New references to the Buffy Acacia Hèrmes Cut and Arceau collection use complications to pause the time display as movement continues. Hèrmes Cut has a small second hand that runs backwards in one cycle every 24 seconds, while Arceau has a hidden retrograde date hand. Both moves are manufactured by Vaucher and have a 45-hour power reserve at 4Hz beat rate.
If there is a dial that doesn’t show the time in a clear way, or a dial that prioritizes fun complications, I often ask about the need for time and whether I actually check the watch. Hermes goes a step further and wonders whether we can learn that knowing time is actually harmful to our minds. The purpose of Le Temps Suspendu is to disrupt the perception of time and create a sense of security, allowing the clock to become a symbol of freedom rather than a march when time stops for all of us. Assuming that concept is not too dark, the new Hèrmes cut and Alco model approach it with beauty and optimism.
Some people get their noses up by philosophizing what is essentially useless complications, but I argue that all luxury watches are philosophical exercises. Luxury is not essential by definition, so you need to justify its existence in your life through thought. To be completely clear, Le Temps Suspendu is the complications and spirit of Hèrmes, completely preventing the pusher from reading the time he has been activated. The hand flicks to rest on either side of the 12 o’clock marker, and in the alco model, the retrograde date hand is whisked behind the raised platform. It’s like playing Peek-a-boo over time, but when it’s finally visible, I’m in charge. The movement is still accurate when you decide to watch it again, as it will keep time while in suspended mode.
The most interesting thing about both cut releases and alco releases is how different they are while using the same concept. The new Alco leaned against the mystery with its hidden retrograde dating hands, with the tinted sapphire sector revealing the taste of the movement below. Its dark blue colour varies widely across the surface, from grains in the date area to sunburst brushing under time marker printing. The gold dots and 18K rose gold case repeat its gorgeous status, providing cool blue tones and warm contrast. Also, white gold with deep wine red or brown gold dials comes in a tasty version, with 42mm retaining the strong wrist presence of such a refined watch.
Meanwhile, the 39mm Hèrmes cut is a much worse watch, even in character. The cushion case only has a small lug that transitions to an integrated rubber bracelet, and the off-white dial feels clean without feeling clinically. Again there is a red dial variant, which seems to have a passion. The bold outlines of the Arabic numerals and the skeletonized hands give a completely modern feel, and the option with a diamond set bezel with matching gold bracelets introduces a high jewelry element. Most fascinating is the small second subdial that shines on a bright white surface with a burst finish of the day, as it moves backwards with one turn every 24 seconds. Those seconds of hand will run forever, whether your time display is stopped or not, and will continue to disproportionate your sense of time. Both Le Temps Suspendu Watches have a 4Hz beat rate, a movement manufactured by Vaucher, and a 45-hour power reserve.
Hermes Cut and Alcourt Le Tumus pauses pricing and availability
Hermes cuts and alcohol temps suspend are now available. Price: 28,000 euro (reduced in rubber, ~31,870 USD) / 33,000 euro (alco rose gold, ~US$37,560) / 38,000 euro (alco rose gold, ~US$43,250) / 43,000
Brand Hermes model cut
Arceau Case Dimensions 39mm(d) (cut)
42mm(d)(arceau) Case Material 18k Rose Gold (Cut)
18k White or Rose Gold (Alco) Water Resistant 100m (Cut)
50m (Alco) Crystal Sapphire Front and Back Dial White or Red (Cut)
Brown, Blue, or Red (Alcoh) Strap Rubber Strap or Gold Bracelet (Cut)
Crocodile or Calfskin Leather Strap (Alco) Movement H1912, Voice, Automatic
H1837, Vaucher, Automatic Power Reserve 45 Hours Function Time, Minutes, Backward Seconds, Time Stop (Cut)
Opening hours, minutes, retrograde days, and time stop (alco) availability are now available.
€33,000 (Alco Rose Gold, ~37,560 USD)
€38,000 (alco rose gold, ~43,250 USD)
€43,000 (cut with gold bracelet, ~48,950 USD)
