watch and now you can’t just treat it casually. Check out Wolf and BezelHold in the Time+Tide shop for a variety of winder and watch box solutions.
