You know what people say. “Don’t meet your heroes. It will only disappoint you. The curtain of your enchanting fantasy will be lifted and you will become sadder, wiser and maybe even cynical.” ” So when Nacho asked me if I would be interested in getting my hands on a 65-year-old Rolex Submariner, I was nervous. Should I do it? The young reference 5513 has always been my holy grail watch. It’s something I’ve spent a lot of time with in various guises. What’s it like living with an old reference 5508? Will it be so delicate and rickety that you’ll completely hate your vintage Submariner? Or will it displace 5513 and become my new holy grail?
Of course, I couldn’t turn down the opportunity and found myself slipping a 1959 diver’s watch into my left hand. I’d love to say I closed the clasp with a confident click, but I had to fight to get it to follow as the thin pressed metal plate warped over time. I pulled the outside of the clasp toward me and pressed it down. It was maintained. In fact, it felt oddly reassuring. 5508 and I went out on our first date. Let’s see how it worked out…
Putting the Rolex Submariner 5508 into context
The Rolex Submariner was initially characterized by a rapid succession of minor and major updates. So don’t worry if you don’t know the 1950s Sub references by heart. I’m happy to admit that I’m not either. In fact, in the late ’50s, several different generations and versions overlapped, making the problem particularly complex.
The 5508 and 5510 were both introduced in 1958. The Submariner 5510 was thick, approximately 15 mm thick, and featured a so-called “big crown” of 8 mm. Rolex water resistance is rated at 200 meters. The Reference 5508, on the other hand, is only 12.6 mm thick, has a smaller crown, and is water resistant to 100 meters. There is a version with the 60 minute marker on the bezel with a red triangle and a version with a silver triangle. The one I have here has a bezel attached afterwards.
This was the first generation to be powered by Rolex’s caliber 1520, and my 1967 Datejust also has another version of it. At the same time, this is also the last Submariner generation without a crown guard. The compound was diluted towards the end of production in 1962, but the dial still featured radium lume. Therefore, later models tend to have brighter colored lumes. Also, the dial is my favorite gold leaf type.
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When I first took this 5508 out of its pouch, I had a visceral reaction. It was a strange feeling of relief. Over the past few years, I’ve been dealing with a lot of vintage-style dive watches. The domed crystal, gold dial printing, and faux patina are all starting to look a little dated. Here I had the real deal. This is exactly what all these watches aim to look like. 5508 reminds me of the source of an aesthetic that has become something of a cliché.
Interestingly, that only makes this watch even more appealing to me. I was worried that if I kept being exposed to homages to this style, I would get bored with it. The opposite is also true. Staring at this 5508, you realize that no amount of gold paint and beige lume can match the age-old gold-dial Submariner. It’s like Justin Timberlake singing the blues. It may be pitch-perfect and technically perfect, but I’d take Howling Wolf or Big Joe Williams any day.
Over the years, the black galvanized surface of the dial has cracked, forming sharp lines like shards of a thin layer of ice on a lake. It is the horological equivalent of the lines around the eyes of an old man who has laughed and cried for decades. Everything may be cracked, but it’s definitely not broken. To me, a dial that has aged beautifully like this exudes dignity and confidence. All still stand proudly with their battle scars hidden. This is the sauce and I love it.
Wearing Rolex Submariner 5508
If you’ve never handled a Rolex from this era, the experience probably won’t be what you imagine. Modern Rolex watches feel like ultra-precise, solid blocks of steel. The moving parts feel as if they are running on ceramic ball bearings, and their weight inspires confidence. There’s nothing like that here. The 5508 is eerily light. It feels like you can remove the parts with your bare hands.
This is partly an illusion. Rolex developed and manufactured these watches as serious diving tools. They are reliable enough and tough. It’s just that we don’t associate this kind of feel (rocky and light) with toughness. Still, there’s a reason these watches have continued to be used hard for over 60 years. Of course, there are notable differences between modern Rolex watches and the 5508. Its descendants surpass it in all aspects except one: charm. As a diving tool, this watch is inferior to subsequent updates. As an object of love…
A thin riveted bracelet made of folded metal sheets secures the 5508 to the center of your wrist. This is a small Submariner measuring 37.5mm x 46.9mm x 12.6mm, about the same distance as a Tudor Black Bay 54. Interestingly, it doesn’t feel like a small diver’s watch. The well-balanced design gives off an overwhelming presence. The 5508 asserts itself beyond its size, much like Luka Modric does in midfield.
Is the Submariner 5508 my new holy grail watch?
Sorry if it sounds like a love song. Trust me when I say this is not to make up for my recent Rolex-related indiscretions on Fratello Talks. The Rolex Submariner 5508 epitomizes everything I love about watches. I love divers’ watches, and I can’t think of a better diver’s watch that’s been released since this one. For me, this is the best design for a diver’s watch. Sixty years later, other brands are still trying to make their watches look like this.
Indeed, owning a watch like this should be considered a hobby in itself. If you need to replace something, you may find yourself scouring the web for the correct part at the time. I made sure to stop by the watch shop at least once a year and have the seals inspected. Again, Caliber 1520 is reliable and easy to service even in 2024. If this watch were mine, I have no doubt it would spend several days in a safe.
At the end of the day, what matters is how the watch makes you feel. This Rolex Submariner 5508 made me feel really special. I felt the same way when I recently played a 1933 Gibson L-00 acoustic guitar. The cracked black lacquer looked like a premium version of this 5508’s dial. The guitar had repaired cracks and wear, and had a completely different feel than the buttery-smooth tuners found on modern guitars. When I strummed a chord, the guitar barked, shook, and bounced in my lap like a nervous dog. That one code was an event…an addictive experience. 5508 had exactly the same effect on me. Yes, this is my new grail watch.
What do you think about the Rolex Submariner 5508? Let us know in the comments section below.
