Borna Boschunjak
Looking back at the amount of excitement that has been created since the brand was founded, I think Furlan Marri has been around for a long time for just four years, along with achievements like the GPHG Awards and the evolution of the secular and enduring calendar. Still, you’re probably wrong. The duo of Andrea Fran and Hamad Al Mali don’t lead the most prolific independent brands in terms of release cadence, but considering how well-executed and manufactured watches are, you can hardly blame them. Whether you’re watching an entry-level mechacoltz chronograph, our own Outback Elegy collaboration, or hand-fished Pessex on the Disco Volante, I doubt you’ll be disappointed. Naturally, most people I know are like a bit of a snack for their birthday, and that’s not the exception to Fran Mari. To celebrate four years and its journey from Kickstarter Micro to major independence, the brand has announced Furlan Marri Red Hunter, and had the opportunity to spend time before the cover was unlocked.
case
A brief history lesson is appropriate before you enter the clock. Tips for what makes Red Hunter special are under its name, referring to early pocket watch styles that ultimately affect watches as well. Prior to the advent of portable sapphire crystals, it was fairly common to wear a metal lid to cover for additional protection, as Glass was one of the more vulnerable components. Also known as the Savonnette case (“Little Soap” in French), its popularity fades with the appearance of more advanced crystals, but does not disappear completely. Manufacturers such as Zurbrüegg and Huguenin Freres continued to create these cases in the early 1910s and patented designs. These days, only some pocket watches still have a front design on the dial, but both pocket and list watches have quite a few watches, adding an attractive touch to their casebacks, simply nodding to the past.
That’s exactly what Fran Mari did with Red Hunter. The 36mm case with a large screwed crown is reminiscent of early watches, perhaps inspired by a design that tells a generation or two after a trench watch with a pocket. I was also very happy to discover that the complexity of the additional cases did not add much thickness. The Red Hunter measures at a height of 11.6mm. However, it uses a short 43.9mm lug-to-lug width and its large crown.
What you may have seen strangely doesn’t show the press shots that you don’t see strangely is that the Red Hunter has excavated the rug. Certainly, the straps provided are already quick release equipment, but it is certainly the spirit of the time that influenced its design.
The finish is fantastic, as expected by Furlan Marri considering his previous efforts. A brushed midcase is sandwiched between two sophisticated elements. And speaking of casebacks, it really surprised me how reflexive it was. I think the above picture explains better than I can. Something about the photos and thousands of words…
Dial
The hinged caseback is a cute touch, but you spend most of your time looking at the dial. Certainly beauty may be in the eyes of the viewer, but if you don’t think this dial is beautiful, I honestly might have something that blurs your vision in your eyes. It’s a complex design, but with subtle details that don’t overwhelm each other. Minute tracks have a less noticeable off-white correct tone, with an elevated section of the time markers that prevents the dial from appearing flat. Cover it all with a black black lacquer and there’s a recipe for success.
Get even closer, I love the way Roman markers track the terrain of the dial, swelling as I pass through the raised sections. Lance’s mobile phone runs beautifully too. It’s rare to find small brands at a more affordable price. We pay very much attention to the hand design. Here, their convex shape gives a subtle presence, with the curved tips being cherry blossoms on top.
strap
The model landed in a Melbourne studio and was equipped with a grain black leather strap with red stitching to match the hand in the middle seconds. It will clean towards the clasp, but otherwise it is not a particularly interesting design feature, just an accompaniment to the main event.
What I want to experience in person immediately is that 5-link bracelets will also be available. Not only is it a new design from Furlan Marri, it also looks like a Riveted Design, but it’s rare these days. Tudor uses faux ribbet style for some of its Black Bay models. It’s used quite controversially, at least in the early stages of the model.
Movement
Currently, like the machine sector model renamed Cornes de Vache, Red Hunter is sportsing the automatic La Joux-Perret G100. This is an increasingly common move as an alternative to the proven ETA 2824 and Sellita SW200. That is, you’ll beat these two with a power reserve (68 hours vs. 38-42 hours) and a thickness (4.45mm vs. 4.6mm). The architecture of the G100 is very similar to that of the Miyota 9000, and the G100 has a great finish and a different regulator, but it makes sense considering the latter owns a movement maker.
The Red Hunter’s final Easter egg is hidden in the inverse of the hinged officer’s caseback. The brand’s 4th anniversary commemorative sculpture includes the inevitable number 4, and the slogan includes the “meticulously designed” slogan.
verdict
Watches are becoming more mainstream, but they are still quite niche products, so even small, independent brands like Furlan Marri need to make their designs appealing to the public. The Red Hunter feels like it’s perfectly compatible with the enthusiastic community, but with its small diameter (36mm is perfect if you ask me) and hinge caseback. I like to think of it as something like thanking the brand’s supporters and fans for their short but successful lifespans.
Furlan Marri Red Hunter Pricing and Availability
Furlan Marri Red Hunter will be available for pre-orders at Time+Tide Shop on 23 April at London Time (BST) or 23:00 Melbourne Time (AEST). Price: $3,490, £1,850
Brand Furlan Marri Model Red Hunter Case Dimensions 36mm(D) x 11.6mm(T) x 43.9mm(LTL) Case Stainless Steel Water Resistance TBC, Screw Down Crown Crystal Front and Back Dial Dial Dial Dial Lug Width 20mm Strap Black Calfskin, Steel Pin Buckle
Steel Five Link Bracelet, Folding Clip-on La Joux-Perret G-100, Automatic Power Reserve 68 Hours feature sets available pre-orders for hours, minutes and seconds starting 23/04/2025. 14:00 BST, 23:00 aest ase a $3,490
£1,850
