There is no official announcement regarding a new release from the reborn Universal Geneve, but there is news. To refresh memory, Breitling purchased the brand from Stelux Holdings in December 2023. It has been revealed that the new model will not appear until 2026 along with licensed retailers. However, three “new” one-off SAS Polar references appeared in 2024, celebrating the 70th anniversary of the SAS Transportation Flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles.
It’s been quiet since the SAS Polar Trio debuted in November 2024. However, Universal Geneva aims to auction the auction dress at the Philips Geneva Watch Auction.
SAS Polar Water Trio
It was easy for three pole users to make their debut in Copenhagen, Denmark, to mistake the piece for a vintage 50s model. However, Universal Geneve created a new case that is faithful to the original. The brand also used Metier Dirt on the dials of each watch, including the Guilloche Rehout. The 35mm x 45.4mm watch trio debuted in 18K red gold, stainless steel and 18K white gold. Finally, each uses a fully renovated vintage caliber 1-69 microterm movement, with a frequency of 18,000 Vph and a 57-hour power reserve.
But the white gold model brings something different. The steel and 18K red gold pieces are paired with leather straps, while the white gold model has a matching mesh bracelet. One of the few remaining Swiss chain manufacturers, Laurent Joliet, created this incredible accessory by hand.
See more Laurent Joliet bracelets
Buying a mesh bracelet is a simple and inexpensive venture. However, considering handmade articles increases complexity exponentially. Joliet learned his craft from Gay Frey and now has his workshop in Geneva. Creating a SAS polar mesh bracelet is a multi-faceted procedure. 18k white gold wire drawing, wrapped around the mandrel, requires some filing and polishing process.
Note that these processes must be repeated for each strand. The result is a finely crafted, durable bracelet. Joliet often spends a month or two on each bracelet! Now, lucky bidders have the opportunity to own and see the bracelet.
White gold model heads for auction in Geneva
In Copenhagen’s event and press material, Universal Geneve revealed that the stainless and red gold models will eventually become part of the brand’s archives. However, the white gold model has always been destined to auction. Philips Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, one-time SAS Polar goes under the hammer. This watch is listed in 75 lots out of a total of 194 lots, with an estimate of CHF between 25,000 and 50,000. All proceeds go to CFP Arts in Geneva, an educational school that teaches applied arts such as chainmaking.
SAS Polar and Sales Thoughts
The SAS Polar Water trio is important for multiple reasons. The level of each finish gives us a hint of what Universal Geneve will bring when the production model arrives in 2026. But more monumental is that the white gold SAS poleter becomes the sole privately owned example of brand returns. It makes it very special and the estimate will probably be crushed.
As for potential buyers of SAS Polar, we can only speculate. Vintage Universal Geneve Collectors are probably interested. There is also a link to a famous exploit about air travel, which can cause a bid. Finally, there is the charity aspect that allows you to gain support. Who wins the watch, and at any price, it will become a special part of the collection. I hope to see the watch in the future.
