The Tom Austin The Gentissima Oursin Collection is expanded on Geneva Watch Day 2025 with two stunning yellow and rose gold variations. The iconic Gerard Genta design, originally inspired by sea urchins, was reintroduced in 2024, and these two new pieces mark the fifth and sixth watches in the growing Gentissima Oursin collection. Both 36mm watches pack a visual and technical punch, with an incredibly unique look that hides Zenith GG005 elite automatic capabilities.
Needless to say, Gérald Genta is perhaps the most prolific watch designer of a generation, having an impact on the industry for decades and has influenced every corner with some of his incredible, creative and implemented designs. The essential aspect of what makes the design bigger is how the story develops around it, and there are several Genta watches, including the iconic Oursin.
The story began in 1994 when Gerald Genta met a sea urchin while traveling in the Mediterranean. Inspired by its shape and the surface of the cavity, he tried to work with the design of a watch with a circular case and a surface with a round figure. And then we (French for “Urni”) was born. Although original examples are rare, Genta’s wife Evelyne loved it so much that she was creating her own work. In 2024, the revival of Gentissima Oursin was seen. The brand is currently supported by Louis Vuitton.
The first is the Gentissima Oursin 36 Burgundy, with 4N rose gold round case studs and Burgundy details, perhaps of the two. The 36mm case is made of solid 4N rose gold with frost surfaces created with glass bead blasting. This is in contrast to 223 highly polished spherical studs of different sizes, set on the surface of the case.
As a result, there is a luxurious effect you want to play with constantly, gentle, elegant yet tactile and comfortable. The balanced circular case protrudes from both sides and is almost laggless, except for the small single lug that connects the straps to the watch. At 36mm it is a very wearable size for most wrists, something unusual for such a watch, giving the watch the feeling that it is a more unisex piece, rather than an all-over female-only watch.
The Black Onyx variation is a much more aggressive design, this time with a 36mm round case in 3N yellow gold, the same as the rest of the models, but instead of rounded studs, it features 223 sharp yellow gold spikes screwed into the surface. Evoking a rebellious, punk-like aesthetic, it reminds me of the scattered punk rocker leather jackets, naturally and to wreak havoc.
Both cases feature display casebacks and sapphire crystal for functionality, allowing for 30 meters of water resistance, but as usual with such watches, you rarely get to swim.
Apart from Fire Opal, which was released in January, the Oursin collection is somewhat modest when it comes to adventurous colorways. So burgundy is a welcome addition. The dial color of the Burgundy version comes from the rich tints of tall bearded iris flowers. The surface of the dial is finished with an octagonal guilloche pattern that catches light from any angle and features a case-matching 4N rose gold hand, giving the dial a warm glow.
The guilloche pattern on the dial complements the natural flow of the design and draws inspiration from the iris flower petals on which it is based. Given how our original designs were naturally inspired, I am sure Gerald himself was happy to be approved.
The octagonal pattern is a recurring theme in oursin collection, and the Black Onyx model continues this theme with a dial made from black onyx stones, featuring the same hexagonal pattern shaved on its surface. The result is of course very reflective, but the alternating facets play with light, but still deep and Lucious black.
The dial is split between time markers scattered with yellow gold and subtle grey printed fine tracks, in contrast to polished yellow gold hands. The combination of black and yellow gold is classic and adds even more to the punk rocker look.
Both watches feature Zenith Elite Base GG-005 caliber. This is an automatic movement that shows subtle modifications to the rotors to match the unique look of the brand and Watches. The 4Hz beat rate, along with a 50-hour serviceable power reserve, suggests that this is based on the Elite 670 automatic caliber. Gérald Genta has introduced a unique look of 18K gold rotor. It’s not groundbreaking, but this movement looks really great through the sapphire caseback, which is rare to see on a watch like this.
Burgundy is a dial-matched Burgundy, arrives on traditional calf leather straps. It’s thin and elegant, and complements the dial well, but definitely a more toned strap with two straps. In the Black Onyx version, the band strap may split the opinion as is common, but I have to say it’s pretty great, but that might split the opinion, so I’ll say this. The black leather with pebbles is perfect for a leather rocker-style biker jacket and looks like a character’s watch bag for rent.
Pricing and availability for Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin 36 Burgundy & Black Onyx
Both Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin 36 Burgundy & Black Onyx are available starting October 2025.
Brand Gérald Genta Model Gentissima Oursin Reference EECD01A1 (Burgundy 36)
EECE02A1 (Black Onyx 36) Case Dimensions 36mm (D) x 9.6mm (T) Case Material 4N Rose Gold (Burgundy 36)
3N Yellow Gold (Black Onyx 36) Water Resistance 30m Crystal Sapphire Crystal Dial Burgundy Hexagonal Gillosh
Black Onyx Bracelet Burgundy Calf Leather Strap
Black Exotic Leather Band Strap Movement GG-005, Zenith Elite Base, Automatic Power Reserve 50 Hours Function October 2025 Price CHF 27,000 (Burgundy 36)
CHF 29,000 (Black Onyx36)
