Introducing: NOMOS Tangente and Orion Neomatik Dore — Bauhaus with a touch of gold

Nomos is best known for its minimalist, Bauhaus-inspired stainless steel watches. However, the brand has many references with gold accents, and also offers watches with full gold cases. We can add two more references to this list, as the Glashütte brand has released Tangente and Orion Neomatik Doré. Both watches are equipped with in-house automatic movements and feature gold touches on the dials. Take a look at NOMOS’ chic new reference.

One of my favorite NOMOS watches is the Tetra “Ode to Joy” Ref. 445. This one is from the brand’s Square collection and features an olive green dial and gold-colored hands. These hands give me exactly that extra oomph that I sometimes feel missing when looking at a Nomos watch. Yes, I’m really looking forward to seeing the brand’s signature models, the Tangente and Orion, get the same golden treatment.

NOMOS Tangente and Orion Neomatik Dore

But the excitement doesn’t end there. It’s also great that Nomos chose two of their small watches for this luxury release. First up is the Tangente Neomatik Doré ref. 35mm size with 192 pieces. The stainless steel case is just 6.9 mm thick, and the narrow, angular lugs measure 43 mm from tip to tip. Its overall design is slightly more “function-first” than the Orion, with a gently rounded case and tapered lugs that make it look more elegant.

Orion’s case diameter is 36.4mm. It’s a little thicker at 8.5mm and a little longer at 45mm. If I had to choose, I would choose Tangente. The clean case, lugs, and Arabic numerals on the dial are very unique. A classic NOMOS model offering a style you won’t find anywhere else. It’s true that the Orion is slim and nice, but I feel that its features are a little weaker than Tangente and other dress watches.

nomos tangent rug

NOMOS Tangente profile

NOMOS Orion Profile

nomos orion rug

However, if you are already familiar with Nomos, these cases will not come as a surprise. This new release is all about the dial.

golden hand

These Neomatik Dore versions of the Tangente and Orion have the same golden hands for the hours, minutes, and sub-seconds. It also goes perfectly with the slightly shining silver plated dial. Another commonality is the gold “neomatik” print below the brand logo at the 12 position. Unfortunately, for Tangente, the gold stops there. The numbers, hour indices and minute markers are all printed in black.

Meanwhile, the Orion also features embossed gold-tone hour markers. I feel that the design looks more unified than the gold processing of the Tangente hands.

Internal DUW 3001

The Neomatik Doré versions of the Tangente and Orion are powered by the in-house Nomos DUW 3001 automatic movement. The biggest feature is that its thickness is only 3.2mm. Flip the watch over and you’ll see that the ultra-flat rotor carries most of its weight on the outer rim below the three-quarter plate. This allows the caliber to fit as snugly as possible. You can also see that the movement is beautifully finished with blued screws, Glashütte stripes, perlage, and gold-plated engravings. Some of the 37 jewels can also be seen through the back cover of the exhibit.

It’s actually 10 rubies more than before. These additional ratchet wheels optimize the dual ratchet wheels that convert the bidirectional movement of the winding mechanism into unidirectional movement. Ultimately, this allows the automatic winding system to work more efficiently. The updated DUW 3001 still operates at a frequency of 21,600vph and has a power reserve of 43 hours. You’ll also be happy to know that both watches are water resistant to 5 ATM. According to Nomos, this means it’s splash-proof.

on your wrist

Like my favorite Tetra, I love the gold touches on these two classic NOMOS models. The gold-tone hands add a little extra flair to the functional, clean Bauhaus dial, making these watches just that little bit more interesting to look at. We can also imagine that if you have a “normal” Nomos watch in your daily life, you might opt ​​for a watch with a touch of gold for more festive occasions.

However, I would have liked a little more gold in the Tangente Neomatik Dore. In addition to the neomatik gold printing, the minute numerals may also have been printed in gold. Other than that, I think it’s a beautiful version of both models.

Both the smaller Tangente and the slightly larger Orion fit my 17cm wrist well. The brown Horween leather strap takes some getting used to, but it ages very well in the long run. Some of my colleagues thought this strap was a little too shiny and formal. But I think it adds a bit of sturdiness to these pretty watches, especially when you imagine what the strap will look like after a few months of wear.

available now

The NOMOS Tangente and Orion Neomatik Dore are available now for €2,940 and €3,040 respectively. You can also choose the Tangente with an all-steel case back. In that case, the price of the watch will be reduced by 300 euros. As previously mentioned, each watch comes with a genuine brown Horween leather strap with a stainless steel pin buckle.

Let us know what you think about the new NOMOS Tangente and Orion Neomatik Dore in the comments section below.

Watch specifications