When Tudor released the new “Lagoon Blue,” and won the Black Bay 54, I knew I had to get it. You know, Tudor is the brand I’m back with. Unlike Rolex, which pursues constant repetitive improvements above all else, Tudor seems to have more room to experiment with and play with historic throwbacks, fan favorites and a new design mix. Tudor experiments can be argued while Rolex learns lessons from many Tudor victories, and in some cases commercial failures.
My connection with Tudor
I decided to buy the Tudor Black Bay 58 in blue as a milestone watch to celebrate my 30th birthday. This is because I was drawn to the notion that Tudor represents a “slim” version of Rolex. I was proud to own watches from brands considered to be workers’ Rolex. Some people argue that Tudor is simply a poor Rolex, but I have never fully understood this argument.
Henry’s Vintage Tudor Oyster Dating
I also own a vintage Tudor and Oyster date. I’ve always liked it with a vintage Tudor, so I can get a Rolex case, a crown, a caseback, and a form factor. Usually there is no large price tag. But times change, but finding bargains in modern vintage Tudors is a bit difficult. But they are still there.
Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”
One of Tudor’s most recent releases is Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue.” This brings bright aquamarine colour and a high speed stainless steel bezel. This is especially true when paired with a Tudor five-row bracelet. There are plenty of materials that reflect sunlight, and overall creates a very sparkly object.
The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” (dubbing Tudor Lagoon Blue for Brevity) is a watch that was clearly advertised as a summer watch. Press material for the watch release included a photo of a tanned model of Sandy Beach wearing a linen suit. It seemed like a Bondi Hipster scene. Was this the perfect beach watch?
A brief note about the specifications
Make sure the specifications don’t get in the way. The 37mm steel case comes in a thickness of 11.2mm, including a 46mm lug-to-lag span and a double-dome sapphire crystal. The interior hits the sturdy and reliable Tudor MT5400.
The MT5400 is a 27-jewel automatic caliber with manual winding and hacking seconds, 4Hz (28,800VPH) frequency and 70 hours of power reserve. It is also a COSC certified chronometer. This watch comes standard with a stainless steel five-row bracelet (20/16mm) with a micro-adjustable T-FIT clasp. The clasp is a bigger improvement over my old Black Bay 58, allowing temperature changes to accommodate proper fine-tuning and variations in the size of the wearer wrist.
Goldilocks size
Don’t make any mistakes. These are Goldilocks specifications for many enthusiasts. The Tudor Black Bay 54 is worn very well as a 37mm diving watch. There’s something particularly good about looking at a small tool watch on someone’s wrist. The way it appears to blend into the wrist rather than flapping precariously there is simply looking cool.
The size of the watch is probably a reminder of the golden age of film when our heroes wore a sub-38mm watch. What we’re looking at is the same specs as the black dial Black Bay 54, which has a more tone down. But what sets this watch apart is the use of the summer design cues I mentioned earlier.
Tudor’s dichotomy of design
Tudor Lagoon Blue is an interesting dichotomy of design. On the one hand, we see Tudor sticking to the aesthetics of a radically conservative dive watch, which is the DNA of the Black Bayline. This means design that took root in the 1950s and early 1960s.
However, behind this dichotomy is the use of bright colors, sand texted dials and stainless steel bezel inserts. These slightly collision design cues make an interesting watch overall. That’s a little bit, and another thing.
Is it a design dissonance?
Well, good designs are sometimes seen in the eyes of those who see them. In rare cases, it transcends individuals and becomes “symbolic.” Considering the iconic design, we think of things like the BMW R80 g/s (precursor to modern GS bikes) or the Porsche 911. These are ways to make a statement about the era they welcome. They somehow get apart, as if they were frozen in time.
I don’t think you can call the Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” an iconic iteration, but it’s certainly a fun watch to wear. There is a certain dissonance in the adoption of new colours, and frankly, the bezel is difficult to read in direct sunlight. This means that the watch is more about design than function. But from a visual influence standpoint, blue is gorgeous. The dial texture is like a restless ripple on the surface of the blue sea. It’s really great to see it up close.
The idea of conclusion
Spending a week with Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” (€4,240/US$4,350/£3,590) was a great experience. This watch has proven to be popular with my friends, both men and women alike. Its design is a bit playful and almost mischievous. Texture dials bring you to a frequent reevaluation and turn your eyes to the clock.
It doesn’t hit the gut like the Blue Black Bay 58, so it’s not something I see myself owning. Choosing that watch was a purely emotional decision. But we can imagine that the same visceral sensation comes when many potential customers step into the boutique and look at this watch. In some ways, Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is odd as it spans two worlds. Clues from the relatively conservative design of the Black Bay family, as well as bold (“fancy”) tones and textures for a reckless summer holiday. But isn’t this hobby supposed to be fun? The Tudors Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is definitely the case. And to answer the questions raised in the title of this article, yes, I think it qualifies as a perfect summer watch.
