Russell Sheldrake
It is no secret that Grand Seiko draws inspiration from the surrounding natural Japanese habitat. Whether it’s the country’s famous cherry blossoms or the unique quality of snowflakes – and this year the Grand Seico headline is worthy of the new UFA model, making it the final introduction. The Grand Seiko SBGW323 “Kiri” is a great example of how to make the understated case size completely unisex and provide a great entry point for high-end brands.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkwqibdrmhe
Getting this watch showed how well it is balanced not only in its sizing, but also in its overall design and colour. While we don’t often get a truly unisex piece that brings elements of colour to the table, Grand Seiko here has accomplished it by finding the right balance between boldness and elegance. This watch is firmly categorized to me in the “robust elegance” category. Whether it is related to water resistance or reliability in movement, Goldilocks zones can be difficult enough to meet everyday demands, regardless of whether they are refined on any occasion. In this regard, having a smaller case size certainly helps. The small clock will automatically look dressy, so Kiri will tick many boxes by adding fine dial texture and high polish to the case. So let’s take a closer look at this new watch.
Dial
It’s correct to start this with the dial. The purple tone Grand Seiko chose for Kiri is perfectly suited to the briefs as it evokes the many flower tints that come from the Paulown tree. This tree is known as a princess or empress tree, and is therefore highly regarded in Japan. Its flowers are these purple trumpet-shaped flowers, ranging from pale, almost white to deep, rich purple. So, if you select the iwate mountain dial texture here, the dial color will be able to move when you move the clock.
Why does this particular tree and its flowers make sense? Now, the Kiri Flower happens to be the official flower of Iwaki Prefecture and is the base of Grand Seiko’s Studio Shizuki Wool. And since the Paul Oun tree can be seen on the sides of the rocky mountain, it is a very nice touch to have the dial texture of the Iwaite mountain used here. As mentioned above, the color of this dial changes and can change as it moves around in the light. This is not surprising given the mastery of Grand Seiko dial makers.
Separating this dial will double Grand Seiko Classic, Faceted, and Applied Baton Markers at 12. The sharp polish applied to them matches the sharp sword’s hand glides through the applied GS initials and carves word marks. Overall, the dial is kept very clean, with all furniture and text minimal. This will make the dial’s colour and texture stand out and attract all the attention it deserves. I was not a big adorator for the fan-shaped power reserve that Grand Seico places on the dial. Thankfully, here is a clean, crisp, elegant dial that anyone can work with.
case
Here is a 44GS case. In other words, it measures 36.5mm in diameter and is equipped with a distinctive, highly wide, sophisticated lug. This may be one of my favorite case shapes that Grand Seiko produces. That percentage is perfect for me and shows off the polishing of the Zaratsu covering the top of the rug, one of the best quality Japanese brands have. This mirror perfect distortion-free polish helps to stand out GS with other candidates in this price range, providing great topics to those who love the brand, but creates a very eye-catching effect for others.
The 36.5mm 44GS variant we know and love today was launched in 2022, but was based on the brand’s formative design dating back to 1967. As mentioned above, it is 36.5mm thick and 11.6mm thick, allowing it to slip into more dress categories than the case shape and bracelet pairing. Was that a little thin? Maybe, but that’s not a concern for me as it still achieves a water resistance of 100m. It carries a sturdy caseback decorated with Grand Seiko Lion, so you won’t get a chance to move here.
Movement
Keeping this watch running is the manual winding caliber 9S64. This may not be the famous Spring Drive that Grand Seico is known for, but I think it’s enough for the Rolex Oyster to take on forever. Given its robust nature and power reserve of 72 hours, it’s not going to smell. This move is another reason why I think this is a great entry point for Grand Seiko. One of the great benefits of owning a manually wound watch is that it creates a connection with that watch very quickly. As you handle it, wrap it, set it up, and take these repetitive actions over time, you start to notice all the little details the designer has built in, creating a bond with the watch.
Beyond this, this movement is regulated to stay within +10/-1 second per day on the wrist (+5/-3 static). This means that movement is adjusted to higher accuracy outside the case, but to allow for daily wear, temperature changes and sudden movement fluctuations, Grand Seiko installs slightly higher bands to ensure crops.
bracelet
Holding this watch together is the familiar standard Grand Seico bracelet. This is another element of this watch, and it feels like it’s spanning the category of tools and dresses. The clasp is a fairly simple event with the release of the push button. This may be something people are leaning their noses. It fits perfectly for me, especially when I’m looking at entry-level watches like this, as Grand Seiko makes micro-adjustable clasps (although only UFA at this stage).
verdict
There’s a lot going on with this seemingly simple watch. With subtle play in size and color, potential for all genders, attention to detail with the skill of keeping Spring Drive affordable and polishing Zaratsu on full display, the SBGW323 Kiri is the perfect package for my eyes. Are there any small details that can be done with just a few improvements? perhaps. But honestly, if I was looking for the first Grand Seico, this and other dial variations in the 44GS range are exactly where I land.
Grand Seiko SBGW323 Kiri Pricing and Availability
Grand Seiko SBGW323 is available from all Grand Seiko Points. Price: US$5,900, US$8,400
Brand Grand Seiko Model Heritage Collection 44GS ‘KIRI’ Reference SBGW323 Case Dimension 36.5mm(d) x 11.6mm
