Jamie Weiss
Micro Mil-Spec has traditionally not made many of its watches available to the public. Founded in 2019 as a boutique manufacturer of military-focused bespoke watches, the Norwegian brand has primarily produced custom orders for various international military branches, including the Norwegian Heimevelnet, the U.S. Space Force, and the French Navy’s Najours de Combat. Micro Mil-Spec’s latest creation, the Mil-Graph, is the first chronograph watch available to the public (and the second chronograph the brand has produced, following the unique “Golden Boy” piece commissioned by Norwegian soccer player Erling Haaland). It’s also the first watch to combine GMT and chronograph complications, making it one of the most interesting designs to date.
Micromilspec may be a relatively young brand, but they have developed a distinctive common case design with angular sides and a pedestal-like bezel over the lugs. These sharp features give it a practical, yet attractive look, and so does the Milgraph. And like most of Micromilspec’s products, the Milgraph features a microblasted grade 5 titanium case. What sets it apart from previous models is the bezel design, which features a unique “QuadGrip” design with four deep indentations for easier operation with gloves on, emphasizing its mil-spec intent (it’s in the name, right?). This dive-style bezel indicates its diver’s watch intent, even though the watch is water resistant to “only” 100m.
The crown and pushers are mounted on the left side, which Micromilspec explains “enhances mobility and comfort, and minimizes abrasion to skin when worn directly on the skin, and to fabric when worn on the outside.” A bit pretentious? Sure, but it looks cool, so who cares. Speaking of cool, I love how the Milgraph chronograph pushers are seamlessly integrated into the side of the case. It’s super slim. As with other Micromilspec models, the screw-down caseback also has a dedicated space for custom engraving. At 42mm wide, 15mm thick, and 50.3mm lug-to-lug, it’s not a small watch by any means, but that’s not surprising given its rugged, masculine nature.
The Micro Mil-Spec Milgraph dial has a practical matte black finish with the model name printed in white and orange, lending it a military vibe. Skeletonized hands fly across the dial, the GMT hand features an orange tip, and chunky skeletonized hour and minute hands are filled with Super-LumiNova. The chapter ring features a GMT scale, flanked by luminous fencepost indexes. What I like, although some may dislike it, is that the chronograph hour and minute subdials, as well as the small seconds indicator, all have small labels so there is no confusion as to which is which. This may not be an issue for a seasoned WIS, but it may be helpful for the average operator, especially considering the Destroy Design of this watch.
The Micromilspec Milgraph is available with three different straps: a chunky rubber or leather strap with titanium hardware, or a full titanium bracelet with a butterfly clasp. Strictly speaking, these strap options are not one piece, but the Milgraph’s lug design makes them look very one piece. At launch, only rubber is available.
Powering this Stealth Operator is a La Joux-Perret L121 with a 60-hour power reserve and column wheel. Previous Micro milspec models almost exclusively used the Sellita SW200-1, so this La Joux-Perret movement is a welcome step up in terms of quality; again, no corners were cut. (The aforementioned Erling Haaland creation boasts a fancier Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier VMF 3022/12, but that watch doesn’t feature a GMT hand and is a one-of-a-kind, so the Milgraph can’t be judged on the same standards.)
Micromilspec explains that the Milgraph was designed to conquer land, sea, and air, and I have to admit, I was enthralled. I think it’s a beautiful watch. I love how easy the dial is to read. I appreciate the purposeful construction of the case and bezel. I also love that the brand chose the La Joux-Perret caliber.
Micromilspec Milgraph Pricing and Availability
The Micromilspec Milgraph is available now at Micromilspec’s online boutique, with limited availability of 50 units per year. Price: $3,850 USD
Brand Micromilspec Model Milgraph Case Size 42mm (D) x 15mm (T) x 50.3mm (LTL) Case Material Grade 5 Titanium Water Resistance 100m Crystal Sapphire Dial Matte black, GMT chapter ring, Super-LumiNova indexes and hands Strap Rubber or leather strap with titanium pin buckle, or titanium bracelet Movement La Joux-Perret L121, automatic Power Reserve 60 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, GMT, timing bezel Availability Currently, limited to 50 pieces per year Price US$3,850
