Jamie Weiss
Yema seems to be on a roll at the moment. This independent French brand hits all the right boxes: classic design, excellent in-house movements and, most importantly, affordable pricing. Their latest creation, the Navygraph Marine National CMM.10, is a modern re-creation of a 70s model made in collaboration with the French Navy, and it has it all. The watch has just been named “French Watch of the Year” by the Union de la Bijouterie Horlogerie, the French jewellery and watchmakers’ union, which recognises a watch that “combines both good design and the best ratio of French-made components”. An impressive title, but what do we Australians think of it?
Dial
Yema describes the new Navygraph Marine National CMM.10 as “an improved and enhanced version of the historic 1970s model, developed in collaboration with Marine National personnel.” However, the dial (and overall design) of this new model is significantly different from the 1970s Navygraph model… but that’s not a bad thing, as this modern dial layout is cleaner and more fun. Also, to be clear, this is not technically a military-issued watch; however, Marine National personnel can purchase one at a discount.
Anyway, this watch has a matte navy blue dial with white indices, hands, dial lettering, a yellow second hand, and the “Navygraph” model name, which creates a pleasant contrast. It’s very legible and has a timeless design. The Super-LumiNova glows a light blue, which is a nice touch that fits the theme.
Incident
The case of the Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10 is, simply put, passable. It has a nice diameter of 39mm and, apart from the polished edges of the lugs, the surface is mostly brushed. Nothing particularly eye-catching, but nothing to complain about either. What’s worth celebrating is that it’s 1.5mm thinner than the original Navygraf, thanks to the in-house caliber of the same name, CMM.10, which we’ll explain in more detail shortly.
An interesting comparison point is the recently launched Yema Superman Slim CMM.20. The Navygraf is slightly thicker (admittedly only 1.25mm) and has the same diameter and double-domed crystal, but the lug-to-lug length is shorter (46mm vs. 48mm) due to the chunkier lug design. The Navygraf’s bezel is also slightly larger. Speaking of which, it features a sapphire crystal insert and luminous markers. Its 300m water resistance puts it squarely in diver’s watch territory.
strap
This Navygraf comes with two strap options: an elastic Marine Nationale-branded parachute strap and an H-link steel bracelet. The difference between the two options is just $100, which is quite reasonable considering rival dive watch brands typically charge hundreds of dollars for bracelets.
The steel bracelet has micro-adjustments and a diver’s extension, but it has a press clasp that feels a bit cheap. As this is a relatively affordable watch, you have to make compromises somewhere. If the clasp bothers you, opt for the parachute strap.
motion
The CMM.10 in this watch’s name stands for Caliber Manufacture Morteau 10, an in-house “chronometric high precision caliber” designed and developed by Yema. Its main components (bridges and mainplate) are manufactured in Yema’s workshop in Morteau, France. Assembly, adjustments and quality control are also carried out in France. Yema has not submitted these movements to an observatory, but claims an accuracy rating of -3/+5 seconds per day, better than the COSC standard.
It’s a striking movement and a beautiful one at that, featuring a very modern black galvanic microblasted finish and a gunmetal rotor, which can be seen through the see-through caseback (although it’s slightly obscured by the Marine Nationale graphics). In my opinion, the movement’s best feature is its 70-hour power reserve.
Verdict
There are still five months left in the year, but there are already some great French watches coming out in 2024. Some that immediately spring to mind are the Baltic x Time+Tide Hermetique Night Mode and the Celica Ref. 8315 Travel Chronometer. But this Yema Navygraph is a surefire contender for French Watch of the Year, at least in our opinion. It doesn’t reinvent the wheel, but it has a slight French flair with yellow contrast accents and checks so many boxes.
Our Creative Director, Marcus, was especially enamoured with this Yema. When we brought it in for a shoot, he raved: “It’s a great addition to your collection. The colours on the dial and bezel are amazing.” And it’s a steal. Where else can you get an in-house movement dive watch with a 70-hour power reserve and these specs for under $2,000? It’s hard to beat…
Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10 Price and Availability
The Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10 is available for pre-order now on yema.com, with orders scheduled for delivery in October 2024. Price: $1,590 (parachute strap), $1,690 (bracelet)
Brand Yema Model Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10 Reference Number 21.14.55.SN.M Case Size 39mm (D) x 13.2mm (T) x 46mm (LTL) Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Water Resistance 300m, Screw-Down Crown Crystal Sapphire Front and Back Dial Matte Blue Dial Lug Width 19mm Strap Marine Nationale Parachute Strap
H-link steel diver’s bracelet Movement CMM.10, in-house, automatic Power reserve 70 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, unidirectional diving bezel Availability Pre-orders open, shipping scheduled for October 2024 Price US$1,590 / €1,590 (parachute strap included)
1,690 USD / 1,690 EUR (bracelet)
