Borna Bosniak
When you think of Franck Muller, you probably think of uniquely shaped cases, stylized Art Deco numerals, and perhaps a plethora of complications. That’s not surprising. It is this look that has brought the brand to where it is today. But Franck Muller has also taken a more avant-garde path these days, and I’m not just talking about cigarette lighters. Models such as the Vanguard Color Dream and the Grand Central Tourbillon Flash rely on the classic Franck Muller spirit of unique shapes and complications, while pushing the limits of materials and technology even further. The newest addition to the line is the recently launched Franck Muller Long Island Evolution in the form of an FM square case. Today we’ll focus on the simplest of the three new watches, the time-limited 7-day power reserve model. This model doesn’t seem to utilize many of Franck Muller’s signature features, but that’s not a bad thing.
dial
Starting with the dial, the elongated Roman numerals of the regular Long Island model are long gone, and printed floating Arabic letters are placed on a transparent sapphire base, giving it an almost three-dimensional 3D look. have. Stylistically, it immediately recalls the rev counters of mid-2000s sports cars. Think of the 986 Porsche Boxster. It’s a bit campy, but it definitely has that 90’s or 1990’s throwback look to it. The curved main sapphire crystal and sapphire dial reveal some of the movement’s components, namely the skeletonized barrel at 12 o’clock that provides a long power reserve.
The most surprising thing for a watch that isn’t ostensibly sporty is how bright the lume is. There are no applied indexes at all, but thanks to the sapphire dial, the brilliance of the printed numerals and hands actually illuminates some of the components, such as the motion work.
case
The biggest change other than the new look of the dial is, as the name suggests, the reworked Long Island case. Franck Muller is particularly proud of its new inner case construction, which “enhances the safety and shock protection of the movement” and “allows the sapphire crystal that protects the watch’s display to be mounted on the flange without any visible fixing screws.” I think so. To be honest (see what I did there?), I’m not really sure why this new construction is so good about these two things in particular, but it does give the watch a cool, layered look. I’m sure there are. The main curved sapphire sits atop an anodized aluminum inner case and flanks the aforementioned sapphire dial. It’s all very complex, but it doesn’t feel overly engineered.
If you’re familiar with Long Island and take a look at Evolution’s profile, you might be surprised at how similar the two actually are. The curved shape and attached lugs remain the same, but the look of the watch changes completely. The black PVD surface of the titanium Long Island Evolution case completely transforms the watch, a great show of how truly new materials can transform a watch. The dimensions are reasonable: width 33.7mm, top and bottom 45.3mm (lugs are slightly protruding), and thickness 12.2mm. That being said, due to the curved case and rectangular shape, the wear on the Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve is much greater than the measurements indicate.
strap
The 7 Days Power Reserve is fitted with a black alligator leather strap with green rubber edges and fastens with a folding titanium clasp. While it’s a perfect choice stylistically, the watch’s 30 meter water resistance means you won’t be heading out on any underwater adventures anytime soon, so I had other reasons for choosing the rubber-backed leather strap. I wonder if it is.
movement
As the brand’s press materials suggest, the reason for redesigning the case and adding an inner case was to better fit and protect the molded movement. In this case, this movement is a variation of the FM 17XX that we have previously seen in various works by Franck Muller, with a very long 7-day power reserve, here given the designation MVT FM 1745 . While not quite as openwork as the Vanguard Color Dream mentioned in the intro, it does feature some skeleton work, mainly on the running train visible through the display case back. Overall, the style of decoration is contemporary, but I feel like there are traditional elements that are missing given the standards of Franck Muller’s haute horlogerie, such as the internal corners and more pronounced bevels on the bridges.
The highlight in terms of specs is the long mainspring visible through the skeletonized barrel (actually there are two) and the impressive power reserve, supported by the slow beating of the balance at 18,000 vph.
judgment
It would be difficult to place this watch in any particular category. It’s not a sports watch due to the leather strap and lack of water resistance, and it’s not a dress watch due to its design. Like other Franck Muller designs, it sits in this high-end space where watches don’t have to fit into a category to appeal to the wearer. If you want a sports watch, buy a Submariner. If you want a dress watch, get a tank. Long Island Evolution, and Franck Muller more generally, probably won’t be on the radar of anyone looking to simply check a category box. For a titanium three-hander, the price may seem steep based purely on paper specs, but if you want to buy anything Franck Muller sells, there’s only one place to go. So while its visual cues may not match the instantly recognizable Franck Muller form factor, its purpose is very much in line with the brand.
Franck Muller Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve Price and Availability
The Long Island Evolution Collection is exclusive to Asia Pacific and the 7 Day Power Reserve is limited to 300 pieces. Price: AU$72,000 (~US$48,000)
Brand Franck Muller Model Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve Reference LI 33 S6 SQT NR BR (VR) Case dimensions 33.7mm (W) x 12.2mm (T) x 45.3mm (L) Case material Black PVD Titanium and green anodized Treated aluminum Water resistance 30 meters Crystal Sapphire obverse and reverse Dial Sapphire, numeral print Strap Alligator leather, PVD Black Titanium Pin clasp Movement MVT FM 1745, manufactured in-house, hand-wound Power reserve 168 hours (7 days) Functions Hours, minutes, small seconds In stock Number: 300 pieces Price: AUD 72,000