Hands-on: The new Aquastar Airstar Chronograph

Honestly, I look forward to everything Rick Murray and his team create. All of the recent products from Aquastar and Synchron are exciting, well-made, and relatively affordable, and the new Aquastar Airstar Chronograph makes it even more affordable. This is certainly one of the coolest recent releases.

There are a number of ’60s skin diver-inspired watches on the market at a variety of price points, but Aquastar feels like the brand with the most rights to use the style for a modern incarnation. After all, the brand was one of the first to adopt the practical slab-sided case design with its Model 60 in the late ’50s. Aquastar wasn’t limited to the quirky but highly collectable Deepstar, as it also produced chronographs using the same case style. Another highly popular model, the Airstar, has been in production since 1964. This watch served as the inspiration for today’s new release, marking its 60th anniversary, although as we’ll explain later, the modern incarnation is no direct copy.

Original Aquastar Airstar

The vintage Aquastar Airstar is more traditionally styled than the Deepstar. It uses the popular Valjoux 72 movement and is housed in a 38mm stainless steel skindiver-style case. The inclusion of the word “air” in the name suggests that it was intended for pilots rather than divers. The internal tachymeter scale and bidirectional 60-minute bezel confirm this purpose. Little is known about the production numbers of this model, but it is generally believed to be around 200 pieces. This makes the watch pricey at around 10,000 euros.

New Air Star

It’s immediately clear that while the new Airstar is related to the original, there are some big changes. Most notably, the watch is now black thanks to a DLC coating, and it now has two subdials instead of three. So, for anyone who despises mere reissues, this one’s for you!

The new Airstar is a 39mm black DLC coated stainless steel chronograph with a lug-to-lug length of 49mm. The case is 14mm thick, but you need to add another 2mm for the domed sapphire crystal. Some may complain about the total, but as you’ll soon see, this watch defies the specs and wears like a dream. Next, the unidirectional 60-minute bezel features 120 clicks, a white filled scale, and round pips filled with Super-LumiNova. The case is matte on all visible surfaces, but the bezel, pushers, and crown faces are polished.

The familiar movement, Valjoux 7753

Before we talk about the beauty of the dial, let’s talk about the movement. Rick opted for the proven Valjoux 7753 rather than the more expensive La Joux-Perret caliber, making the Airstar more affordable and maintainable. The 7753 automatic movement is in the same family as the 7750 and has a power reserve of 48 hours.

A well laid out dial

With the 7753, you can choose between a two-register or three-register chronograph; however, due to the smaller spacing between the registers and the size of the dial, the two-register layout is more attractive and easier to read for this application. The all-black dial features a mix of white print and ecru Super-LumiNova, with the attractive Airstar signature once again located below the center of the watch. Some may object to the use of lume, which can look dated, but it keeps the watch from looking too cold and inorganic. In terms of layout, the same tachymeter scale as the original outlines the dial. Also note the reuse of three lume stripes at the 12 o’clock position. Attractive lume-filled syringe-style hands with white outlines indicate the hours and minutes. Functionally, the subdials display the seconds hand and 30-minute counter. Overall, it’s a practical watch with a clean look and easy to read.

Perfect fit for your wrist

I’ve had the chance to wear the Airstar for over two months and have put it through its paces. The watch has been in the pool, accompanied me on trips to the city, and used as a key timer at the grill. With 200m water resistance, it’s nice to have a functional watch that’s good for all situations and looks great doing it. I’m not normally a big fan of DLC, but the compact look and wearable size of this watch has me thinking otherwise. Plus, I’ve had enough of steel chronographs.

Speaking of fit, Aquastar has once again crafted a case that sits beautifully on the wrist. The 7753 adds some thickness to the overall design, but the included black Tropic strap keeps the watch from feeling wobbly. While not as light or compact as the time-only Aquastar, the Airstar doesn’t feel too heavy or clunky. For those with average wrist size, this watch should fit perfectly.

Price and final thoughts

The new Aquastar Airstar is a limited edition of 300 pieces and will ship immediately. It will be priced at $1,890 USD during the launch period (regular price is $2,790 USD if it doesn’t sell out). In 2024, this price represents great value for a chronograph that is expertly crafted and finished better than other models in its price range. While the DLC may not appeal to everyone, I find it particularly versatile when combined with the optional leather strap that Aquastar offers. Overall, the Airstar is a surprising release from the brand after the recent launch of their regular stainless steel watches, and I like it.

For more information on the new Airstar Chronograph, visit the official Aquastar website.

Watch Specifications