The Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT was one of the most commercially interesting releases at this year’s Watches and Wonders. Unlike most of the exotic luxury watches released at the fair, this was a watch you might actually go out and buy. At the same time, it was a very long-awaited, aesthetically predictable watch, so we weren’t all that impressed. “Oh, this is it,” I remember my reaction when I saw the first press images and the real thing a little while later. I almost didn’t care.
That doesn’t seem completely fair. The Black Bay has propelled Tudor to new heights over the past 12 years. Fans have been asking for a decently sized GMT watch in the Black Bay line for years. So I felt it was time to give 58 GMT a try. We spent some time with it to see how it stacks up in today’s crowded market. Let’s see how we succeeded.
A few more words about that first impression.
My initial puzzled reaction wasn’t due to any technical flaws or flaws. After all, it is my view that the Tudors dominate this segment in this sense. If your budget is limited to 5,000 euros, I don’t think you can do better than choosing a Tudor of your choice. I’ve seen watches with inferior construction and finish that were twice the price.
My reaction was more driven by aesthetics and expectations. We all knew the Black Bay 58 GMT would arrive sooner or later. I also knew it would be topped with a rich vintage sauce. Gold accents, rivets, old-fashioned colors… everything was as expected. So it came as little surprise when it finally fell. It felt like it had been in the catalog forever. Well, except for the caliber limitations that kept previous works pretty thick.
You can’t blame Tudor for this. After all, it was definitely a hit. As a brand, it would be insane not to do this or to ruin the concept. Sure, some geeks like me will admire the evolved, more modern look. But why would Tudor betray the concept of its most popular watch series when there’s still milk in the cow?
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
So what exactly did Tudor do? First of all, the brand utilized the latest movements that are COSC and METAS certified (!). Caliber MT5450-U is a GMT movement based on the 5400 series. Like its big brother (MT5652), the new caliber is the Flyer GMT, operating at a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz). The MT5450-U has a power reserve of 65 hours, while the older model has a power reserve of 70 hours. More importantly, Tudor has shaved approximately 1.4 mm off the thickness of the caliber found in the regular Black Bay GMT and Black Bay Pro.
Tudor found an additional 0.4mm elsewhere, slicing the overall thickness to 12.8mm versus the larger watch’s 14.6mm. Combined with the 39mm diameter and 47mm lug-to-lug length, it comes very close to the popular Rolex 5-digit dimensions. The 200m water resistance also withstood a slimming diet. Completing the case is the more classic knurled bezel and flush crown familiar from the Black Bay 54. This sets it apart from the rest of the BB58 line, which has a larger, more modern-looking crown. The version with a steel bracelet starts at 4,670 euros, and the version with a rubber strap with end links starts at 4,450 euros. My choice is a bracelet. Because the strap looks a little too modern compared to the watch head.
While the design may look familiar, the color scheme isn’t pulled directly from the vintage Rolex GMT reference. The Black Bay 58 GMT combines black and burgundy with strong rose-toned accents. This is consistent with the approach taken with Black Bay Pro. This watch is inspired by the Rolex 1655, but with a little twist. This time, we see quite a lot of gold-plated Rolex 1675s, but when you look at them side by side, you can see that the similarities are much smaller than I imagined.
Wearing Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
As a critic, I have to admit that I am biased. I feel a little tired of modern watches that look overly vintage. I owned an original Black Bay and an equally retro Oris Divers 65, but quickly lost interest in both. So I’m not proud to admit that my heart was a little closed off when I took the Black Bay 58 GMT out of the box. I had to remind myself to be fair. “Let’s strap it on and see what happens,” I said to myself. To my surprise, I found myself looking at my watch a lot. I think it looks much cuter on your wrist than it does in the photo. As we spent time together, I came to appreciate their fun style. It doesn’t take itself too seriously, but it still has enough content to feel worthwhile.
Of course, when a familiar watch is downsized, the first thing you notice is its proportions. People often feel that well-proportioned watches look unattractive. Maintaining balance in your design while changing dimensions is much more difficult than you might think. I’m happy to report here that I had the exact opposite experience. The Black Bay 58 GMT has such perfect proportions that it immediately feels like it should be Tudor standard. It’s statement, sporty, and has enough steel to feel confident, while still looking elegant and sitting comfortably. For me, it’s perfect for an everyday sports watch.
The second thing I always enjoy when working with Tudor watches is their build quality. This is no exception. The watch feels heavy, sturdy, and solid. Everything from the structure of the bracelet to the operation of the crown and bezel exudes a sense of luxury. In short, it’s a very well made watch. The clasp is particularly nice thanks to the smooth T-fit micro-adjustment mechanism and the soft, positive click when closing. My only complaint is the lock lip shield. It’s so sharp that it gets stuck under my fingernail every time I open the clasp.
Is the Black Bay 58 GMT a usurper or a clown?
It feels a little outdated to keep coming back to the Rolex vs. Tudor comparison. Still, Tudor continues to hint at its sibling brand so clearly that it would be impolite not to mention it. So the question is, how should we view this in the realm of vintage and modern Rolex?
I think the Black Bay 58 GMT has found a unique place among other options. It has all the charm of a vintage GMT-Master, but with modern construction and reliability. It’s the same size as a five-digit Rolex, but still has a modern, rattle-free construction. On the other hand, compared to the current GMT-Master II, it has a more subdued and less flashy look. Rolex is more sophisticated, but perhaps not 2.4x, so you can also experience the law of diminishing returns. In fact, purchasing any of the GMT Master options discussed here will cost you at least twice the price of the Black Bay 58 GMT.
That being said, I always wonder how these strong vintage-inspired aesthetics age. I don’t think there’s anything more timeless than a true vintage classic. So what does this have to do with the crown? Is it a clown? No, that’s not true in the long run. A usurper? No, it’s not a threat. Perhaps it is the king’s handsome younger brother. It may not be as powerful, but going to the club will probably be more fun.
What do you think about the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT? Let us know in the comments section below.
