Fergus Nash
Watches & Wonders 2023 feels like a long time ago, but some releases remain in our minds. Chopard’s LUC collection continues to impress with every release, and the company has doubled down by presenting both reissues and new designs at Watches & Wonders.
Chopard’s LUC 1860 is a modern, updated return to the collection’s 1997 debut, while the LUC 1963 Heritage Chronograph explores a more exciting path for the prestigious brand.
Examples
Looking at Chopard’s LUC 1860, it’s immediately clear that this isn’t simply an excuse to reuse an older design. The updated case is much more statuesque, with more attention paid to the bezel and wider lugs, making it feel visually more stable on the wrist. The white metal case may look spartan to the untrained eye, but the brand’s signature Lucent Steel replaces the yellow gold of the ’90s model. It’s made from 80% recycled materials and is specially heat-treated to be 50% harder than regular steel. In addition to being more scratch-resistant, the metal’s luster is slightly brighter, giving it a premium feel similar to white gold. With a diameter of 36.5mm and a thickness of 8.2mm, it offers a refined, vintage-inspired wearability, but never feels small.
While Chopard’s LUC 1963 Heritage Chronograph is not an adrenaline-pumping chronograph for thrill-seeking collectors, it certainly is a step in the sporty direction of the LUC collection. The case is also made of Lucent Steel and is a faithful replica of the racing chronographs of the 1960s. However, the thick lugs give this overall casual design a touch of luxury. The 42mm diameter and 14.5mm thickness speak to the modernity of this watch, embodying the grandeur of a large sports watch. Chopard’s past support for the Mille Miglia.
Dial
It’s always hard to tell how a dial style will age, but in the case of the LUC 1860, the original 1997 dial certainly looks a bit dated. In comparison, the new model feels fresh yet timeless, seamlessly blending vintage and modern elements. My favorite of the new additions is the orientation of the sunburst guilloche pattern, which now radiates from the logo rather than from the center pinion. This adds a dynamic layer and a slightly more whimsical style. The date display has also been removed, significantly streamlining the dial. The gold dial is a beautiful tone and a nice thematic inversion of the gold case and silver dial of the 1997 original.
Green dials have gone out of fashion and are now commonplace, but the dial on the Chopard LUC 1963 Heritage Chronograph is still stunning. The sunburst brushing radiating from the logo subtly sets it apart from other green dial chronographs on the market. The large printed minute markers instead of hour markers are inspired by the vintage stopwatches that dominated race tracks in the 60s, but the dauphine fusee hands give it a more refined feel. The subdials are also very tasteful, with a subtle crosshair for the seconds hand at 6 o’clock, a neat 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, and a respectable 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock.
strap
Both of Chopard’s new LUCs come on leather straps, and are very different in style: the 1860 comes on a grey-toned calfskin leather strap with a Lucent steel buckle and has a lug width of 18mm, while the 1963 Heritage Chronograph comes on a smoothly finished brown calfskin strap with green stitching and lining that complements the dial, and has a lug width of 20mm.
Movement
When you buy a watch from Chopard’s LUC collection, no matter how beautiful the piece is, the movement is even better. Each model is COSC certified for chronometer accuracy and awarded the Geneva Seal, a mark of quality, and looking at the see-through caseback is just as rewarding as looking at the dial. The LUC 1963 Heritage Chronograph uses the in-house manufactured LUC 03.07-L. While the movement’s name isn’t the prettiest, its specs more than make up for it. A 60-hour power reserve and 4Hz beat rate ensure a consistently smooth sweep, while the vertical clutch and unique hammer system provide reliable actuation with soft-touch pushers. It also has a flyback function, allowing you to measure time continuously without the need to reset to zero.
The LUC 96.40-L from LUC 1860 is an evolution of the caliber 1.96 found in the ’90s models, but now it only displays the time, focusing on quality over quantity. It has twin barrels, provides a 65-hour power reserve, and vibrates at 4Hz for smooth operation of the small seconds. The decoration is stunningly opulent, with a gleaming 22K gold micro-rotor.
Pricing and availability for the Chopard LUC 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronographs:
Chopard’s LUC 1860 and 1963 Heritage Chronograph are available now. The 1963 Heritage Chronograph is a limited edition of 25 pieces. Price: $23,200 (LUC1860) / $32,300 (LUC 1963 Heritage Chronograph)
Brand Chopard Chopard Model LUC 1860 LUC 1963 Heritage Chronograph Case Size 36.5mm x 8.2mm 42mm x 14.55mm Case Material Lucent Steel Lucent Steel Water Resistance 30m 50m Crystal Sapphire Sapphire Dial Gold Green Strap Grey Leather (18mm) Brown Leather (20mm) Movement LUC 96.40-L LUC 03.07-L Power Reserve 65 hours 60 hours Availability Available Now Limited to 25 pieces Price US$23,200 US$32,300
