Let’s try out the well-made Typsim 200M.

Acrylic crystal, aged lume, gold leaf dial. These are the elements of a vintage dive watch. But the Typsim 200M is anything but old. In fact, it’s something entirely new, a welcome addition of true horological nostalgia to a world of fake watches that only superficially represent the past. Typsim’s 200M is half homage to the first dive watches, half modern tool, and it’s as beautiful as it is functional. With incredible attention to detail and a love of microbrands, there’s no reason not to love it.

Typsim (pronounced teep-shim) is an American microbrand from the Pacific Northwest. I’m a writer in this industry, but some brands go unnoticed until they pop up unexpectedly. I ran into Typsim and its founder Matthew Zinski at the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco this year (yet another reason to attend events like this). He had a few clearly vintage-inspired dive watches on a small table. I was fascinated by their resemblance to a certain high-end luxury watch brand’s “first dive watch.” A variation of this dive watch debuted last year in collaboration with Swatch. But Typsim’s Dive Watch 200M is unique in its own way, and that becomes more and more apparent the more I spend time looking at it. After seeing the watch in San Francisco, I knew I had to get one for review, and Zinski was happy to oblige.

Origins and design of the Typsim 200M

Zinski explained to me that the 200M was born out of a desire to create the first diver’s watch for today. With that goal in mind, there are, of course, cosmetic similarities to the first pre-skin diver watches that didn’t go very deep. But like a skilled tightrope walker, Zinski walks the fine line between neo-vintage and timeless.

While other dive watches use triangular or rectangular indexes, the 200M only has circular ones. The lollipop-shaped seconds hand is tipped with a diamond. This inversion may seem odd at first, but I think it works. It only stands out because (to my knowledge) we’ve never seen anything like it before. Design choices like this make the 200M a unique watch in its genre, not a knockoff. As a result, the 200M is able to utilize true-to-the-period details that don’t detract from its uniqueness. In fact, it makes it unique.

Aged lume

I have a problem with counterfeit watches in general, and lume in particular. In my opinion, “aging” a watch to make it look older than it is or from another time is dishonest and doesn’t fool anyone. That being said, I don’t mind historically based design; I love it. I just wish I had the opportunity to age a watch myself. Typsim somehow found the best of both worlds.

The lume used on the 200M’s hands, indexes and bezel insert is a proprietary compound developed by Swiss Super-Luminova manufacturer RC Tritec and Matthew Zinski. As you can see from the photos, all of the lume-coated surfaces on the watch are currently a pale off-white. It’s not the bright white you’d find on a modern tool watch, but it’s far from an obvious attempt at faux silver. But what’s special about Typsim’s lume is that over the life of the watch, the lume will age and patina, turning a rich, creamy yellow. It’s still the good ol’ super-bright Super-Luminova we all know and love, but now without the radioactivity, it will age like the radium that vintage enthusiasts covet. This is a faux silver I can get behind.

Acrylic Crystal

Like all genuine vintage divers with yellowed radium indexes, the 200M uses a domed acrylic crystal, and the bezel insert is made of the same material. Omega Speedmaster enthusiasts will already be familiar with acrylic (or Hesalite) crystal, but apart from the Speedmaster, not many modern watches use this material.

Once synthetic sapphire could be produced quickly and reliably, acrylic crystals for watches went into extinction. Sapphire is scratch-resistant. It’s also attractive from a marketing perspective. But acrylic has its charms and uses, even by today’s standards. It’s less likely to crack than sapphire, even though it does scratch easily. And unlike mineral-based crystal materials, scratches on acrylic can be polished away as easily as they appear. The pressing sample of the Typsim 200M I received included a small tube of polishing paste to refresh the crystal if needed. However, either inadvertently or in an attempt to capture the charm, I forgot to polish away a small scratch on the magnifying lens located above the date display.

Acrylic stays true to the Typsim 200M’s vintage design roots and is a perfectly valid choice for a tool watch regardless of its history. From a more aesthetic standpoint, the acrylic portion of the watch allows owners to either develop the fine scratches characteristic of diver’s watches of certain eras, or keep it polished and smooth with minimal maintenance.

Tipsim 200M silver-plated dial

The dial is visible through a period-correct acrylic crystal, and what a dial it is! One of the reasons so many vintage watches are so desirable is their gold leaf dials. Of course, the gold leaf effect would be more visible across the entire dial on a dress watch, but many tool watches also feature this technique and aesthetic. Unfortunately, as my buddy Thomas detailed in a previous article, traditional gold leaf dials are rare in today’s modern watch industry. But for Matthew Zinski, it was important to recreate the elegance of a gold leaf dial.

The effect is subtle yet sharp, lending it an elegance not found in other less-than-authentic homage tool watches on the market.

The dial of the Typsim 200M is first silver-plated. It is then partially electroplated with black lacquer. The logo, minute track and luminous indexes are visible through the silver-plated dial underneath. The only thing printed on the dial is the number “200m” at 6 o’clock, which indicates both the name and the water resistance of the watch.

The result is hard to capture in a photograph. Unlike white dial elements printed on a black background, the reflective silver covers a range of greyscale depending on the lighting. Often it appears crisp and white against the black lacquer. But sometimes it can appear downright black. The effect is subtle yet sharp, exuding an elegance not found in other, less than authentic, homage tool watches on the market. It blends perfectly with the sharp, polished sword-shaped hands. The 200M’s gold dial is one of its strongest features.

Genuine Rivet Bracelet

The Typsim 200M’s five-row rivet bracelet is another period-accurate touch, and the attention to rivets is thorough: while other brands that embrace a riveted aesthetic may sacrifice appearance to gain access to removable links, the Typsim 200M’s bracelet is riveted all the way to the clasp.

Unfortunately, this is my only complaint with the 200M. The last few links on either side of the clasp that are meant to be removed for sizing are held together by a post and threaded bar. This allows them to be unscrewed and removed for sizing. However, of the two slotted screw heads on either side of the pin, one is a post of less than a few millimeters, making sizing very frustrating. The tiny post that screws the pin into also doesn’t inspire confidence in its ability to withstand wear. A slightly loose pin quickly becomes a lost pin in this setup. Sometimes continuity isn’t everything, and it would have been much better if the removable links had a simple pin and sleeve system, even at the expense of the aesthetics of the rivets.

Gripes aside, if the sizing was right, as most five- and seven-row bracelets are, the bracelet was very comfortable, and it definitely looks good with the watch. However, if I were to buy it, I would probably also purchase a different, period-appropriate aftermarket bracelet or strap.

The latest specs for this vintage diver

The Typsim 200M oozes nostalgia, but is also fully equipped for the modern world. As mentioned, it’s water resistant to 200m, making it suitable for scuba diving. The mechanics are just as impressive. Inside is the chronometer-grade (but not certified) Sellita SW300-1. This slim automatic movement has a 42-hour power reserve and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour. Though it’s hidden from view through the all-steel case back, you can rest assured thanks to the rhodium-plated and heat-blued screws.

The size of the watch is also modern. With a perfect 39mm case diameter and 41mm bezel, the Typsim 200M sits comfortably and beautifully on any wrist. At 47.7mm long, the perforated lugs are spaced 20mm apart, making it a great match for aftermarket straps and bracelets. While it’s a serious tool watch, the 200M sits comfortably on your wrist at just 12.7mm thick.

On the wrist

Bracelet quibbles aside, I thoroughly enjoyed wearing the Typsim 200M on my wrist. The dimensions are perfect and the watch is undoubtedly classy. My daily wearer is a mid-1960s skin diver type watch. With the 200M on, it feels very similar, but maybe even more special. The elegance of the gold-plated dial cannot be overstated. The domed acrylic bezel insert and date magnifier always catch the eye, and the crisp machining on the crown catches the light. With the 200M on, I feel prepared for life, just like any other diver watch, but with more, for lack of a better word, sparkle.

It was good then, but it’s better now

There are people who would pay tens of thousands of dollars for a watch that is iconic of the era that the Typsim 200M evokes. These watches are now truly luxury items. The unique aesthetic of mid-1950s dive watches is now so coveted that there are people who want $200 brightly colored plastic toy clones for their relevance and looks alone. It’s refreshing to have an option that is still a dive watch first and foremost. Moreover, the Typsim 200M is truer to the 1950s than any other watch I’ve come across.

What Zinski and his brand have done with the 200M is find a sweet balance where beautiful looks, premium components, and functionality meet (not counting the clunky features of the bracelet). In a watch market that is steeped in nostalgia but is simultaneously trying to promote robust, modern functionality, the Tipsim 200M makes obvious and simple sense. It has everything you need and nothing you don’t. Moreover, it brings a unique addition to the watch world that will satisfy the appetite of those looking for a very specific type of watch. I also think it will be very appealing to many people who never knew they needed a mid-50s diver’s watch until now. This watch is making me rethink my collecting trajectory.

Typsim 200M Pricing and Availability

The Typsim 200M is available on Typsim’s official website for a reasonable price of $1,199. The next production batch is expected to ship in November or December of 2024, but those who want to preorder can do so now. It’s a rare and refreshing example of watch pricing considering everything it offers, but I don’t understand why the 200M is so affordable. I thoroughly enjoyed reviewing the Typsim 200M and would highly recommend it to anyone who is drawn to its unique vintage feel. I’ll be keeping an eye on Typsim and their upcoming releases in the future. Could Flieger be next?