Russell Sheldrake
As a brand, Ming stands out for his designs and fearless attitude to try new things, and 57.04 Iris continues this brave trend. The brand’s first Destol, the 5th generation design language, and the 8th birthday are all wrapped in this fantastic watch that brings a little sci-fi to your wrist without stomping on the mark. This watch has many details because it is obsessed, but that’s not new for the Ming. Whether you’re creating a fascinating dial, bringing the concept of Omakase to the world of watches, Ming has always been minding the most detailed. Now, the next chapter of Ming features the latest generation of design languages, setting the stage for what you can expect in the coming years.
case
The crucial feature of this new fifth generation design language from Ming is its stainless steel case, and more precisely the lug. These stepped rugs come in three layers, which, according to the brand, draw inspiration from Art Deco. To create this stunning effect, the rug is constructed from nine separate pieces, each surface can undergo a different finishing treatment. With a sophisticated top and satin brush sides, these are not your everyday rugs. They are here to make a statement. As brands move beyond rug designs, they can greatly improve the watch. It is often overlooked that it is one of the areas like clasps, but with ample care and attention, as we did here, all the difference can be made.
The stepped rug continues the gradual theme here, with concave bezels stepping through the case and flowing into these rugs in a rather satisfying way. The concave bezel is also great for playing with light, giving it an optical illusion of dancing on the edge of the watch. With a watch like this, everything else is amplified. Many watch brands are getting smaller, but Ming is under pressure from collectors to go back to what many consider to be the size of the watch prototype, so the new 57.04 Iris measures 40mm readings. These flashy lugs offer 47.8mm lug-to-lug measurements, which means they fit well on most wrists. Especially considering that these lugs do not protrude past the bottom of the case.
Speaking of casebacks, there is a small sapphire crystal, leaving just the space left to hold the small concave ring in place. The ultimate notable feature of this case is the large crown and its strange position. This is the Destol Watch – in fact, the brand’s first left hand drive model – and its crown is very large as it holds the monopusher of the watch’s chronograph. A fun and frequent combination, this is another feature that will throw away a bit of this watch and give it a little more depth.
Dial
What I’m trying to do with this watch is to define the color of the dial. This is because every time you move it, the dial shifts thanks to this versatility coating that covers it. This kaleidoscope coating is emphasized by the shape of this dial, and its deep side gives an extra angle for light to bounce back, completely complementing its concave bezel. The only confusion this dial faces is the 6 Matte Black Chronograph Minutes Counter Disc, which acts as the visual anchor of the dial, in contrast to its shiny, changing nature. No other furniture or markings apply to the dial. Rather, in a typical ring, the floating index is engraved on the bottom of the crystal and filled with the room.
To read the time, I have a fairly minimal hand with a long black chopped hand with a white room around the boundary and a short time hand that is completely filled in the room. The chronograph seconds hand is also attached to the center, enjoying the beauty and minimalism of the monopusher chronograph, but here Ming took that concept to the next level and removed the track to read the time accurately. This makes this complexity more conceptual than functionality, but it is still very substantial.
Movement
Seen through the massive display caseback mentioned above, there is a custom-made movement produced by Ming in collaboration with Sellita. Ming’s cal. The SW562.M1 is a manually found monopusher that Cerata has specifically changed to the exact specifications of Ming, allowing this highly popular complication to be created at an accessible price. The idea of ​​destroying this was to allow for a larger and easier manipulated crown without the risk of digging behind the wearer’s hands. Ming also specified that the movement must have three-quarter quarter plates coated 4N, sitting on top of the movement. In a fulfilling state, this movement should last about 60 hours, but no power reserve number is given when the chronograph is running.
strap
At last year’s Geneva Watch Days, Min revealed alongside the stable, a fantastic tantalum bracelet that can be attached to one of the watches. The bracelet option here is made with the same design as the bracelet, but is made from steel. With its liquid, 5 link design, this is a bracelet that melts into your wrist when you wear it, adding a real touch of class to such a watch, reminding you of the supply of the bracelet FP Journe with several models.
This watch also comes with anthracite goat leather straps. It is very supple on the touch and comes with a tuck buckle that allows you to hide the strap’s tail underneath itself. Of course, both of these are easily replaced by using a quick release spring bar, but for me, this watch is intended to be worn on a bracelet.
verdict
This is not a watch that I see (or see) every day, especially since I only make 100 of them. But it’s great that Ming was able to combine so many different design elements into something that feels incredibly cohesive at the same time. The dial is magic and attracts you like any other, and thanks to its tricky, color-changing nature, it gives you a different look every time you look at your wrist. I can’t wait to see how Ming advances this dial treatment and how these flashy rugs go. Is this a watch that everyone can live with? Probably not. But it’s a watch that everyone can admire and appreciate, especially for this price.
Ming 57.04 Iris Price and Availability
The new Ming 57.04 Iris is limited to just 100 units and is currently available through the brand’s website and its retail partners. Price: CHF 6,250
Brand Ming Model 57.04 IRIS Case Dimensions 40mm(D) x 11.85mm(T) x 47.8mm(LTL) Case Material Stainless Steel Water Resistance
Anthracite goat leather, tuck buckle movement ming cal. SW562.M1, jointly developed with Selata, manual winding power reserve 60 hours functioning time, several minutes, monopusher chronograph availability limited to 100 pieces Price CHF 6,250
