Admittedly, I have never featured Moritz Grossmann watches. However, a few weeks ago I received an email that bothered me. The new Benu 37 Arabian Vintage may look simple, but there’s a lot to discover.
The name Moritz Grossmann is steeped in history. In 1854, Grossmann founded his atelier in Glashütte and began producing some of the world’s finest watches. Before his death in 1885, he founded the German School of Watchmaking, which continued under various names until 1992. Christine Hutter then re-founded the brand as Moritz Grossmann Uhlen GmbH in 2008, and its first watch, the Benue, debuted in 2010. Today’s 37 Arabian Vintage was born from that line.
Detailed background on Moritz Grossmann
I did a little research on Moritz Grossman and manufacturing. The brand prides itself on its in-house vertical production. As far as I know, the movement is made, decorated and assembled internally. The needles are also made in the brand’s workshop. It is estimated that approximately 200 pieces are produced each year. Yes, these are special and expensive pieces.
Benu 37 Arabia Vintage
What caught my eye on the Benue 37 Arabia Vintage were the Breguet numerals. I’m a fan of this style, and when I saw the words “Moritz Grossmann” on the dial, I knew this wasn’t your typical field watch. That assumption was an incredible understatement. As the name of the watch suggests, the diameter is 37mm. It measures 46mm in length and comes with a brown kudu leather strap with a pin buckle. So far it seems like a no-brainer.
What a dial!
Visually, the 37 Arabic Vintage dial sets it apart from other Benu watches. Like many parts made by Glashütte, it is made of German silver. This application is untreated and has a rough matte black finish. However, the Arabic numerals, brand name, minute track, and center hole are all raised. These do not apply. Black engraving is a heat treatment that creates color and a matte surface. The brand name is also expertly engraved and has been in the same font since 1875.
Look at the consistent diagonal brushing on the surface of the numbers. The detailed work is amazing! Along with Laurent Ferrier, Moritz Grossman’s hand ranks among my favorites. It is slender, with an elegantly thick section in front of the tip. Our craftsmen create these steel needles in-house. They go through many difficult steps and use wooden wheels to create the chamfer. Finally, the needle undergoes annealing.
Brushed 37mm steel case
The Benu 37 Arabia Vintage comes with a finely brushed stainless steel case. It strikes a good balance between a dressy atmosphere and, dare I say it, a military atmosphere. The generously sized lugs curve downward to hug your wrist. The brushed, rounded bezel gives the watch a slightly softer look, while the flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating provides a clear view of the dial. The raised crown tapers to a domed, unsigned top. Enough for winding work, but not too big.
beautiful movement
The Benu 37 Arabia Vintage is only 9.2 mm thick, thanks to the beautiful 4 mm thick hand-wound caliber 102.1. This in-house movement is made of German silver. It features a classic Glashütte two-thirds plate with a hand-finished surface and an engraved balance cock. Notice that some of the 22 jewels are gold chatons. Secondly, this movement has a frequency of 21,600vph and a power reserve of 48 hours. After assembling 188 parts, the watchmaker adjusted the movement into five positions. Moritz Grossmann has developed a new asymmetric arm escapement that significantly improves impact behavior. Learn more about this move here.
final thoughts
The price of the Moritz Grossmann Benu 37 Arabia Vintage is 39,700 euros. This makes it an expensive proposition. However, it is in the same range as other luxury watch brands, including Laurent Ferrier. This watch has a simple design, but like many of these luxury items, the devil is in the details. The dial has great one-piece construction and surface detail. I also like the case size. Next is movement. Some people criticize Glashütte watches for not having bridges, but the brand adds a satisfying level of hand-finishing. What do you think about this watch? Would you like to see more of Moritz Grossmann’s work featured?