Panerai is known for its Navy SEAL collection, created in honor of and in the spirit of the United States Navy SEALs. The brand recently released a quartet of new models within its adventure-focused collection. This time, the watch has a desert-themed design with beige accents and a desert camo strap.
This release consists of four new references: the time-only PAM01518 in steel, the time and date PAM01669 in titanium and Carbotech, the chronograph PAM01521 in titanium, and finally the GMT PAM01513 in Carbotech. There’s a lot to unpack, so let’s dive right in!
Panerai Submersible Quaranta Quattro Navy Seals PAM01518
Reference PAM01518 forms the entry to this new subcollection (just kidding, sorry). This is currently the only base submersible without a date, resulting in a clean yet asymmetrical dial. The stainless steel case measures 44mm in diameter and 13.3mm thick, excluding the large crown lock. Panerai specifies a generous depth of 300 meters, with a sapphire crystal and steel screw-down caseback sandwiching the midcase and movement.
There’s nothing new to mention here when it comes to this move. Inside is the familiar automatic caliber P.900 with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations and three days of autonomy. This is the Panerai version of the Richemont Group Caliber.
Next, let’s talk about the appearance of this watch. This is the biggest attraction here. You get a grainy vignette dial that deepens from gray to black. It also comes in a beige luminous color that matches the beige desert camo fabric insert on the rubber strap. A crosshair on the subdial and a “NAVY SEALS” signature complete the theme. The price of PAM01518 is 10,400 euros.
Panerai Submersible Navy Seals Titanio PAM01669
Next up is the PAM01669 in grade 5 titanium with Carbotech unidirectional rotating bezel. Carbotech is Panerai’s proprietary carbon and resin material. It is constructed from sheets of carbon rather than the flakes found in forged carbon watches. The result is a simpler, more layered aesthetic. This PAM01669 has a case diameter of 47mm, so the lightness of titanium is required. Panerai doesn’t specify the thickness, but it’s safe to assume it won’t slip under a shirt sleeve. You get the same hidden case back and the same 300m water resistance rating, although this time it’s made of titanium.
Inside is the automatic caliber P.9010. There is some confusion in the watch world regarding this caliber, as it appears that the hacking feature was removed at some point. However, Panerai clearly states that there is a “second hand stop device”. Therefore, we need to be able to accurately set this 4Hz movement before rewinding the twin barrels to achieve 3 days of autonomy.
You get the same aesthetic recipe: vignette dial, beige lume, crosshairs, and desert camouflage strap. This time, it also has a date window at 3 o’clock and a cool-looking Carbotech bezel. PAM01669 costs 13,900 euros.
Panerai Submersible Chrono Navy Seals Titanio PAM01521
Now, what if you like the look of these watches, but want something more complicated? Look no further than the Navy Seals Chronograph PAM01521.
This 47mm blacked-out titanium beast has some party tricks up its sleeve. The flyback chronograph has a third pusher at 4 o’clock that allows the central minute hand to jump backwards in one-minute increments. This means you can use your chronograph to count down to your event. The automatic caliber P.9100/R achieves this outstanding feature.
Considering the 9mm thickness of the caliber and the 500m depth rating of the case, you can only assume that this is a pretty chunky watch. If I can actually touch it someday, I will definitely try measuring it. The price of PAM01521 is 35,000 euros.
Submarine Quaranta Quattro GMT Navy Seals Carbotech PAM01513
Last but not least is the new Quaranta Quattro GMT, fully carbotech. It uses the familiar 44mm Submersible QuarantaQuattro package, but is made from lightweight layered carbon. Inside is the caliber GMT, which powers PAM01518, and the date version, caliber P.900/GMT.
As mentioned earlier, Panerai has layered carbon sheets to give it its signature striped look. The case features overlapping horizontal layers, while the bezel features cuts at different angles. In my personal opinion, the resulting uneven stripes look very cool.
The Navy Seals Carbotech GMT costs 20,100 euros.
first impression
Let’s start with a point of criticism so we can end on a positive note. I’m not sure I like the Navy SEAL connection. There is a distinct difference between military-issued watches and military-approved watches. These were simply inspired by the Navy SEALs and applied their branding. Some may find this a bit tone-deaf given the state of the world, and that’s understandable. If Panerai watches actually save lives in combat, believe it. But as with any adventurous branding, I’m not sure…
That being said, I really like the resulting aesthetic. The beige luminous color doesn’t look patina and goes well with the desert camouflage vibe of the T-shirt. I can live with a vignette dial, but anyone who reads my writing knows this is a big statement from me. To me, this design comes most alive when paired with a darker Carbotech and blacked out titanium case.
What do you think about the new Panerai Submersible Navy Seals model? Let us know in the comments section below.
