Are you looking to end the year on a high note? If so, why not give that watch a whirring sound that, for whatever reason, never made it to your wrist? It’s not too long ago that I missed an opportunity, so I have three favorite used watches on my hit list. There’s also the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 8 Days Power Reserve, the XL Radiomir 1940, and, sadly absent from the current lineup, the Rolex Taograph.
In the early 2000s, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Reverso 8 Days Power Reserve (ref. 240.8.14) was introduced, and 11 pieces are currently available on Chrono24 for between 6,000 and 8,000 euros. This steel watch is funky and chunky, measuring 46.5 mm long, 29.2 mm wide, and 12.2 mm thick.
Image: Swiss Watch Expo
Some of my favorite used watches include the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Reverso 8 Days Power Reserve
This particular Reverso has a porthole on the back through which the power reserve is digitally displayed in days. It looks great and different, and that’s what I like about this watch. It’s not something you see very often, but the Reverso 8 Days Power Reserve is a hand-wound model, so it’s a nice touch to appreciate. Non-automatic mechanical movements require direct operation, making watches more accessible. Operating this hand-wound Reverso is even more enjoyable thanks to the digital power reserve indicator.
Image: Swiss Watch Expo
Another feature of this Reverso is the off-center sub-seconds register. Looks destructive without being too unpleasant. Both eccentric features are powered by the JLC in-house caliber 874 from the Eight Days family. The 210-component, 25-jewel movement uses two barrels and runs at 28,800 revolutions per hour.
My XL used selection: Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Marina Militare Acciaio PAM00587
The Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Marina Militare Acciaio PAM00587 is also quirky, but far more megalomaniac. It’s a shame that the Radiomir 1940 is not in the Panerai catalogue. I’ve always liked the Transition case, which has the elegance of Radiomir’s cushion-shaped case but eliminates the wire lugs, which make it look a little flimsy. Instead, it has much sturdier, thicker lugs than the Luminor, but it eschews the signature crown protector, which I think is a little too visually impactful.
The 2014 PAM00587, found 14 times on Chrono24, is a 47mm steel diver’s watch that is water resistant to 100 meters. The first is an impressive number, the second is not. I know that, but I can still live with it. I don’t wear it every day, and I don’t dive deeper than 100 meters, so this size is fine.
This is a very attractive watch with a functional and simple look. The black dial has a sober and delicate design with only large linear indexes and Arabic numerals at the base. Thanks to the large size of the dial and its sandwich construction, consisting of stacked discs with Super-LumiNova in between, it is highly legible in all lighting conditions and is visible through the index- and numeral-shaped apertures. Another nice thing about it is that it doesn’t have a brand name on it. It is historically correct, including the use of warped plexiglass over the dial instead of a sapphire crystal. Well, crystals used to be made of polymethyl acrylate, but let’s not get too picky. The warm rose gold color of the thin hands also resonates with my nostalgic heart.
big clock, big machine
The in-house caliber P.3000 is embedded in the case and visible through the sapphire crystal on the case back. The hand-wound 3Hz movement’s two barrels provide a healthy three-day power reserve. Although we don’t see much action, it’s still an impressive move. However, you can still see the oscillations of the Glucydur balance between the wide satin finish that covers almost everything and the blue engraved bridges. The large, robust movement, made up of 161 parts, also features neat and delicate mechanisms. The time adjustment mechanism allows the hour hand to be adjusted independently of the minute hand, one hour at a time.
Radiomir 1940 3 Days Marina Militare Acciaio PAM00587 is a special edition of 1,000 pieces in 2014, featuring a dark brown calfskin strap with ecru stitching, hot-stamped ‘OP’ logo and trapezoidal 22mm polished pin buckle. It is attached. When I purchased this watch from AD, it came with an extra plexiglass crystal. Ten years ago, PAM00587 had a list price of 9,400 euros, but now it sells in Europe for between 7,650 euros and 9,890 euros.
Image: Bob’s watch
The chic and “tool-like” Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph 116264 is another favorite second-hand item.
The case size of 36 x 11.7 mm is chic, but the origin is “tools”. The Rolex Turn-Ograph Ref. 6202 debuted in 1953 as the first Rolex watch with a rotating timing bezel. However, perhaps because it looked so much like the Submariner, Rolex changed the design and introduced the Datejust Turn-O-Graph Ref. The following year 6309. The watch became known as the Thunderbird after members of the U.S. Air Force’s Thunderbird aerobatic squadron began wearing it, which led to the introduction of standards. 6609 from the late 50’s. The bezel was intended to allow pilots to measure increments of time while in the air. Datejust Turn-O-Graph Ref. 116264 What I want is a modern take on the classic Thunderbird. The top of the 904L steel case features an 18K white gold fluted rotating bezel with 5- and 10-minute scales.
You can choose from three dial colors: black, white, and blue. I choose the white version. Because it pairs perfectly with the red central seconds hand and date wheel. The combination of red hands and sparkling blue dial looks too bright and colorful and takes the watch too far from its origins. However, the black dial version is a bit bland for my tastes. I also feel that the white dial is more suited to what a pilot who makes a living doing loops and barrel rolls would wear.
Image: 2nd movement
last generation
The wide lug case emphasizes its functional heritage and is perfect for pairing with an Oyster bracelet. And while I probably won’t be using the 60-minute rotating bezel to measure elapsed time, I like the instrumentation aspect of this gold-topped watch. The 116264 I’m looking at was released in 2000 and was the last generation of Turn-O-Graph. In 2011, Rolex decided to discontinue production of this watch, and to date there is no successor model. Just like Milgauss, I’m worried that Taograph may have gone the same way as the Dodo. This makes Turn-O-Graph more desirable.
Image: 2nd movement
Inside the Turn-O-Graph 116264 is the Caliber 3135, which debuted in 1988. This 4Hz movement has been around for over 20 years and has proven to be one of the best movements Rolex has ever created.
On Chrono24, we found 176 Turn-O-Graph 116264 models in all three dial colors. Now you just have to make sure you are willing to pay around 650 euros to 8000 euros. Would you do that? What do you think of my other two used favorites? Let me know in the comments.
