Watches and wonders attracted most of the attention this April, but other brands had the opportunity to show off their products at nearby venues. Time To Watches was an event held next to Palexpo. I found myself there several times due to my appointment and had a particularly lovely time sitting with Guebly founder Adnane Kerd. During our session he revealed his second watch in his young company, the CH1 Rétrograde.
With an astonishing number of small, high-class holology brands in existence, it’s easy to create new watches. A mountain of money might accomplish that, but the trick is to create a cohesive design instead of the concept of slap dashes. Guebly founder Adnane Kerd is a longtime collector and trained as a watchmaker. With his passion and technical chops, he created the brand. The company’s first watch, the Prologue, was well received. Now the brand has returned with follow-up. Thankfully, the new CH1 retrograde still injects a high level of wear resistance, which is a unique daily suggestion.
Pria’s ch1 retrograde
The latest Plus is a 42mm x 44.32mm grade 5 titanium watch with a thickness of 10.56mm. It is equipped with dome-shaped sapphire crystals on each side, boasting an incredible depth of 100 meters. The genre saw creates a thick blue grain leather strap and adds a funky twist. Instead of a typical pin buckle or folding clasp, the straps have a Velcro closure system. This may seem unsafe on some watches, but the CH1 retrograde is all about wear. On the front of it, the strap has a push button removal system that makes it easier to change your own strap.
23 sides
The titanium case has a fascinating number of facets. In fact, there are 23 edges overall! Instead of looking busy and confused, the shape works because of its compact design. As a retro fan, I’ve seen the touch of a vintage Grand Seico 4520-7000 on the finished product, or even the new SBGC23 Spring Drive chronograph, but that’s positive. It’s time for brands to embrace different directions, whereas brands portray the Royal Oaks of the world. On a note, the overall design was envisaged by Eric Gilud, a well-known Swiss designer who has worked for many brands. Voutilainen and Cattin SA are in charge of casing and decoration.
The blue dial sums up some techniques
Unlike Prologue with Sunburst dial, the CH1Rétrograde adds a lot of details. The central part of the 925 silver dial features a hand guilloche with a pattern that stimulates the dunes. The appliques, including logos and retrograde plaques, are made of gold and include hand-covered edges. Retrograde display adds Grand Feu Enamel by MaëlleConstant. The hands are made of grade 5 titanium and are made by hand. Again, nods to everyday ease of use, with an index and a Super Luminova in the middle hand.
Caliber 21.31 Micro Rotor Automatic
Looking through the back of the sapphire display, the caliber 21.31 auto reveals its thick 5N gold vibration weight. Horocraft and Christophe Beuchat’s Sylvain Pinaud designed a 217-component movement that runs at 28,800Vph and has a 70-hour power reserve. The finish is also amazing. The rich perlage, anglage, and microblast surfaces create a modern look. The double spiral ratchet wheel on the bottom left is eye-catching detail.
The CH1 retrogrado is lovely on the wrist
As someone with small wrists, I am used to working with the beautiful watches of small independents who control my wrists. The CH1 retrogrado is different because it fits beautifully. Although it cannot be compared to the prologue, the subtle adjustments to the case design have created a watch that can be worn at any time. For works that contain this level of hand finish and fun retrograde complications, I think it’s an impressive feat. Yes, the watch stands out as something special, but it’s well-configured for everyday use.
As for readability, it’s easy to read. As for the details of the dial, it is exposed when the light changes or when the wrist rotates. Same as the case details.
Final Thoughts
The CH1 Retrograd has 80 production runs. This allows potential buyers to see one person directly in one of Guebly’s retail partners in Dubai, Geneva or London. At the CHF 38,900 it’s not a cheap proposal, but it’s a unique one. As mentioned several times, the magic of this watch is its ability to combine several hand washing techniques with everyday wear. Another great selling point is that it is more unique than the typical large brand dressy sports watches.
View specifications
Dial
Blue dial with 925 sterling silver base, hand-up parlage and hand guillotine. A retrograde gold applique with hand-finished satin and wrapped in diagonals. With Grand Fewey Name. Gold applique logo, finished with satin and hand-covered. Super Lumino Vindex.
Case Material
Grade 5 Titanium
Case dimensions
42mm (diameter) x 44.32mm (lug-to-lug) x 10.56mm (thickness)
crystal
Dome sapphire with double-sided reflective coating
Case back
Grade 5 titanium with Domed Sapphire display, secured with 4 screws
Movement
Caliber 21.31: Manual winding micro rotor automatic, 28,800VPH frequency, 70 hours power reserve, 35 gems, 217 components, screw balance wheel, parlage, angular, variable inertia to adjust microbead finish
water resistance
10 atm (100 meters)
strap
Blue grain Calfskin leather with blue rubber lined. Velcro closure and Grade 5 titanium buckle.
function
Time (hours, minutes, retrograde seconds)
Special notes
Limited edition of 80 pieces