The Tom Austin Switzerland-based vintage-inspired Dissler Star Full Run Marie is back with a fresh Disco Volante. It features a much-loved 1930s disco volante case design from the 1930s, combined with precious gems and gorgeous stone dials, trying to take the brand to the next level. Diamond Again, Fran Mari proves that the rare exotica doesn’t have to be so exclusive.
At first you might not think of Furlan Marri as a disruptive brand. It can be argued that many vintage-inspired homage-style watches are, for all intents and purposes, rehashing watches that have emerged from a bygone era, and for some, raise the perspective that, for some, this is merely a copycat exercise. I propose that it is completely different, making the concept even more ironic. Furlan Marri’s continued success with these models proves that the market still wants designs inspired by these vintages, as certain brands are shooting more current watches in different directions. And it wants them a lot. Another problem with some watches inspired by Furlan Marri is that they need a salary that rivals the GDP of a small country, and I don’t gather any entertainment that is accessible to anyone.
This opinion may not be well received by some, but it comes from the perspective of real collectors with real-world budgets. Furlan Marri is destructive in solving some of these hiccups, offering an accessible, classy watch, and offers some of the most ultra exclusive watches, matching the price of the taste for most of us. Certainly, it may lack elusive brand cache and centuries-old backstory, but in reality there is an undertone that most of it is best known to be codswallop, so I’m fine with that. The simple fact is that Furlan Marri makes cool watches, and the latest stone-covered diamond-covered disco is probably the coolest.
case
Ah, Disco Volante emerged as an Art Deco masterpiece that swept the watch world in the 1930s after case shapes were reserved for Patek Philippe, Vatchelon Constantine, Audemars Piguet and others. Over time, several more brands introduced their own variations, but by the 1980s they abandoned designs in the shape of all flying saucers. Fast forward to 2024, Furlan Marri was reinvented as part of a vintage-inspired classic collection. Today, a new Disco Volante has been released, and a Disco Diamond Onyx is released, bringing new life to the classic design with the same 38mm 316L stainless steel circular case.
At 8.95mm thick, including dome-shaped sapphire crystal, the watch is worn very well, returning to vintage style, but with a modern twist. It’s not too small, but not too big. The small crown is set within the shape of a circular case, matching it with a simple round bezel to keep the design clean and tidy. The 50m water resistance means that the watch is a realistic and excellent everyday wearer, which includes features such as highly reflective sapphire crystal. A refined surface should hold anything without fingerprints. Because circular cases are a joy to deal with.
Dial
Furlan Marri’s current dials in the Disco Volante lineup are as traditional, intricate and detailed as they come, with large-scale printing, sectors and finishes. The range of colours is subtle yet fun, and is very reminiscent of the styles that have come to know the brand. However, this new dial is a major deviation from that. The Disco Diamond Onyx dial design is much cleaner and more tidy, with a simple, monochromatic layout clearly printed directly on deep black onyx stones. There are no numbers on the dial, and only printed tracks with long contrasting white hour markers, which is fantastic.
Of course, the outstanding features of the disco diamond are at 12, 2, 4, 8, and 10 o’clock. Furlan Marri turned to synthetic diamonds grown in this model’s lab. This is beginning to see more and more in the watch world, offering some sustainability-driven benefits and of course has a dramatic impact on the overall cost. But visually, in all accounts, diamonds are actually chemically and structurally the same, so their effects are as stunning as if they were natural diamonds. The diamonds placed on the black onyx dial are impressive, lending the watch a visual appeal reminiscent of the most exclusive Haute Hollogary work in recent history. Plus, the dial is even easier to read than the standard model and is an extra bonus.
strap
Disco Diamond has two strap options, making it difficult to choose which one is best. The case design features the strap edges set under the sides of the watch for a clean, seamless look, pairing it with both options in a great way. The first is a black textured Italian leather strap with vegetables attached and tidy black stitching. The straps are secured with a signed buckle with a brushed finish and detailed PVD coated. The second option is Furlan Marri’s fantastic stainless steel mesh bracelet, finished in 316L stainless steel to match the case. The bracelet is woven in a unique pattern that looks much better than most mesh bracelets seen on the market. Adjustable for size and comfort, with a brushed engraved buckle.
Movement
When you flip the watch over, the exhibition caseback reveals a mechanically damaged Pessex 7001 caliber attached inside. It’s not a groundbreaking move, but it’s tied to the traditional, vintage nature of watches. There’s nothing better than owning a vintage watch that requires windings and settings. It’s something collectors love, and the Pesuax caliber allows for that, but remains reliable and industrious. The movement has also been overhauled by Furlan Marri, and, as you would expect, adds detailed talent. It includes several redesigned and refined bridges that are lovingly diamond-painted, and will be finished by Geneve des Geneves and do their best to move in just as fun as before the watch. The movement offers only a 42-hour power reserve, which is not the most long-term, but it argues that wrapping it more frequently will help the wearer bond with more watches.
verdict
Furlan Marri employs classic and inaccessible designs to perfect the skills they offer to the masses, and disco diamond onyx is a complete natural advancement in this process. Not only is watches functional and wearable, they also take advantage of the aesthetics that are usually reserved for the ultra-exclusive ones. Certainly, it’s still a relatively expensive watch compared to the rest of the range, but the dial has semi-precious stones, and along with the large baguette-cut diamonds, you can easily see where the extra values are. The market now loves this type of watch, but it may not be seen frequently as it is made in a relatively limited number, but it is still a visually stunning watch with plenty of sex appeal. Furlan Marri now has his own solid collector base, and this new disco Volante is aimed at more hardcore FM fans. This is a watch you want to own when you already have a few other people from the collection and want something that really stands out really well.
Furlan Marri Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx Pricing and Availability
The Furlan Marri Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx is available through the Furlan Marri website or through the retailer of your choice and is made with a limited annual production number. Price: CHF 3,500
Brand Furlan Marri Model Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx Case Dimensions 38mm(d) x 8.95mm(T) x 38mm(LTL) Case Material 316L Stainless Steel Water Resistant 50m Crystal Crystal (S) Front and Back Dial Dial Dial Dial Dial Dial Dial Dial Dial Dial Diamond Diamond Diamond Mand Mand width width with stainless mash 7001, Handwound Power Reserve 42 Hour Functions from September 3rd, Availability of CHF 3,500