Our fans are an interesting breed. As enthusiasts, we are always craving something new. But when presented with something new, the first thing we instinctively do is find a watch from the past to compare it to. Identifying references to existing watches is often a reason to disqualify a design. Why am I saying this? Because the new Seiko Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 will definitely receive similar treatment. This enlightening conclusion came from a bit of introspection as I looked at the three new models. My brain immediately tried to find a comparison. But once I got past that instinctual urge, I really appreciated the new silhouettes of these three amazing Seiko Prospex Coastline divers.
Looking at the new Seiko Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485, you may be wondering what I directly referenced. We often compare shapes at first glance, and the TAG Heuer Aquaracer with its octagonal bezel immediately came to mind. But I stopped my internal search for references there. If you wanted to, you could probably come up with more watches similar to the design of these new Seiko Prospex Coastline Divers. So if you feel such an urge, feel free to list it in the comments section.
First impressions of Seiko Prospex SPB481, SPB483, SPB485
But I was more intrigued by how the watch initially caused a pendulum swing between “like” and “dislike” in me. It was the result of my brain processing multiple things at the same time. Like most watch enthusiasts, I quickly start associating new watches with other watches, and the unusual octagonal bezel can make it uncomfortably easy. But Seiko’s designers have made sure this amazing shape is incorporated into a design that feels like a true Seiko Prospex diver.
Creating a familiar context ensures that the outspoken bezel lands gently if you get past the first obvious mention. The first thing I didn’t know the answer to was whether these three watches had a distinct retro vibe. Although the shape may suggest it, the watch doesn’t feel like it takes inspiration from previous works. The new case shape negates that idea. After thoroughly enjoying the first impressions and ending with great satisfaction, it was time to check out the details and put on the watch.
Seiko Prospex SPB481, SPB483, SPB485 details
Seiko Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 are new products, so let’s take a closer look. The three watches feature a 41.3mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 12.5mm, a lug-to-lug length of 48.2mm, and a water resistance depth of 300m. The modern case design features sharp, angular lugs that match well with the style of the bezel. The right side of the case features a screw-down crown protected by a modern-looking crown guard.
Seiko calls the new bezel “polygonal,” but if you look closely you’ll see that it’s octagonal. However, the eight sides of the bezel have a rounded shape that is not as distinct as the bezel on the aforementioned TAG Heuer Aquaracer. Seiko’s designers have succeeded in designing a bezel that feels organic despite its angular shape. As you can probably tell by now, right after unboxing the three models, I was impressed with how they looked.
Dial inspired by Japan’s coastline
The case combines a dial with the image of a flowing coastline, and the dial pattern goes perfectly with all three colors. The first version has a black dial with a brushed copper colored stainless steel bezel with black markers, the second version has a beige dial with a polished black stainless steel bezel. It has white markings. The final option is the blue dial version, which features a polished blue stainless steel bezel with white markings. All three dials feature LumiBrite markers, and even the prominent handset is filled with a healthy dose of this shiny material.
A fun detail is that the polished rose gold-colored hands on the black dial model resonate with the color of the bezel, adding even more visual flourish. The other two versions feature stainless steel hands and markers that match the design well. As you can see, the dial also has a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock. I’m still unsure about the size.
Thanks to the relatively small aperture, the date blends in nicely. However, it is unobtrusive when you need it. Depending on your dating preferences, you’ll probably have an opinion on that. I don’t usually miss dates, but when I do, I want them to be easy to read.
Inside is Seiko 6R55
Hidden behind the closed case back is Seiko’s in-house caliber 6R55. This automatic movement operates at 21,600 vph and has a 72-hour power reserve. This is a familiar movement that Seiko uses in various watches. The 6R55 is accurate to +25/-15 seconds per day, and the movement can be wound manually.
This watch has a stainless steel bracelet and a folding clasp with a push button release and an additional folding security lock. The three-row design of the bracelet looks great, and the round links add a little more character and make it a little different from your typical Oyster style bracelet.
The bracelet features polished center links and brushed outer links with polished sides. Therefore, there are plenty of elements that can be enjoyed visually, making it a luxurious watch. The clasp is neat, but not as noticeable compared to competitors’ clasps. It is equipped with a diving extension for those who plan to wear it over a diving suit.
The bracelet can be fine-tuned with tools, but Seiko only has one additional position. Overall, the quality of the bracelet is on par with those offered by competitors, but I have to say that a good clasp could significantly improve the overall feel of quality. It would be a huge step forward if Seiko could improve the clasp and include a tool-less fine-adjustment mechanism.
Wearing Seiko Prospex SPB481, SPB483, SPB485
It’s on your wrist that the three watches truly come to life. There I got a great idea about size, shape, and my favorite of the three options. The 41.3mm diameter fits my 18.5cm wrist perfectly. These days, I often use 38-40mm watches, and this slightly larger size is perfect for modern diver’s watches.
When you wear the watch on your wrist, you get a great feel for the modern case contours combined with the distinctive bezel. My intuition is that it’s a love/hate situation when it comes to the shape of the bezel. If you don’t like this bezel shape at first, it will be difficult to get used to it. That being said, if you’re interested in something different, I recommend giving these three watches a try.
After trying out three models, the blue SPB483 resonated with me the most. It feels like the most balanced version, as the dial and bezel colors are very similar. The color match also emphasizes the bezel shape less than the other two versions. I have to compliment Seiko on the blue hue used on the dial and bezel.
It’s a deep, rich blue with a hint of grey, and it looks very classy. The combination of the glossy blue bezel insert and the matte dial also gives the watch a beautiful finish.
The balance between the case and bracelet is important.
The beige dial SPB481 is a long way off, and the black dial version with the brushed copper bezel looks nice, but it’s simply not my cup of tea. When I wore the watch, I could clearly see the balance between the case and bracelet. Because the case is more angular, there is less flow from the case to the bracelet. The balance between case size and bracelet must also be perfect. A natural way to address both of these challenges is a one-piece bracelet. However, since this is a diver’s watch, that is not the solution of choice.
The proportions of the case and bracelet are perfect. The lug spacing is 20mm, and if it were 22mm wide, the flow from the case to the bracelet would have been thicker. The natural flow is maintained, the proportions are balanced, and the view from the front is elegant. But what immediately stood out was that the end links of the bracelet were located under the inside of the lugs.
Designers tried to compensate by adding a steep angle on the inside of the lugs that slopes toward the bracelet. However, there is a crucial difference that I feel is not as elegant as I would like. In particular, the case is relatively slim at 12.5mm thick, so I think this “drop-in” of the end links is a bit of a waste in enhancing the luxury feel of the watch.
Final thoughts on the new Seiko Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485
These three new Seiko Prospex Coastline models really surprised me. Indeed, I have never seen anything like this from Seiko. We’re used to seeing Prospex models based on past greats, so something new like this is a welcome departure from the norm. Besides, it’s quite bold to release a series with such a distinctive bezel shape. First, the shape is highly controversial. As I explained earlier, this alone can be the difference between liking or disliking the design. On top of that, watch enthusiasts will likely come up with plenty of references to support their opinions in some way.
After the initial surprise, what struck me most was how much these watches felt like Seiko Prospex divers. The designers perfectly understood how to fit these watches into the typical Seiko design mold. Therefore, there is nothing strange or outlandish about this watch. In the end, I came to like SPB481 and SPB485, and then the blue SPB483. In the short time since I got the watch, it has offered me something new that I didn’t even know I wanted.
Moreover, with a price of 1,200 euros, these three watches are at the heart of the Prospex collection. What you get in exchange for that amount of money is a fresh and original take on Seiko’s diving watches. These new Seiko Prospex models are some of the most surprising releases of the year, and I’m totally on board with the concept. It’s no exaggeration to say that the blue SPB483 has been added to my wish list.
But what do you think of the new Seiko Prospex Coastline Divers? Let us know in the comments.
