Russell Sheldrake
The appropriateness of quartz watches as an option for “serious” collectors has been hotly debated on forums, blogs, and meetups. “They have no soul,” “they tick,” or “it’s a glorified Apple Watch” are all arguments against quartz that have no basis in anything at all. It’s actually a fascinating technology. Although some of the most famous brands currently make or have made quartz watches in the past, quartz watches were no longer a necessary technology for brand survival in the mid-’70s. Quartz is now a platform for innovation, performance, and craftsmanship that many brands embrace.
First of all, how do you define a quartz watch? Over the past few years, the line between mechanical and quartz has become blurred. Let’s take Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive as an example. It’s a little bit of both. Therefore, to avoid unnecessary comments about my choices, I will classify them as clocks with quartz crystal or microchip timing. In other words, it can be powered by batteries or a spring. Do we all agree? Please don’t @ me.
In short, if you ignore quartz, you are missing out. So, to expand your horological horizons, here is a list of the five most collectible quartz watches.
FP Journe Elegant
It would be remiss not to start with a watch from FP Journe, one of the most popular brands in the holosphere. Who wouldn’t want a Chronometer Blue? Manufacturer’s pedigree aside, the Elegante and its Caliber 1210 are technical masterpieces that push the boundaries of what’s possible in quartz watches. Its biggest feature is standby mode. If the clock does not move for 35 minutes, the hands will stop moving. This is all to save battery life. If something like this happens, you might think that you’ll have to reset the time every time you wear your watch, but thankfully that’s not the case. With the help of electromechanical magic, Caliber 1210 keeps track of time and resets the watch as soon as movement is detected, for example when you lift it from a side table. The motion detector can be seen through the opening at 4 o’clock on the dial. The hands then begin to move, tracing the shortest distance to the correct time. magic! The system provides a battery life of 8 to 10 years with normal use and up to 18 years in standby mode. Give this to your newborn and you won’t have to change batteries until you leave the house.
And I can’t resist mentioning two recent additions to the Elegante line. These are even more collectible than standard products. It’s Gino’s Dream, featured in this year’s Watches and Wonders, and the newly released Blood Red version to celebrate Geneva’s FP Journe restaurant receiving its first Michelin star. Two fun interpretations of this technologically advanced quartz watch. Price: From USD 16,500.
Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date
Long underrated, Rolex watches are rapidly gaining attention, combining the precision of quartz movements with the prestige of Rolex’s iconic day-date. The Oysterquartz Day-Date was introduced in 1977, not only in response to the quartz crisis, but also to counter the emerging trend of one-piece bracelets. Gerald Genta revolutionized sports watches in the early 70s. You’d better assume Rolex wanted a piece of the pie, too. Despite being discontinued in 2003, the Oysterquartz Day-Date remains coveted by collectors due to its relative rarity, unique movement, and integrated bracelet design. This is an important chapter in Rolex history, and one that is unlikely to be repeated. Interestingly, Rolex service centers stock spare parts to maintain the serviceability of Oyster quartz watches, so there is no need to take your Oyster quartz to a shopping center for battery replacement. Price: between 8,000 and 14,000 euros at auction.
Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch
No list about collectible quartz watches would be complete without the absolutely ridiculous success of MoonSwatch. The watch surprised the world when it was launched on March 26, 2022, just days before Switzerland’s annual Watches and Wonders fair. With its bioceramic case and quartz chronograph movement, the MoonSwatch is a great way to get close to the big boy Omega at a fraction of the cost. The case has the same dimensions and shape as the full-fat Moonwatch, is available in multiple color options, and features an amazing high-definition planetary image on the battery cover. If you’re a space geek, this is for you.
However, if you really want it, you’ll have to contend with other space/watch/secondary market pricing fans who want a piece of the Moonswatch pie. Especially if you want a version of Snoopy, a special creation with an adorable cartoon dog that makes a cameo appearance. Pull out your camp chair and get comfortable, and don’t forget your umbrella! Price: $270
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quartz
Let’s be honest, there’s no shortage of Royal Oaks in this world. These have been in production since the early 70’s and have been made in countless references ranging from different sizes, materials, colors and complications. That being said, never in the history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has it been uncollected or sold for an exorbitant price. Despite being created as a response to the quartz crisis, quartz as well as many Royal Oak models with smaller cases, with or without luxurious diamond arrangements, are still available. Many of these quartz references are designed with women in mind, but there are also plenty of 33mm models that are perfect for unisex. But the seemingly stackable Frosted Gold 23mm has recently gained attention for its ability to be worn on multiple wrists at once. These blur the line between watches and jewelry. Price: $34,400.
Citizen Caliber 0100
If you value precision, look no further than Citizen’s Caliber 0100. With an annual tolerance of +1 second per day (yes, you read that right), it is the most accurate clock in the world. They were able to achieve such precision by using a manufacturing technique called LIGA, or lithography, galvanoforming, and abforming. German word meaning lithography, electroplating, molding. This deserves its own article, but I’ll briefly explain the process. A mask (stencil) is created that can be exposed to X-rays, and its “shadow” electroplates the metal material onto the surface. It’s the same process used to make microchips. Creating small parts this way eliminates most tolerance issues. Science is amazing. Collections are all about having the best, and Caliber 0100 is certainly the best in its class. Technically it’s incredible. Price: $8,800.
Patek Philippe Beta 21
These large, chunky television-shaped clocks have been the subject of some curiosity over the years. But when this watch was first introduced, it was a genuine statement of intent from the Swiss watch industry that it wasn’t going to let the quartz crisis go unchecked. Twenty major companies, including Omega, Piaget and Patek Philippe, came together to form the Center Electronique Horlogger (CEH), and after nine years of trial and error, the Beta 21 was born. You can still see these watches today. Bold designs are available from several brands, but Patek is perhaps the most popular. Price: CHF 9,000-15,000 at auction.
