Borna Boschunjak
The news that a beloved but lost watch brand is back to life is not an unusual sight in the watch industry. It’s an easy way for new owners to bring immediate legitimacy and recognition despite the hiatus, whether large conglomerates like Breitling, which buy the Universal Geneva or galette brand, or independents like Guillaume Ridet, to choose a cult classic like Nibada Glenchen or Excelsior Park. But it is a double-edged sword. It can all be downhill soon, especially in the eyes of dedicated collectors, if they don’t do justice to them.
A safer, but certainly more difficult alternative is to try and revive a relatively unknown brand. Not only will it make it easier to influence future designs, it will also create conspiracies among collecting communities who want to know more. That’s the path Simon Ryan is taking – perhaps better known for his online Monica Escapement 24 – he will resume Moncoe with the new Model 01.
Dial
Unlike most of the vintage examples you come across, the Model 01 is not a chronograph. Instead, Ryan chose a simple, three-person lattice with a date layout above the wave dial of dimensions. The Obelisque handset is very simple, with a low hand of seconds and gets an octagonal tip. But for me, the real treat of the dial is the solid block of Lume used for the index. For multipurpose sports watches, it’s a great way to ensure that the dials are readable after dark without compromising on the appearance, and I’m more and more happy to see the brands using them.
It is also commendable that Ryan didn’t go overboard via text. The simple Moncot logo and text is about 12 text (my minimalist would further reduce the full name). The water resistance rating matches the highlight of Baby Blue at 6 o’clock out of the four colour variants.
case
It’s a bit of a flying around, but the ideal dimensions of the modern integrated bracelet sports watch seem to settle at almost 39mm. Moncoe matches it with the Model 01 and combines it with a 10.2mm thick and a 44.7mm lug-to-lug. What’s particularly impressive is the previous dimension, as the Model 01 doubles the normal 100 meters water resistance rating that is used to with this style of watch. The steel case ends as expected from a watch of this style, with the brushing dominating its flat surface and accentuated by a wide, refined facet.
bracelet
Well, I said in the last paragraph that I’m hinting at an integrated bracelet watch, but the Model 01 is not actually a true example. If you look closely at the top of the lug, you will notice a cut line that reveals the shape of the removable end link. Monco makes use of this with leather strap options at launch, but I think this model looks best on a bracelet. The entire design appears to be centered around this integrated aesthetic.
And as far as the bracelet goes, its H-link design is very wide and refined facets down the shoulders to get a very cool look and finishes with a dive style folding clasp. Despite the lack of a design, this is my preferred type of clasp over butterflies as it allows for fine tuning. That being said, I’ve seen several brands bring micro-adjustable butterfly clasps so if Monco chooses to upgrade with the next iteration, I won’t be offended.
Movement
Ryan wants to continue his 1960s scheming of manually wrapped Valge chronographs. Ryan chose the Sellita SW210 to power the Model 01. To be honest, considering it’s a sports watch, I would have wanted this watch to be automatically, but I’m grateful for the thinness that is likely to contribute to the lack of a winding rotor. With a 42-hour power reserve and a 4Hz beat rate, this is the standard specification set for the 2025 entry-level Swiss movement.
Monco Model 01 Price and Availability
The Monco Model 01 will be released on Kickstarter on May 30th, and the campaign will end on June 15th. Visit Monceauwatches.com to sign up for priority updates prior to launching Model 01 and see details of the Kickstarter campaign and early bird discounts available when the pre-order window opens. Price: £599 (Early Bird, 48 hours of release only), £679 (kickstarter price, 25% off RRP)
Brand Monco Model 01 Case Dimensions 39mm(d) x 10.2mm
It was created in cooperation with Monco. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with the editorial policy.
