As many know, the late 60s and early 70s were the age of design experiments in the watch industry. Girard-Perregaux may not be the first name of people’s tongues when it comes to funky watches of this era, but don’t think the brand has anything. With the Casquette and The Deep Diver series, Girard-Perregaux has released several excellent watches that perfectly represent the style of the era. Today, GP is reviving Deep Diver Ref. 9108 debuted in 1969.
Honestly, when I first looked at the new Girard Perlegoux deep diver, I wasn’t expecting to see funky, colorful watches. The deep diver’s name should have prepared me some, but it can go many different ways in terms of design. The name first appeared in the brand’s collection in 1957 with Reference 7254. Despite enduring pressure to 100 Fathoms, the watch looked very similar to what is considered a dress watch today. But a few years later, the Deep Diver series showed great versatility in line with the design development that characterised the evolution of dive watches.
The story of Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver Legacy Edition
In 1969, Girard-Perregaux released the Deep Diver Ref. 9108, its general design was the blueprint for this new Deep Diver Legacy edition. The watch has introduced an EPSA cushion-shaped super compressor case with two crowns and a dial design suitable for funky ERAs. The automatic GP 461 caliber inside the watch featured the brand’s innovative gyromatic system. The system used a one-way winding mechanism that relies on two “gyrotron” wheels with rubies rather than ball bearings, like most autowinds. The greatest advantage of the Geiromatic system was its prevention of wear and friction.
For the new legacy edition, the dial design pays homage to the bold aesthetics of the 1971 model, which comes with a red and black dial. But rather than simply recreating that colorway, Girard Perlegault worked with the Bamford Watch department to give it a great twist. The dial on this watch is a bright new version of the classic, combining orange, white and blue. But the Bamford treatment on the dial is just one of many details on the watch.
Deep Diver Legacy Edition details
Find out more for better ideas. The new Deep Diver features a 38mm grade 5 titanium cushion-shaped case with a length of 40.3mm, thickness of 13.91mm and depth of 200m. On the right side of the case there are two crowns, like the older model. The upper crown controls the inner bezel, while the lower crown controls movement. As you can see in the image, the finish looks pretty spectacular. The top of the case features radial brushing that emphasizes the 14 bezels. This influenced the shape of Laureato, which debuted in 1975.
The sides of the case feature vertical brushing, while the lug has a sophisticated finish that adds visual drama. Also look at the crown with a cross hatch pattern. The bottom of the two also features the “GP” logo. Finally, the chamfer that connects the case to the flank has a sophisticated finish to greatly enhance the view of the profile. Overall, it’s a complex, star-like combination of finishing.
A dial designed in collaboration with the Bamford Watch division
As mentioned before, inside the case there is a colorful dial that combines orange, white and blue. The large, round center features a blue retro Girard Perreglog logo on the top half, and a Bamford logo in a light orange hue on the bottom half. As far as co-branding is concerned, this is done elegantly. The orange circle in the middle connects to a date frame at 3 o’clock in a white ring holding the 1 hour and minute marker. The funky orange time index and hand are interestingly equipped with an orange super luminova that illuminates a bright blue in the darkness.
The orange time marker is placed between the blue shapes that follow the inner bezel on a 60-minute diving scale. I love retro style numbers that greatly increase the funky overall aesthetic. As most of you know, removing the crown at 2am will allow you to rotate the inner bezel. Doing so will also change the appearance of the dial. Turning the bezel will break the shape until it re-aligns with the marker on the dial. It’s a fun exercise that proves why the 70s, the late 60s and early 70s, were wild periods of design.
The watch is equipped with a blue rubber strap that will give it a beautiful look. This strap features a quick release spring bar, making it easy to replace without the need for tools. In addition to the blue straps, the Girard-Perregaux includes an orange rubber strap to switch things up, with both straps having branded titanium buckles.
Girard-Perregaux Caliber GP03300
The inside of the Deep Diver Legacy Edition cushioned case breaks the company’s GP03300 movement. This automatic diameter is only 3.36mm thick and operates at 28,800VPH and provides a 46-hour power reserve. Most of the time, this movement is safely hidden behind the caseback with a small blue sapphire display. This window features the name of the deep diver and the trident placed above the waves, indicating its deep sea purpose. Looking past the print, you can get a glimpse into the caliber below, adding visual depth.
Final Thoughts on the New Girard Perlegoo Deep Diver Legacy Edition
As mentioned earlier, Girard-Perregaux will produce 350 of this new Deep Diver Legacy Edition, at a price of 16,000 euros each. Given that Deep Divers are a favorite among Girard Perlegu collectors, there is no doubt that these watches will be sold fast. Additionally, the new colorway, created in collaboration with the Bamford Watch division, is a vibrant new take on the 1971 model. This will be the desired collector’s version of this classic diver. I can’t wait to see if this release is a one-off deal or if GP will eventually release the Deep Diver Edition. All the history and design there allows the model to make a great comeback. For now, this Funky Deep Diver Legacy Edition is a great first step!
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