Last month, I met Liliane Thibault, founder of Awake Watches, at an event in London. We’re used to the brand’s sporty, often space-themed limited editions. However, I saw a very different upcoming release. The new Sơn Mài collection brings together two forms of métiers d’art in an affordable package.
Since its launch in 2018, Awake has made some fun watches. In 2022, a colorful space-related watch was introduced, and in 2023, a more subdued model with a solid dial was added. All of these watches use similar thick, sporty cases. But the Sơn Mài collection takes a decidedly different direction for Awake. This watch introduces a new case design and new aesthetics. Frankly, I’ve enjoyed previous Awake releases, but these new models are a noticeable step up in terms of finish and attention to detail.
“Awakened Sonmai” Collection
Awake’s Sơn Mài makes its debut with a focus on métiers d’art. I’ve been hearing this French word meaning “craft” a lot lately. As stones, enamel, and other artistic dial finishes are making a comeback, brands are focusing on finding unique options. For Awake, this literally means having two different finishes on the dial. In this case, the technology is Vietnamese, and Awake works with domestic artisans to complete the piece.
The Sơn Mài watch has a gold plated base with silver foil. The dial is then lacquered in shades of purple (Amethyst), green (Emerald), red (Lava), or blue (Outre Blue), and the craftsmen sand the lacquer to a smooth finish. This polished lacquer is also the source of the Vietnamese name for these watches: Sơn Mài. Awake sent me the Outre Bleu and Amethyst models for hands-on review.
specification
The new Sommai creation features a 39mm case made from fully recycled 316L stainless steel. The clean dial design allows the watch to wear larger despite its moderate length of 45.6mm lug distance. It also has a thickness of 11.8 mm (including the sapphire crystal) and a depth of 50 m.
In a move that will please some buyers, Awake has partnered with Deluxe to develop a gray nubuck strap with black rubber lining. Hollow-out pin buckles show Awake’s new level of detail.
La Joux Peret G101
Microbrands specializing in affordable watches have several choices as movement suppliers. Awake chose the increasingly popular La Joux Perret G101 automatic. Power reserve is 68 hours. This movement has a frequency of 28,800vph, making it a nice upgrade over the common ETA 2824 clone. I have owned several watches of this caliber and have found them to be reliable and accurate. The Sơn Mài reveals its movement through a sapphire window on the case back. The tungsten rotor has basic decoration, but the movement holder looks great with a guilloche pattern and individual numbers.
Inspecting the dial
The new Sơn Mài dial is impressive in person. All have a glossy, rich, liquid-like surface. The gold plating on the underlying silver varies from dial to dial, revealing different patterns and creases. In fact, we actually looked at the various stages of the dial, and the silver is incredibly thin and delicate. Combining the two techniques adds a level of visual detail that would not be possible if each technique were performed individually.
But that’s not all. One of my favorite things is the application of Super-LumiNova. From a distance, the polished hands and pointed hour markers look simple. Closer inspection reveals a thick, solid layer of BGW9 underneath all of these components. In the dark, the outline glows, turning your watch into a neon road sign. The soft blue glow stands out, and the shape stands out clearly. Overall, the bright design is a nice modern touch.
on your wrist
Awake has done a great job of alternating brushed and polished surfaces with this new case design. Again, this is a classy upgrade over previous models and hopefully indicates the direction of the brand.
The case is comfortable on the wrist, especially the moderate thickness, which makes it work as an everyday watch. As mentioned earlier, the relatively spacious dial, polished case top, and 20mm strap make the watch look large. The key points are the size and phosphorescent material that doesn’t look too dressy. Still, I wouldn’t classify the Sonmai as a sports watch. Think of it as a refreshing handcrafted alternative to other brightly colored dials on the market.
Price and availability
Amazingly, Awake Sơn Mài’s creations are priced at €1,950, meaning buyers can get a beautifully crafted timepiece at a more than affordable price. Also, the first 50 pieces of each color are numbered. However, this is not a limited edition and all models will be part of the regular collection. I’ve said it before, but I think it’s worth reiterating that these watches are a step forward in both finish and style compared to previous Awake models. It looks mature and I like that the dial incorporates craftsmanship.
For more information on the new Sơn Mài collection, visit Awake’s official website.
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