[F]Top 5 watches Fratello wants in 2025

Another Friday, another list! To start the new year, we decided to sum up our wishes for 2025. All of us at Fratello agree that 2024 will be a great year for watches. Some people like to define it by the waves made by big brands. But based on the sheer number of exciting releases we had in the office, tried out at shows and events, and featured on our website, we still wanted to see it in person. Our 2025 wish list includes things we writers would like to see (more of) in the world of watches, and things we’d like to see happen in the next 12 months. After a successful year in the watch industry, it’s no surprise that some of these wishes are based on what we see in 2024. I’m going to keep it short and concise today, so let’s get started right away.

1. Eliminate ridiculously long waiting lists

A phenomenon I wish would go away this year is the ridiculousness of some brands still having waiting lists for their watches. Yes, the market has changed quite dramatically and a large portion of the waiting list has disappeared over time. Despite this, some brands still have staggering backlists for standard models. Therefore, these watches are either not available or can only be obtained by paying an exorbitant premium over list price.

And if you decide to put your name on a long waiting list, you may have to endure multiple price increases and an overall loss of enthusiasm for the watch. The effect of this artificially created scarcity is no longer excitement, but discomfort. In today’s market, it has no place unless it’s about a very exclusive release. That’s why it’s time to eliminate long waiting lists.

2. A more special watch face

2024 saw the introduction of a variety of exotic dials. Stone dials in particular have had a big impact over the past 12 months. We applaud this development, as it’s hard not to fall in love with a good stone dial. From the classic lapis lazuli and tiger’s eye dial, reminiscent of 1970s style, to the stunning meteorite dial, which has a timeless appeal, there’s a lot to add to the watch’s visual magic.

Stone dials have a mesmerizing quality that makes you want to stare at the watch forever. The best part is that they are no longer only available on expensive watches. We’ve seen great stone dial watches from more affordable brands such as Denison, Baltic, Nivada Grenchen, and Toledano & Chan. The wide availability of stone dials is something we like for expensive and affordable watches alike. Stone dials always have space, so this is a development we hope continues in 2025.

3. Who needs a 2025 date window?

Before you scroll down to the comments section, we’re not against date windows. Not at all! There is a time and place for everything, including the complexity of dates. For example, a GMT without a date won’t work as a proper travel watch. And classic Rolex models with a Cyclops-enlarged date display just aren’t the same without one.

We also know that a date window is practical and ranks high on the list of people looking for a watch that ticks many boxes on the spec list. However, the actual need for a date window often seriously compromises its aesthetic appearance. Anyone can cite an example of a date window at 4:30 that feels like an afterthought, or a date window at 6 o’clock that seriously disrupts the vertical balance of the dial.

Several recent releases perfectly demonstrate the power of dateless dials. A case in point is the latest Omega Seamaster Diver 300M series, which benefits from a perfectly balanced dial without the date window at 6 o’clock like the regular model. Additionally, if you look at the 39mm Longines Legend Diver series, the 36mm and 42mm models with date windows look strange.

An example of a watch with a date display that we didn’t really like is the new black dial Breguet Classique 5177. This shows that not all watches require a date window. We understand the commercial appeal for brands to include it, and if they’re going to do it, we’d at least like an undated option. We don’t want as many date windows as we see on various watch releases each year.

4. Don’t focus on big money, focus on true enthusiasts.

Understood. Maximizing commercial potential is a focus for many brands. We’re not against it, but it’s just as important to keep our loyal enthusiasts involved. Especially if your watch brand has a passionate following, staying in touch with that demographic can and should be the basis of what makes your brand attractive to watch lovers. In the current climate, that feeling can sometimes be lost, especially when you look at some of the partnerships we see.

One example is the collaboration between Panerai and Prada. As Thomas asked in his article, who are these co-branded Luna Rossa watches for? It’s hard to believe that a true panelist would want to buy any of the models featured. The same was true of Audemars Piguet’s collaboration with Marvel Studios, which led to the Royal Oak Concepts Spider-Man and Black Panther models.

The same goes for Patek Philippe’s decision to introduce the Cubitas, which has sparked much debate, but true fans would like to see a return of the Nautilus in steel or a stronger emphasis on classic Patek models. Masu. We’re not here to debate the commercial potential of the watch or the brilliance of the watch, but it’s nice to feel like true fans aren’t just putting money above what they want. Again, it doesn’t have to be an either/or approach, but we would like watch brands to at least focus on retaining true enthusiasts and fostering a proper enthusiasm for their heritage. I am.

5. More affordable dress watches

One of the best and most surprising developments of 2024 was the introduction of some great, affordable dress watches. By now you know we’re fascinated by Echo/Neutra Rivera. If there was one affordable watch that got us all excited in 2024, it was the Italian brand’s first foray into a dress watch. Many readers agreed that it was a sophisticated take on what a modern dress watch can be while maintaining a very reasonable price.

But that wasn’t the only new dress watch that got our hearts racing. The Celica 1174 Parade was another great example of a watch that combines great style, contemporary presentation, and affordability.

But that’s not the end. Raymond Weil expanded its Millesime line last year to include even better models. Dennison mentioned above The stone dial model was also well received. Frederique Constant’s Moneta Moonphase immediately stood out. And Anoma A1 was another nice surprise.

The last 12 months have seen a flurry of great dress watches. In a world where dress watches aren’t needed as often, the affordable option is a welcome change. However, this new generation of dress watches also looks great with slightly more casual outfits. We definitely hope to see more watches like this in 2025.

Final thoughts on our wishes for 2025

Here’s my list of five things I’d like to see more or less in the world of watches this year. Of course, these topics are great springboards for longer discussions and more nuanced perspectives. But that’s not the purpose of these lists. They represent simple wishes and opinions that we often encounter and share. Naturally, the creation of this list prompted a lot of discussion in the Fratello office. They are all born out of our passion and love for watches, which is also where this list comes from. However, I would love to hear if you agree with my five wishes for 2025. Let us know in the comments section. I’ll be back next week with another list.