Buffy Acacia
Laurent Ferrier’s life and journey could be a novel of all its adventures, and it’s even more incredible that his latest achievements also hit a considerable milestone. Founded with the help of his lifelong friend François Selvanin, his eponymous brand launched its first watch, the Garette Classic Tourbillon Double Spiral, in 2010. Fifteen years later, the timeless vision of classical collections is as relevant as ever. We looked into three core members of the Laurent Ferrier catalogue to see exactly why they are instant classics.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Blue
Clocks of all classic origins are itself a tribute to its first galette classic tourbillon double spiral, honing the visual properties set by its release and exploring them thoroughly. The case is all about flow as the uninterrupted sweep on its side moves from and around the lug. Even the bezel steps are quite subtle thanks to the mirror polishing. Its effect helps reduce visual bulk, in addition to its environmental reflections, but at a diameter of 40mm, the dial allows plenty of space for breathing. Comfort is also guaranteed by the total thickness of 11.1mm and the lightness of the Grade 5 titanium it is built to.
The classic origin blue dial is where things delve into the modern era. The instantly fascinating side is the blue smoke ranging from the deep navy around it to the soft cornflower in the center. The matte texture gives a parchment feel, and then the layout of the dial introduces a slight level of sportiness. The applied indexes for 12, 3, and 9 pop in contrast to other sharp print markers that incorporate white crosshairs. The stepped small second sub-dial has separate levels of base and mini second tracks, playing with it in a satisfying way with depth. Finally, the elongated spade hand – the signature of Laurent Ferrier – gives a sophisticated and clear feel.
The caliber LF116.01 has a very clear appearance. Forget the exquisitely decorated three-quarter plates of Glashütte and get the industry precision of its large mat plates. It’s modern, but not boring. This approach draws most of your attention on the 3Hz beating balance wheel, surrounded by hand-polished bevels, and simply peers through the large main spring barrel that offers an 80-hour power reserve. It is a manually wound, and a large onion crown is a joy to refill. The nubuck leather strap with Alcantara lined is comfortable and casual without sacrificing the elegance of the watch. Alcantara offers a subtle through-line for the race cars Monsieur Ferrier used to drive.
Brand Laurent Ferrier Model Classic Origin Blue Reference LCF036.T1.CG Case Dimensions 40mm(D) x 11.1mm(T) x 47.6mm(LTL) Case Material Grade 5 Titanium Water Resistant 30m Crystal Crystal Manual Wind Power Reserve 80 Hours Function Time, Minutes, Small Seconds Availability Price 33,000 (~US$37,000)
Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor Silver
Classic microrotor silver is less versatile than Origin Blue for several reasons. The case carries exactly the same dimensions and specifications, but is made from 18k 5N red gold, not titanium. Soon, it elevates it into the realm of more jewelry without taking into account price increases, but its style is still more traditional and will become more part of the statement than Origin Blue. Using an automatic movement makes it technically more wearable.
The combination of gold and silver is not particularly noticeable with many two-tone clocks due to the texture applied to silver. Vertical brushing on most of the dial implements the structure, and then the sunburst pattern of small seconds subdials acts as a flash of plot. Drop-shaped time markers provide sharpness that echoes the hand design, while small gold dots act as fine markers. All of these gold markers are made from 5n red gold and perfectly match the tone of the case.
If you are biased towards clean movements, the classic micro rotors have you covered. A far cry from the stoicism of the LF116.01, the caliber FBN229.01 has a plate decorated with a coat degeneve and postponement that looks like the base plate, with one or two more hand polling up. It also opens up more space as it is beautifully decorated in itself to see the automatic microrotor working. There are many neat additions, including impact protection for micro rotors, and the legendary double direct impulse silicon escape that reduces friction, improves efficiency and improves overall timekeeping. Finally, the Alcantara lined crocodile strap retains comfort with a dressy look.
Brand Laurent Ferrier Model Classic Micro-Rotor Silver Reference LCF004.R5.GR1 Case Dimensions 40mm(D) x 11.1mm(T) x 47.6mm(LTL) Case Material 18K Red Gold 5N Water Resistance 30m Crystal (S) Sapphire Silver Brush Et with Front and Back Dial Aligiator Leather and Arakata In-house, Automatic Micro Rotor, Natural Escapement Power Reserve 72 Hours Function Time, Minutes, Small Seconds Available Price CHF 70,000 (~US$78,000)
Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen
The Laurent Ferrier Classic Collection focuses more on traditional watchmaking with modern talent, but the impact of its design remains driven by Ferrier’s own passion for motorsport. Lace is part of the brand’s DNA, and the square micro-rotor evergreen embraces more of the 1970s throwback aesthetic. This case is made of 18K white gold alloy with 21% palladium, and is completely varied from the others in this reference. It’s slightly larger at 41mm diameter, but the proportion is thick and there’s more separation between the lug, case body and bezel, even with all the refined finish.
Given the nature of the incident, it makes sense that the remaining clocks are leaning towards a more laidback atmosphere. The olive green dial is dark and a little refined, with vertical brushing once again for added space use. Not a distraction with shiny things, the small second subdial has soft particles due to the contrast of its texture. The Calibre FBN229.01 is again used here, but the gold microrotor automatic winding provides a 72-hour power reserve at 3Hz beat rate. The slightly worn brown calf leather straps make it feel like you’re at home with this watch and truly evoke the vibe of a vintage car.
Brand Laurent Ferrier Model Square Micro-Rotor Evergreen Reference LCF013.AC.VG1 Case Dimensions 41mm(D) x 11.1mm(T) x 48.2mm(LTL) Case Material 18K White Gold 210 PD Water Resistance 30m Resistance FBN229.01, In-house, Automatic Micro Rotor, Natural Escapement Power Reserve 72 Hours Function, Several Hours, Small Seconds Available