Borna Bosniaks
The watch world is often a pretty straightforward environment, with many enthusiasts getting bored of yet another black-dial midcentury-style diver watch. There is a time and place for such watches, but every once in a while, a brand will come out with something actually novel, rather than a rehash of their back catalogue. Gagà Milano didn’t have to worry about that, as most of the brand’s collection focuses on the unusual and quirky. Founder Ruben Tomella, with the help of Mo Coppoletta (a tattoo artist, designer and independent watchmaking enthusiast), created Gagà Laboratorio, a new direction for the brand focused entirely on enthusiasts who may be bored. The new Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Cinquanta and Bauhaus models focus on displaying time in unusual ways in cases with designs that combine space age and art deco, with the signature Gagà Milano style case completing the unique package.
Dial
When I first saw these watches, it was the dial that immediately caught my eye. To be honest, it took me a while to figure out what was going on, but it’s not that hard to decipher the time. The window at 12 o’clock displays the hours, while the central segment shows the minutes. Finally, the central rotating Gagà Laboratorio logo acts as a pseudo-seconds indicator in place of a traditional central seconds hand.
A closer look at the dial reveals yet another odd mix of elements and styles. The Labormatic could technically be called a sector dial, but by no means in the traditional sense. The digital hours are highlighted with red triangles, showing the double-stamped numerals for each hour. Unlike the Cinquanta model, Bauhaus has dispensed with stylized typeface for the minutes, opting instead for elongated indexes and a red lollipop pointer hand.
Incident
While we’re sure the dial is the highlight of the new Gaga Laboratique, don’t overlook the case. At 42mm in diameter and 13.3mm in height, it’s not a small watch, but given the pebble-like case shape, we doubt it will feel too large for most wrists. The most noticeable feature of the seven-part case are the lugs, a type you’d see on a vintage JLC, but with a thoughtful exaggeration. This has become a signature element on most Gaga products, but the stepped design, changed finishes, and integrated crown at 12 o’clock make for a more cohesive and subtle design.
It’s mostly polished, with brushing used to accentuate elements like the aforementioned lugs, which flow into the midcase. I love the crown at 12 o’clock that’s decorated with beads and features a ball-bearing-like cabochon. Overall, the case has the kind of whimsical design you’d expect from a 1970s space-age “Disco Volante” watch, and I really like it.
strap
Watch brands, especially smaller brands, often don’t pay attention to the hardware on their straps. The leather, rubber, or fabric itself may be nice enough, but it’s just attached to an unattractive press-spin buckle. Thankfully, Gaga has thought about this and integrated the new Laboratorio logo into the buckle, available in either gray or black Saffiano leather straps.
motion
Flip the watch over and you’ll find another Gaga Laboratorio logo, this time in the form of a full-sized rotor. Other than this change, the La Joux-Perret G100 that powers the Labomatic appears to be largely unchanged, with minimal decoration peeking through the rotor gap. The movement has seen increased use since its recent arrival on the market, and is often used as a middle ground between the ETA 2824 and its derivatives, and the more exclusive ETA 2892/Sellita SW300 calibers. Specifications include a 4Hz beat rate and a 68-hour power reserve, with an architecture very similar to the Miyota 9000 series, with improved shock-proofing and regulator.
Verdict
Unusual designs are not uncommon in the micro/independent watch realm. What’s unusual is a good design that just happens to be unusual. Thankfully, the Gaga Laboratorio Lavormatic falls into the latter category, and is an exciting new contender, albeit a pricey one. Hiring Mo Coppoletta was clearly a beneficial move; the Lavormatic’s space-age designs certainly benefit from the tattoo artist and designer’s experience at the likes of Bvlgari. Its LJP movement is found in more affordable watches; especially considering that Gaga didn’t add the jumping hour modification, which is why the numerals are double-printed. This isn’t a big deal, however, as the movement is a solid performer and isn’t the main draw of this release in the first place.
Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Cinquanta and Bauhaus Pricing and Availability
The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic is currently available in two colors. Price: CHF 3,900 (excluding tax, approximately US$4,500)
Brand Gagà Laboratorio Model Labormatic Cinquanta
Labormatic Bauhaus Case Size 42mm (D) x 13.3mm (T) Case Material Stainless Steel Water Resistance N/A Crystal Sapphire Crystal Front and Back Dial Green, White, Gold (Cinquanta)
Black, silver (Bauhaus) Strap Black or grey Saffiano leather, steel pin buckle Movement La Joux-Perret G100, automatic Power reserve 68 hours Functions Digital hours, minutes and small seconds disc Availability Current price CHF 3,900 (excl. VAT)
