Borna Bosniaks
It’s been seven years since Seiko decided to establish Grand Seiko as a separate entity rather than a sub-brand. To make it easier to justify the significant price difference to the average consumer, Grand Seiko dropped the Seiko double-sign dial starting with the SBGR305 in 2017. While watch fans (especially Seiko and GS fans) can be tough contenders, the move was mostly well-received, as many of the subsequent designs featured much cleaner dials. We’re confident that no one expected it, but Grand Seiko is bringing back the double-sign dial and bringing back the 1968 4520-8000 45GS in the form of the Grand Seiko SLGW005 Heritage Collection model. This is a faithful recreation of a classic Grand Seiko model, with upgrades worthy of its vintage name.
A short history
There is a lot that can be said about the history of Grand Seiko, even if we focus on a single model line. The 45GS was launched in 1968 by Daini Seikosha to compete with Suwa Seikosha’s 61GS, known for its excellent chronometric performance and high beat caliber, especially when considering the VFA variant.
Perhaps most notably, the 45GS follows in the footsteps of the 44GS, inheriting Taro Tanaka’s famous design grammar introduced with the latter model in 1967. The 45GS developed this lineage with further refinements to the case proportions, and unlike its predecessor, it was in production all the way through to the mid-1970s, which also marked the end of Grand Seiko-branded watches before quartz made a comeback in 1988 in the form of the quartz 95GS.
Dial
Finally, turning to the revival piece, the connection to the original 45GS is immediately apparent. Unlike other Grand Seiko reissues, the SLGW005 is a near-perfect reissue of its ’60s predecessor. Seiko enthusiasts like me will love the double-signed dial and Hi-Beat logo printed beneath the GS in Gothic script, but nerdiness aside for a moment, this is a really cool watch.
One of the main reasons Grand Seiko’s removal of the Seiko branding from its watches was well received was because the Double Sign models of the past few years often had too much text on the dials. The SLGW005 perfectly walks the line between staying true to its vintage inspiration and over-branding it too much. The small dauphine hands are immediately reminiscent of those on the 36.5mm 44GS models, but don’t feel overly small like those watches. The off-white color also does a good job of evoking the spirit of the vintage pieces without feeling too branded, and the overall finish is in line with the high standards you’d expect from Grand Seiko.
Incident
The dial is true to the original, but the case size has grown from the 36.5mm x 8.8mm of the 1968 45GS. It’s 38.8mm in diameter and 10.4mm thick, and this increase is likely due to the new caliber, which we’ll explain in more detail later. I’ll always be one to complain about watches being larger than they should be, but the flared, short lugs of the 45GS-style case have me grasping at straws.
Dials have a certain taboo charm to them that is Seiko and Grand Seiko, but it’s really the dial where the SLGW005 shines. Tanaka outlines three key points that all watches that follow his design grammar must meet: flat surfaces with no curves, making those surfaces as wide as possible, and polishing those surfaces to a distortion-free mirror finish. The SLGW005 passes with flying colors, taking features such as a semi-concave crown (another 45GS feature) a step further to complicate the finish, frosting the inside, and polishing the embossed GS lettering.
strap
The included crocodile leather strap has a matte, unstitched finish, befitting a watch of this style, but it’s no exaggeration to say that with this dial and case, the SLGW005 wants to be a strap monster. Grand Seiko hasn’t forgotten the pin buckle, finishing the steel with large Seiko lettering on a hammered background, again referencing the design of the original 4520-8000.
motion
But we have to thank this release for the new Grand Seiko 9SA4 caliber, which was announced at Watches and Wonders this year along with the SLGW002 and SLGW003 models. The 45GS Grand Seiko model, produced by Daini, had two distinct features: manual winding and Hi-Beat. Until the 9SA4 was announced, Grand Seiko’s only current manual winding movements were 4Hz calibers, but I think the brand felt that it wasn’t the right choice for a revival of a classic. And rightly so. The 9SA4 is a really beautiful movement, nicely decorated for the price, with nicely angled screws and ratchet wheels, stripes, brushing, and polishing.
Spec-wise it’s perhaps even more impressive, offering the aforementioned 5Hz frequency, 80-hour power reserve, and average deviation of -3/+5 seconds per day. It features dual barrels (easily visible through the caseback) to support the power reserve, and a dual-impulse escapement, a rarity in watchmaking. The escapement (as the name suggests) transmits two impulses: one from the escape wheel to the balance, and one from the pallet fork (as in a traditional lever escapement).
Verdict
I rarely get excited about new releases these days, as my personal collection is mostly vintage. The moment I took the SLGW005 out of the box, that excitement completely vanished. The look is rooted in 1960s elegance, but with a truly impressive and beautiful modern movement. My personal feelings aside, the Grand Seiko SLGW005 feels like watch geek fan service executed to perfection. It ticks all the boxes, and considering the modern movement, it may be an improvement over the original. I often say “if there’s anything to nitpick about,” followed by some vague reason to complain, but honestly, I’m pretty stumped here. Maybe it’s time to make some space in my watch box?
Grand Seiko SLGW005 Heritage Collection 1968 45GS Reissue Price and Availability
The Grand Seiko SLGW005 is a limited edition of 1,200 pieces, available from November 2024. Price: AU$13,900 (approx. USD$9,500)
Brand Grand Seiko Model Heritage Collection Reissue of the 1968 45GS Reference SLGW005 Case Size 38.8mm (D) x 10.4mm (T) Case Material Stainless steel Water Resistance 30 metres Crystal Sapphire crystal front and back Dial Off-white Strap Crocodile leather, steel clasp Movement 9SA4, in-house, hand-wound, high-beat Power Reserve 80 hours Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve Availability November, 1,200 pieces Price A$13,900
