Luke Benedictus
Editor’s note: This article first appeared in Issue 9 of Time+Tide NOW magazine. Issue 9 can be found in both physical and digital formats on the T+T shop, offering further industry insights, inspiring interviews, and of course a complete watch buying guide.
Eight years ago at Baselworld 2016, Chanel did something unexpected. For the first time, they introduced a watch specifically designed for men, but in case you weren’t sure who it was aimed at, they named it “Monsieur de Chanel” to make the point . The fact that Chanel endorsed this piece explicitly as a men’s watch was surprising. That’s because Monsieur de Chanel wasn’t a hairy-chested brutish watch that came in oversized proportions. Rather, it felt like a cleverly designed, slightly futuristic take on a dress watch. Housed in an affordable 40 mm x 10 mm gold case, this is a jumping-hour timepiece with a clear hour display at 6 o’clock and an unusually long 240-degree arc of the retrograde minute hand. did. In fact, what made the watch feel visually masculine was the strict tone of the linear numbers and, unlike many Chanel watches, it did not incorporate any of the brand’s feminine emblems. It was just the facts.
Perhaps the most exciting thing about Monsieur is that it is Chanel’s first complication, further proving that the brand is serious about watchmaking. This possibility has been percolating since 1993, when Chanel acquired Swiss manufacturer G&F Chatelain. The acquisition gave the brand the technical scope to create its own watches from scratch, and Monsieur capitalized on that potential by equipping it with the Caliber 1, Chanel’s first ever in-house movement. Developed in collaboration with acclaimed independent Swiss watchmaker Romain Gauthier, it took over five years to develop. However, the time and effort required was obvious. This construction was simply beautiful, featuring a double-barreled hand-wound movement treated with a smooth anthracite finish. Here is a watch that once again proves that the derogatory term “fashion watch” is completely unnecessary.
Things quickly evolved into a sportier direction for the 2021 Superleggera edition. “Superleggera” means “ultralight” in Italian, but it is also the name of Carrozzeria Touring Superleggera, the automotive design company famous for creating the Aston Martin DB5 and Alfa. Romeo 8C etc. By choosing this name, Chanel put its automotive inspiration on the map, an attitude reflected in the speedometer-like appearance of the dial. Certain elements of the original Monsieur were left intact. Visible through a transparent sapphire crystal, the hand-wound Caliber 1 keeps ticking to provide a 72-hour power reserve. The dial layout was similar, with the same jumping hour aperture, retrograde minute display, and small central seconds counter. However, the overall feel of this watch was noticeably different, with a matte black ceramic and steel case and a black nickel guilloché dial with red accents. The original shiny leather strap has been replaced with a more practical alternative in the form of a black nylon strap with red calfskin lining. Here is the dynamic forward movement of the elegant Monsieur.
The Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Limited Edition continues in the same direction, explains Arnaud Chastaing, Director of Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio. “With a durable black ceramic case and bezel, a matte black guilloché dial, and a black nylon strap with black calfskin lining and trim, this design features minimalist elegance. It’s highlighted with touches of gold,” he says. . “All of this underlines the powerful design of the 2024 collection’s unique pieces, which are inspired by the automotive world, true to their history.” We’ll get back to that in a moment, so notice the word “history.” please.
Like its predecessor, the 42mm watch is housed in a steel case wrapped in black matte ceramic. The main evolution from the previous Superleggera is the increased proportion of black throughout the design. But as you move further into the dark side, things change more than you expected. The black-on-black appearance further enhances the sense of texture. It emphasizes the concentric circles within the small seconds counter and the Clous de Paris hobnail pattern on the dial, which resonates with the nylon strap. It also highlights the slightly openwork nature of the dial, offering a glimpse of the amazing movement inside.
Given the Monsieur de Chanel label, it might be necessary to touch on the increasingly thorny subject of gender. Today, it’s fashionable for brands and commentators alike to pay lip service to the idea that all watches are unisex. For example, Zenith announced in 2022 that it would remove gender-based search functionality from its website and instead group watches by case size. In this frustrating situation, it’s interesting to see the Chanel Monsieur line going in a different direction.
Once again, Chanel as a brand has always set its own gender agenda. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel is famous for incorporating masculine elements into her designs for women to great success. She popularized jersey fabric (previously reserved for men’s underwear), dressed chic women in Breton sailors’ striped jumpers, and transformed men’s tweed into feminine jackets. In other words, Chanel has always been willing to transcend gender in its own way.
The Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition may also be worth considering as an evolution of the brand’s first watch, which is happily embraced by men. When J12 was introduced in 2000, the late Jacques Elle, Chanel’s long-time artistic director, explained: I wanted a timeless, shiny black, unbreakable watch that reminded me of some kind of classic automobile. ”
The new Superleggera Intense Black takes that brief and steps on the gas. It’s black (albeit matte rather than glossy), durable thanks to its ceramic shell, and happily wears its automotive connotations. As the name suggests, he’s also unapologetically masculine, but that’s mostly fine. There’s no need to prefix masculinity with the word “toxic.”
