One of the perks of being a writer in this industry is the opportunity to wear wonderful and sometimes exquisite watches. It doesn’t necessarily have to be an expensive watch to make an impact. For example, I remember trying out the new Swatch What If Break Free collection a few months ago. Even though it’s far from a luxury watch, it still feels very special, and that’s what matters. But when I get to wear a watch from a brand I love, like Breguet, it feels special. This time, we will introduce the stainless steel Type XX Chronograph 2067, which was released in 2023 and became a hot topic.
Breguet Type XX
The Breguet Type XX was and still is a watch that I respect. I frequently looked at the previous generation, the Ref. 3800 to be exact. Because it’s one of the great flyback chronographs from the mid-1990s that I’ve seen in collected catalogs and watch magazines. It was available in two main versions: Aéronavale and Transatlantique (reference 3820). The latter had a date window and a brushed bezel, while the Aerona Vert had no date display and a polished bezel. A Lemania-based flyback chronograph movement powers both. In later years, Breguet introduced the Type XXI and XXII models, which differed in size and dial specification. I was only interested in type XX references. The 3800 was produced from 1995 to 2018 (until 2020 for the reference 3820). That was quite a long stint in the same model!
In 2023, Breguet unveiled the new Type XX and Type 20 models at a major event in Paris. These watches are based on Breguet’s traditional creations, with beautiful elements from the past, but also with modern components.
Comments on the Modern Type XX Chronograph 2067
Criticisms regarding the date window, “Swiss Made” printing and cut-off numerals did not go unnoticed. This year, Breguet introduced a new version in rose gold. I reviewed it and after wearing it for a while, I was mild about the date aperture and cut-off numbers. Not only did some people notice this lack of criticism, but I was also a little surprised at my own mildness. Did it not bother you as much as it did when you first saw it in 2023? It was a “check yourself” moment, so I requested the steel Breguet Type XX for a more detailed review. I thought, “Let’s wear it for a month and see what opinions (both positive and negative) still stand.” And that’s exactly what I did.
After about a month, it’s time to write down my conclusions about this Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067. As you can see in the photo, I requested a strap for the Type XX instead of a steel bracelet. That combination doesn’t work for me.
Only Watch 2021
First of all, my first impressions of the 2023 Type XX were not very positive. I still believe that the best modern Type XX watch is the one made by Breguet for the Only Watches 2021 auction. The watch was (almost) exquisite and sold for CHF 250,000. You can imagine the heat Breguet will receive from buyers when it brings back the 2021 version of the Only Watch, which will be the best modern version yet. At least Breguet could have come up with something slightly closer to that than what we got in 2023. However, the company did not do so, and the only Type XX currently available is the Chronograph 2067.
I wore the Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067 for a month.
I’ve been wearing the Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067 almost every day for a month. Only a few times I thought about wearing something else, but then I often went back to Type XX. The diameter of this watch is 42mm, the same as my beloved Omega Speedmaster Professional. Normally I’m fine with that number, and I’m not one of the “diameter police” who oppose anything over 39mm. I like to try something out based on spec sheets before shooting it down. The 14.1mm thickness of the Type XX is not an issue for me.
That said, the Breguet Type XX feels large and looks much larger than the 42mm. This may also be due to the fact that the bezel diameter is 42mm, compared to 39.7mm on the Moonwatch. The Type XX wears large on my 18 cm wrist and can handle larger watches such as the Seamaster Ploprof and 44 mm Panerai models. It wasn’t a reason to take the watch off or think it didn’t fit my wrist (I also always check in the mirror how the watch looks on me from a different perspective). However, I don’t always enjoy it because the watch is always prominent and noticeable on my wrist. I concluded that the Type XX was not suitable for me as an everyday watch (like my Ploprof, for example). Thankfully, I own multiple watches, so this isn’t an issue.
Not all watches need to be worn every day
This Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067 is a watch you’ll want to wear. You have to feel like wearing a bigger watch. But the same goes for the (very) small watches I own, even those up to 32.5mm. This Breguet 2067 is not a watch for every occasion or mood, but I think the 39.5 mm diameter of the previous Ref. 3800 is more suitable for everyday use. Now, getting to the main point, the 3800 is slightly thicker at 14.6mm.
However, this is tricky. I am enjoying wearing my current Breguet Type XX. If I didn’t like it, I wouldn’t have worn it this long. That doesn’t make sense. Breguet provided some NATO straps to use with this watch, but I don’t like NATO straps so I didn’t wear them. However, it looks good.
What I like about the Type XX Chronograph 2067 over the 38xx series is the shape of the lugs and the large polished facets on the lugs. It reminds me of the lugs on the early Type XX references and looks very elegant.
date window
My biggest concern beforehand wasn’t the size. Rather, it was the date aperture and the cut-off digits with the large-eye dial layout. The feedback on them was sometimes painful to watch. I agree that the watch would have looked better without the date window, and I will always stand by that. That way, the number 5, which is now randomly cut out, could have been preserved. I didn’t notice it for a second while wearing this watch. When I took the watch off and took a closer look, I just thought it would have been better if it didn’t have a date. However, I had no problems with my wrist. I’m so focused on looking at the alpha hand when checking the time that I only notice the date when I’m actively looking for it.
Breguet Type XX Ref. 2988 (circa 1967) — Image: Philips
We like that the Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067 has several design elements reminiscent of vintage models, such as the 1960s Ref. 2998. The edges of the lugs are faceted, have a faux patina (yes, I like this), and a bi-directional bezel with numbers engraved using the old typography with the 6 and 9 open. Ultimately, the vintage look is also what I like. I really liked Type XX from Only Watch 2021 Auction. And of course, as a chronograph enthusiast, I love experimenting with the flyback feature. This high-beat (5Hz) chronograph movement has a column wheel and consists of 350 parts. As I wrote in the 2023 introductory article, Breguet has eliminated the jerky feel that is common with chronographs. The chronograph starts immediately without an initial jump from the central seconds hand.
My thoughts on the Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067
As I mentioned earlier, I have been wearing this watch almost every day since I received it. And people often ask me for my opinion, especially about date windows. As described, the date and “Swiss Made” printing did not bother me while wearing the watch. But I understand their concerns, as I was also concerned when it was first released and when I saw pictures of the watch on my 32-inch screen at work. I have it on my face, but not on my wrists. “The date doesn’t matter,” I replied. There are some things I feel more strongly about.
Let’s start with the quick release system on the strap. The underside of the strap has a pusher that releases the strap from the spring bar. It’s a convenient and easy-to-use system. When using Breguet’s strap and bracelet options, no tools are required as the spring bar always stays in place. If you want to install a third-party strap, just remove the spring bar. So far, so good.
However, while I was traveling and was putting the watch in my pouch, I noticed that part of the strap had come off. what happened? When I folded the strap under the case to put the watch in the pouch, I quickly found that the case back touched the quick-release button and the strap detached from the spring bar. This has happened to me several times, but at least I know the cause. A mechanism with a lever that you pull with your fingernail to release the strap from the spring bar is better. Of course, using a third-party strap will solve this problem.
brings noise
Anyway, another thing that raised some eyebrows was the noise the Breguet Type XX makes. I’m not talking about the soothing sound of 36,000 vibrations per hour, I’m talking about rotor noise. Some movements are slightly noisier than others, but I didn’t expect the Breguet Type XX’s caliber 728 to be so “present.” Even if you touch the watch, you will feel a slight vibration. This is not an unusual phenomenon as it also occurs in other watches with automatic movements. But I didn’t expect the Breguet Type XX to be so loud.
This may be caused by the bearing system inside the watch. It’s possible that only my XX type is affected. Either way, it’s worth mentioning here. For comparison, I also find the current Omega Seamaster 300M to be a little too noisy, but the Breguet Type XX I have here was slightly noisier. I mainly use hand-wound watches, but I’ve noticed that automatic watches often make rotor noise, and I often feel vibrations when I tap the windshield. On the other hand, my Rolex watch (caliber 31xx) is quiet, as is my gold Omega Globemaster with caliber 8900.
But it sounds nice!
Other than the two criticisms mentioned above, the Breguet Type XX is certainly a good-looking watch. I don’t often wear a loan for that long, not only because the loan term is usually less than a month, but also because the watch is not my choice. After wearing the rental item for a few days, I return to the watch in my collection. Notable exceptions were the Speedmaster in white (Canopus) gold, the Globemaster in rose (Sedona) gold, the TAG Heuer Glassbox “Golden Panda” and, way back in the day, the Breguet Classique 5157. And now this Breguet Type XX is the only non-gold watch on its list.
Would you spend 20,800 euros on a Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067? There are two answers. To me this is a lot of money, so if you’re going to spend that much on a watch, regardless of brand or model, you have to choose wisely. This means thinking about the watches you already have in your collection, how this will fit in, and also what you’re looking for. So, in this case, I would rather spend 20,000 euros on the Breguet Classique 5157, which has been on my list for a long time.
To answer your question from a different perspective, if you don’t have financial constraints and are looking for another chronograph (yet), the Breguet Type XX 2067 should be on your list. I would most likely buy the rose gold version if I could, but this steel model is just as attractive as the photos show.
An easy solution to my interest in the Breguet Type XX would be to get a used Reference 3800, but I prefer the case, dial, and bezel of the new Type XX Chronograph 2067. So, going back to what I wrote above, I have hope. Breguet is set to unveil a further variation of the modern Type XX, close to the Only Watch 2021 edition with a 38.3mm case. Add a new movement and a black dial instead of brown and it will break the internet.
