Another Friday, another list! Following last week’s Patek Philippe Nautilus list, we now move on to Rolex. This week, we dive into the world of vintage models that preceded the iconic watches we know today. Some have the same case and dial, but there is one simple difference. That is, there are no famous names as we know them today printed on the dial. However, other watches are markedly different watches that preceded the famous Rolex icons that followed. It’s time to learn more about Rolex’s “Pre-Icon” models.
Before we get into the list, it’s important to clarify that some of the watches featured here are actually considered part of Rolex’s most famous watch lineage. Keep in mind that we use the term “pre-icon” lightly, as, as mentioned above, the mere absence of a name on the dial could be reason enough to feature a watch on this list. Please stay. As we’ll see, most of these watches command high prices because Rolex fans value unusualness, and the market reflects that. However, some of them turn out to be among the best watches Rolex has ever created. So let’s get started.
Rolex (pre) Explorer ref. 6150
Let’s start this list with a Rolex reference. 6150, produced from 1952 to 1953 and also known as the “Pre-Explorer”. Interestingly, Rolex produced this reference alongside the first Explorer reference. 6350. The latter had the word “Explorer” on the dial, but the former did not. But it’s certainly a very similar watch. The same 35.5 mm case features an instantly recognizable black 3-6-9 dial, now referred to as the “Explorer Dial.” In terms of readability, Rolex has nailed it here.
However, the dial of the Ref. 6150 is different from the original Explorer. The dial of the Pre-Explorer has the words “Rolex Oyster Perpetual” engraved on the top half and “Precision” on the bottom half. The dial of the first Explorer Ref. 6350 is equipped with a “Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer” on the top half and a “certified chronometer” on the bottom half. In addition to the dial differences, another major difference between the two references is the movement.
Same movement but not a certified chronometer
Inside the case of Ref. The 6150 is powered by the automatic caliber A296, which also powers the Ref. 6150. 6350. The main difference is that Rolex has fine-tuned the movement of the reference hand. 6350 allows you to meet chronometer certification standards. As you can see, this describes the text on the bottom half of the dial on the original Explorer. However, if you know the history of the Explorer, you know that not all Pre-Explorer dials don’t have the “Explorer” designation. There are references. The 6150 has it, but it’s very rare.
As you might imagine, these references and variations are rare. And in the world of Rolex, “rare” means “expensive.” Expect asking prices for the Pre-Explorer 6150 to start around €35,000 and go up to €75,000 in good condition. Specimens in good condition or with special stories can be found at auction and easily fetched higher prices. No wonder, the first Explorer takes you back to the exciting days just after Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay climbed Mount Everest.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200
It’s just a small step to our second choice, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200. Enthusiasts will quickly understand why. The Rolex Submariner Ref. 6200 is the famous “King Sub” with the same 3-6-9 layout Explorer dial as the first watch on our list.
The reason this reference is called the “King Sub” is because it was the first Submariner to feature an 8mm “big crown” with the “Brevet” signature. Other Submariners with this oversized crown earned the benchmark. 6538 worn by Sean Connery as James Bond and the Judge. 5510. Needless to say, these watches are extremely popular among collectors.
referee. The 6200 had two dial variations. The first features only the Rolex logo, brand name, and “Oyster Perpetual” on the top half of the dial. However, the second model has the Submariner name on the bottom half of the dial. Rolex created the Ref. The 6200 was produced between 1955 and 1956, and the watch had a slightly thicker 38 mm case than its predecessor.
By combining the case and crown, we have achieved a water resistance depth of 200m. Inside the case, Rolex equips this watch with the caliber A296, which is also the same caliber that powers the Pre-Explorer we looked at earlier. The look is completed with the famous riveted Oyster bracelet, making this a true classic. Rolex produced a total of 303 pieces of this Ref. 6200 is one of the rarest Rolex Submariner models.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 6205
My next choice was another Submariner reference. The 6205 was introduced in 1954, but the initial dials did not have the word “Submariner” on them. This watch was produced for just one year, during which time Rolex produced 810 pieces of this reference. With this in mind, you’ll notice that there are very few 6205s with “submariner-less” dials.
The watch had a 38 mm stainless steel case with a small crown and was water resistant to 100 meters. This reference was one of the so-called “Small Crown Submariners” and was powered by Rolex’s caliber A260. This movement is generally considered an upgrade from the A296 found in the Ref. 6200. The first 6205 had a pencil needle, like the example in these photos, while the later 6205 had a Mercedes needle. However, most dials without the word “Submariner” are combined with the former.
Currently, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 6205 is mainly found at auctions and fetches high prices. Most sell for between €100,000 and €200,000, with some examples in mint condition commanding even higher prices. The Rolex Reference 6204, on the other hand, is known as the first Submariner. The 6205, which does not have the word “Submariner” on the dial, is a rarer and more sought-after watch.
Rolex “Predaytona” Ref. 6238
The next watch is my favorite on this list. This is one of my top 3 vintage Rolex watches overall, along with the Explorer II reference. 1655 and GMT Master Ref. 1675. Two years ago, I wrote a love letter about the Rolex Chronograph Ref. 6238 “Pre-Daytona”. In it, I explained in detail why I love this watch so much. The style, the legendary movement, and the different versions produced by Rolex make for a great watch. Plus, it’s the only watch on this list that qualifies as strictly a Pre-Icon. Because this watch is the predecessor to the iconic Daytona.
This watch was produced from 1962 to 1968 and led to the introduction of the Daytona Ref. However, the production period overlaps with the Daytona, which was introduced in 1963. But there’s a clear reason people call it the “Pre-Daytona.” Simply put, it bridged the style gap between the old-school Rolex chronographs of the 1950s and the more modern-style Daytona. referee. 6238 had a 36 mm case with a smooth bezel and a tachymeter scale printed on the dial.
“Pre-Daytona” Ref. 6238 bridges the gap
During the six years that the 6238 was in production, Rolex produced perhaps 3,500 stainless steel pieces. Additionally, the brand also produced a small number of pieces in yellow and rose gold. Where things get a little more complicated is the number of dial variations. Rolex has carried out at least 14 executions. The steel model was available with silver, gray, and black dials, each with its own unique feel. My favorite is the gray and black dial version, but it’s also the hardest one to find. The silver dial version is the easiest to find.
For the first time, Rolex has equipped these watches with the legendary Valjoux 72. However, later versions were equipped with the latest Valjoux 722. This iconic chronograph movement later powered the famous Daytona as well as chronographs from Breitling, Heuer, Longines, Galette and Universal Genève.
In my opinion, this is the best chronograph Rolex has ever made. Although it has the nickname “Pre-Daytona,” I like this model better than any other vintage Daytona. As for the asking price, expect it to start at 35,000 euros and go up to 200,000 euros for the steel version or gold model with a black dial. It will cost a lot of money, but you will get a legendary watch.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6239
Let’s talk about legendary watches! The last model I chose was the first-generation Daytona Ref. 6239, which follows the “Pre-Daytona” I mentioned earlier. If you’re a Rolex enthusiast, you’ll know that multiple Daytona references feature dials without the Daytona name. However, it only makes sense to choose the first reference. When referring to references. 6239 When it comes to watch fans, most people immediately think of the Paul Newman model. But before the exotic dial was introduced, Rolex introduced a regular version without the “Daytona” text. The reason is simple: Rolex got its name from its sponsorship of the 24 Hours of Daytona. However, that partnership began after the introduction of umpires. 6239.
The watch featured a 37mm stainless steel case with a steel tachymeter bezel and pump-style pushers. Rolex introduced watches with black dials with silver subdials, white dials with black subdials, and silver dials with black subdials. Of course, these early versions didn’t have the word “Daytona” on them. To be honest, I always thought that placing the model name above the register at 6 o’clock was not the best choice.
The proof came in the form of the word “Daytona” written on the top half of the dial, below “Cosmograph.” The dial without the word “Daytona” looks very clean and links the watch nicely with the Pre-Daytona reference. 6238.
There’s a reason for the legend
Inside the case is the Valjoux Caliber 722. This hand-wound column-wheel chronograph operated at 18,000 revolutions per hour, had 17 jewels and a 48-hour power reserve. As mentioned earlier, this is a legendary movement found in many cult classic watches. But for a more general audience, this is the famous caliber that powered the hand-wound Daytona.
The original Daytona is one of the industry icons, and you can see that reflected in the price. As you might expect, the non-exotic dial version is more ‘affordable’, with an asking price of approximately between €50,000 and €125,000. This price range includes versions with and without “Daytona” on the dial. I prefer this, but I think something with “Daytona” written on the top half of the dial would be even better.
Final thoughts on our list of Top 5 Rolex “Pre-Icon” Models
Here is a list of the top 5 Rolex watches that don’t physically have the famous names we know today. As usual, multiple references do not have the model name on the dial, so this list could be even longer. Another example is the Daytona Ref. 6264 and ref. 6265. Additionally, the Rolex reference 6265 has an interesting story. 5500 known as Air King. However, this is not the end as we also know that there is a version with a 3-6-9 dial that is essentially a smaller sized Explorer. But that’s enough for today. Next question. Which of these five watches is your favorite? Let us know in the comments. See you next week with another list.