Fergus Nash
Calling Circula a microbrand feels a bit disrespectful given its history, but its unique design and contemporary approach to brand identity are truly in line with that of a much younger company. First founded in 1955 in the Black Forest region of Germany by Heinz Huber, who had run a watch and jewelry wholesale business since 1926, the Circula brand was reinvigorated in 2018 by his grandson Cornelius Huber. A recent addition to the catalogue is the expansion of the hugely popular dive watch line, the Circula Aqua Sport GMT.
Incident
Some of Circula’s funkiest designs come from the skin divers of the 1970s, and the Circula Aquasport GMT’s overall look is derived from there. The shape is halfway between a traditional lug and cushion case, with a circular brushed front and polished chamfers that give it a premium feel. The screw-down crown, which secures the case’s 200m water resistance, is colored and features a luminous logo, showing that no expense has been spared on the details of this watch.
We seem to be living in a golden age of wearability, with just the right width-to-length ratio that gives it presence on the wrist without the discomfort of a large case. The Circula AquaSport GMT is no exception, its 40mm diameter is a slight increase from its vintage precision, but the lug-to-lug length is kept in check at 46mm. The overall thickness, including the domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, is a modest 13.4mm.
Dial
Circula dials are always great, and the AquaSport GMT lives up to that expectation with its attention to detail. The GMT hand is fairly short and doesn’t compete with the other three hands. The 24-hour markers are recessed into their own ring. The date display sits above the 6 o’clock marker, nicely beveled and out of the way of other elements. The hour markers themselves have a three-dimensional look, as they are applied and then generously coated with Super-LumiNova. The lume makes the markers, hands, and bezel markings glow and shine, and is one of the big selling points of the watch. The 48-click bezel is protected by a sapphire insert, which is scratch-resistant and has a glossy finish reminiscent of vintage Bakelite and acrylic.
The Circula AquaSport GMT is available in two color schemes. The first is a dark, versatile anthracite gray with silver accents and parchment-colored lume. The sunburst finish on the dial adds depth to the gray color, which changes dramatically depending on the angle. The second is a matte navy blue with a bright orange glow around the hour markers and second hand. This sporty option is completed with a two-tone bezel insert that also luminesces in the blue, creating a very impressive light show at night.
strap
The Circula AquaSport GMT comes standard with a tropical rubber strap in either black or blue to match the color of the watch. For an extra 100 euros you can order a beads-of-rice style bracelet with fitted end links for a dressier look. Both have quick release spring bars so are super easy to change. If you’re looking for a unique rubber, NATO or leather strap, the 20mm lug width means your options are nearly endless.
motion
Powering the AquaSport GMT is the Sellita caliber SW330-2. This is one of Sellita’s higher-end movements and has some very impressive specs beyond the GMT complication. Circula has chosen the top-grade SW330-2, which means it has a Glucydur balance wheel and an average daily deviation of +/- 4 seconds. While it’s not an official COSC certified chronometer, you can get close without spending a lot of money. It displays a smooth 4Hz sweep and also has a power reserve of 56 hours.
Circula AquaSport GMT price and availability:
The Circula AquaSport GMT can be ordered from the Circula website with free shipping worldwide. Price: 1,299 Euros / 1,150 USD
Brand Circula Model AquaSport GMT Case size 40mm x 46mm x 13.4mm Case material Stainless steel Water resistance 200m Crystal Sapphire with anti-reflective coating Dial Anthracite or blue Lug width 20mm Strap Tropic rubber Movement Sellita SW330-2 Power reserve 56 hours Availability Available now Price €1,299 / US$1,150