When it comes to watchmaking, Louis Vuitton is best known for its Tambourt models. These integrated bracelet models were reinvented in 2023 and took advantage of the 2011 purchase of the La Fabrique Du Temps. While some hardcore watch fans have taken time to embrace the brand as a watchmaker, it has become difficult to ignore the product. Now, Louis Vuitton is “all-in” with a trio of fascinating, high-end watchmaking novelties.
Certainly, when Louis Vuitton announced his intention to compete in the highest level of watchmaking, I was skeptical. The brand is famous for its bags, luggage and fashion accessories. So, are watches ranked as serious watches or as post-fashion ideas? Tambour and Escale have erased their doubts. Certainly, people can have problems with different styling choices, but the movement and finishing are well executed. Sporadicated, the brand dips the toes into high watchmaking. Three new examples of this are the subject of today’s article.
Tambour Bushido Automata
The first example of Louis Vuitton’s high-end watchmaking is the Tambourg Bucide Automata. This is a stunning example of mechanical watchmaking and Metier’s art, which requires hundreds of hours of creation. Functionally, this 46.8mm x 14.4mm 18k pink gold watch features jump time, retrograde minutes and power reserve indicator.
It uses the brand’s in-house LV 525 caliber, letter movement with 100 hours of power reserve and 50 gems. La Fabrique Du Temps assembles 426 components over 180 hours to create the final product.
Wild Automation and Beautiful Artwork
Samurai, a warrior with a powerful moral norm known as Bushido, influenced this watch. In addition to their code, the samurai appreciated art. This provided an iconography of this intricate work of art. The result was a clock with five automated movements over 16 seconds. Initially, the 2 o’clock button will start automating. The gold yokai on the helmet will spin and the jump hour display will appear. Next, the katana sword in the bottom left moves, showing the minutes of the retrograde display. The mask then changes its representation when the right eye changes from a flower with round petals to a pointy version. The jaw is rediscovered in kanji, then tightened again. Finally, the red sun above Mt. Fuji shows the relative power reserve remaining within the motion.
Enamel and sculpture
Louis Vuitton said the enamelization of the case would require more than 200 hours of work. It depicts the journey of a samurai across Japan. Highly expensive watchmaking evidence is impossible to overlook. Without some work, there will be no surfaces.
For example, the mask is hand carved and coated with two shades of red enamel. The left eye uses cloisonné enamel for the iris, and gold and pyrone enamel for the students. The sicolos, or cowlings around the neck, use black and red enamels and show the pattern of Louis Vuitton’s symbol. Gold backgrounds are produced using Paillon née Enamel Technike, combining pink enamel, silver leaves and other enamels. Even Mt. Fuji uses cloisonné enamel with gold thread to create a decisive boundary for the snow. 120 hours of work is dedicated to the enamelization process.
Watchmakers devote more than 140 hours to sculpture. It is on display throughout Tambul Bushid and includes a crown and a pusher. Key examples include elements on the dial, such as the katana handle, rose gold rokai, and knot under the chin. The caseback is not ignored and features Perle and Cote de Genève finishes. Overall, this watch is a great achievement and feels like a museum piece.
Tambour Taiko Galactique
The next most innovative watchmaking experience is Tambour’s Taiko Galatic. This piece is monitored by a blue rubber strap of 46.7mm x 14.6mm titanium and white gold. It’s a one-minute repeater with three cathedral gongs that ring time, quarter, and minutes. Central Hour and Minute Hand display time.
High-quality watchmaking goes to space
Louis Vuitton previously celebrated his journey to space and revisited the subject at Tambour Tyco Galactic. This time, the repeater will ring the time and also display a series of seven animations. La Fabrique Du Temps is responsible for the overall production of this piece, including a bespoke 46 Jewel LFT AU14.02 manual winding movement. It has 459 components, requires 220 hours of assembly and 100 hours of power reserve. The repeater is operated via a side-mounted 18k white gold sliding lever with gradient sapphire and topaz.
Rich enamel work and sculpture
Like Bushido, Taiko Galactique features important enamel and sculpture work. Over 300 hours! You can see techniques such as the Grand Feu Enamel, Paillon né Enamel, miniature enamel, sculpture, and Champlevé Enamel. The dial tells the story of astronauts moving through space to try to plant a Louis Vuitton flag on the moon.
Slide the lever and you’ll hear a small repeater. It also starts the animation sequence. The astronauts begin to move, the astronauts rise, and the various features of the satellite come to life. The stars sway and the sun rotates. Magically, all these actions occur at different rotation speeds. This is a challenge for watchmakers.
Escale En Amazony Pocket Watch
The final high-watchmaking is on one of my favorite forms: a pocket watch! This 50mm x 19mm 18k white gold piece is a pretty spectacular sight. It is also the most complex and sophisticated watch made by Louis Vuitton. It includes litigation, artistry and the production of movements. This piece took over 1,000 hours (2.5 years) to complete! It also comes with a custom-made leather bag and an exotic leather-covered trunk.
Incredible LFT AU14.03 caliber
La Fabrique Du Temps has created a new 72 Jewel Movement, LFT AU14.03, for Amazonie’s Escale. This manual finding caliber features a tour byoon with seven animations. There are also fine repeaters with Cathedral Gongs, which announce times, quarters and minutes. It has 555 components and takes 500 hours to assemble. Impressively, the components have 646 angles, all hand-washed. Functionally, the LFT AU14.03 boasts an 8-day power reserve. Also note that the blue hands are placed on the side of movement – this is soon. Visually, this movement reminds us of those from antique pocket watches due to the vast number of bridges. That’s beautiful.
Plus sculpture and enamel
The movement is shocking, but the dial and case are equally praiseworthy. The artisans worked together in 31 colors beyond miniature and pyrone enamel techniques to create the Amazon Jungle scene. The latter uses gold leaf to create small delicate logo flowers on the jungle floor. For the first time, the brand has used enamel on the underside of the sapphire glass to create a 3D effect. Animals and small LV trunks each show the engraved details. Some of the trunks and other parts took over 140 hours to produce. Finally, this case demonstrates manufacturing capabilities in Amazon sculptures. It also contains 60 gems, including emeralds, acupoints, tourmaline and yellow sapphire.
More animations
Escale En Amazony pocket watches have 7 animations and 15 moving components on the dial. Slide the flat lever at the bottom of the case to begin gongs and activity. Trunks slide open to reveal Louis Vuitton flowers. The animal notices this and starts moving. The parrot’s head spins, the snake’s head and tail shake, and the monkey changes his gaze. The gold rose compass rotates. Again, all of these movements occur at different speeds. The colours combined with incredible details make this a work of art.
High-quality watchmaking, summary
These three high watchmaking novelties from Louis Vuitton are exclusive works. They are not made for everyday consumption, but show the outermost features of La Fabrique Du Temps manufacturing. I think they are beautiful and mechanically attractive. My only hope is to see them firsthand at some point.
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