Christopher Ward’s latest flagship pushes the envelope of design and mechanisms. Simply put, this is a big deal for the brand and the industry as a whole. The C12 LOCO proves that luxury watchmaking can be found at a more accessible price range. I spent a week in a silly white composition with a striking white dial to see if this most ambitious iteration would withstand the hype.
12 people will grow
The C12 Loco is confidently evolving in Christopher Ward’s 12 designs. At first glance, changes in case architecture are subtle but important. In particular, the crown guard is gone, giving the midcase a clean, uninterrupted profile. It is a sophisticated movement and lets your eyes understand the flowing lines of the dodecagonal bezel that are not obstructed. Speaking of that bezel, it still has 12 facets to the name of the collection, but now it flows more naturally into the case. The refined proportions and transitions mean that the bezel will no longer look like another “cap” sitting on top of the midcase. Instead, it blends organically with it. This could be a deliberate adjustment to address feedback and further distinguish Loco as the flagship model of Collection. The result is an elegant unity that, in my opinion, even the acclaimed original Twelve, could not be achieved completely.
It is clear that the brand put a lot of thought into refining rather than reinventing it. Loco appears to be readily recognized as part of 12 families, but is more mature and distilled. The ratio is 41mm diameter, 47.5mm length, and 13.7mm total thickness. Also, the loco is thicker than the 12 time only due to complex movements, but the improved case deceives and looks slimmer. The result is an incredibly inconspicuous watch due to its mechanical weight.
But what about the C12 loco on your wrist?
From the moment I held the C12 Loco on my wrist it was clear that this watch, despite how easy the latter, was not only designed to be praised, but also worn. The 41mm case size and the downward slope of the central “lug” integrated, allowing the loco to sit firmly and comfortably. For reference, I have a 6.8 inch (17.25cm) wrist.
A lovely new rubber strap with Christopher Ward’s badder buckle is a key factor in its comfort. This strap is specially built for the Loco series. It is thin and fully integrated into the sides of the case. The Bader Buckle Deployant Clasp allows for keeperless straps. Everything is neatly locked up so that it’s not visible, providing an ultra-clean look. My one little niggle is that the folding section of the clasp is very long. I prefer to have the deployment clasp on the shorter side whenever possible.
On the wrist, the white loco caught many praise gazes and several questions from curious friends and family. Despite all the tech talent, it is still sophisticated and not overly flashy. I generally prefer to add the contrast and depth that dark skeletonized movements provide, so I’ll admit that my taste is leaning towards the black dial mutants of loco. But a week later with this white model, I fell in love with its unique charm. The white dial version has a clean, almost architectural appeal. It introduces the structure of the movement in a very airy way, and the bold, black-edged hands and indexes stand out sharply against a white background, so readability remains excellent.
Symmetry and harmony
Flip the C12 Loco up or stare at the “dial” and the real magic will be revealed. All of these watches are movement. Christopher Ward has equipped the Loco with the new caliber CW-003, a high-end mechanical engine that has evolved from the SH21 but has been completely redesigned to the C12 Loco briefs. Thanks to the openwork dial and display caseback, it is displayed both from the front and rear, running at a level of symmetry, far beyond what we saw at the price of previous CW models or in fact for this watch.
The first thing you will notice is how balanced the layout on the dial-side is. Openwork or skeletonized clocks often seem confusing or “too busy.” It is clear that the CW will anticipate this issue and design the bridge and dial elements of loco movement to maximize consistency. The architecture is symmetrical along the vertical axis, with time subdials, balance wheels and escapements positioned to give a pleasant mirror image effect from top to bottom. I’ve seen other skeleton pieces at 2-3 times the price that is so easy to read and harmonious.
CW-003 is the correct flex
Diving into the technical side, the movement of the manual-wound CW-003 is where Christopher Ward bends the muscles of its watch. The brand describes the caliber as the most advanced yet, and it’s not hard to see why. For one, the CW-003 features the brand’s first fleece pulling balance wheel. Switching to balance on the fleece pulling means that the Loco rate is adjusted by small screws on the rim of the balance wheel. You would normally think that this type of balance is reserved for high-end watchmaking.
Two parallel main barrels power the C12 Loco and provide a fulfilling six-day (144-hour) power reserve. The Long Power Reserve has been signed by Christopher Ward. Here, there is not only convenience but also symmetry. The twin barrels sit on top of each other in a movement layout, contributing to their balanced view.
Finishing the CW-003 moves really brings Loco to another league. Christopher Ward worked to achieve a level of decoration that I probably didn’t unfairly expect from the brand. The hand-polished bridge (yes!) showcases a sparkling polished bevel when catching light with clean and accurateness. From behind, the view is just as fun. Let me tell the image yourself.
The new vertex refines revolution
After spending a few days at the C12 Loco, it is clear that the model represents the zenith of Christopher Ward’s 12 collections so far. Loco claims that it surpasses last year’s impressive 12x in terms of overall design maturity and technical capabilities. The 12 x was already a bold move, but the C12 Loco is wrapped in a more refined look and uses an elevated mechanism to keep that watch special.
The result is a watch that doesn’t feel like the novelty or outliers of the collection, but rather the legitimate flagship of 12 families. By stripping unnecessary prosperity and cutting down the case architecture, CW has made it feel Loco like the most distilled, pure expression of the 12 concepts to date.
When brands can offer this quality launch, they question the need for gimmick marketing stunts that will help them make their message cheaper. Of course, it’s a clear excavation at Omega that is talking about the recent mission of British Watchmakers during the day. Come on, gentleman, you are better than that. And this watch proves that. Brands are taller about their merits without the need for parody or provocation. Hopefully, it was a one-off marketing misstep…
Does C12 Loco justify that price?
Of course, all of this excellence comes at a price. What did you expect? The steel C12 Loco on a white rubber strap costs £3,795/US$4,595/€4,950. If you want a stainless steel bracelet with built-in micro adjustment, you’re looking at more Smidges for £3,995/US$4,825/€5,205. Let’s put that into perspective. Within Christopher Ward’s lineup, the Loco is above the standard 12 and above the standard 12 as the 12 X. It’s on top of CW’s highly acclaimed C1 Bel Canto Chiming Watch and costs £2,995 when it debuts.
Externally, can £3.8K be able to get you in a wider market? Looking at the major Swiss brands, they don’t often offer similar price-spec ratios. The Omega Seamaster or Tudor Pelagos in this range offer a superior but mass-produced movement and solid sports watch build. Still, it doesn’t come close to the sight of C12 Loco’s open work hand in hand. Independent and microbrands offer some interesting options, but often use outsourced movements and simple finishes.
Final Thoughts
Still, the inevitable question for potential buyers is whether C12 Loco justifies its price. Now, you need to consider what’s offered – in-house, 6 days of COSC grade movement, high-end finishes, truly complicated designs, limited production talent. Christopher Ward suggested that Loco was “the most advanced watch the company has ever made.” From this perspective, Loco starts to look a bit like a bargain about what it is.
If you’re already leaning towards what Loco has to offer, it’s hard to find a comparable one without spending much. Christopher Ward carves the niche here and, in my opinion, the brand has reached the mark. C12 Loco is a strong insisting on maintaining it in pounds, dollars or euros. It certainly is worth the admission fee for my book. In fact, my time with this watch convinced me to open my wallet and I ordered (a black dial on the bracelet in case you’re wondering). If it doesn’t speak volume, I don’t know what to do. So, with all this in mind, don’t walk towards the Christopher Ward website. Orders open at 16:00 CEST tomorrow, with the first batch of delivery scheduled for September this year. The wait begins!
