[F]More surprising releases from Rolex, Omega, and more

To be honest, 2024 didn’t exactly bring optimistic forecasts from brands, so I wasn’t expecting any big changes. Watches and Wonders is packed with evolved watches and well-thought-out improvements, and the most surprising releases of 2024 so far have caught us off guard. This relatively quiet year may not have taken much to wow me, but I’m still impressed, and even more surprising releases are on the way.

I love receiving cool surprises on my wrist, and I’ve had plenty of them in the past that have me going wild. Consider this story part two of the great article my colleague Jorg wrote back in June. So far, I’m happy to praise brands for getting our attention through their own efforts, and I’ve seen some great surprises that have completely changed my perception of a brand, like Rolex’s guilloche surprise.

Credor locomotive

The Credor Locomotive is a classic along with the Piaget Polo ’79, which coincidentally was based on the original from the same year. Credor remains a niche brand in the larger European and US markets. Most brands focus on ultra-thin dress watches, often with the added allure of hand-painted porcelain dials. With the unusually named Locomotive, Seiko is taking the smaller luxury brand in a fresh direction. The hexagonal case is reminiscent of 1979, and the bracelet is connected in a Cartier Pasha-like manner (even though the Pasha didn’t come out until 1985). The bracelet links are very similar to the venerable Royal Oak, a big hint at its origins.

Is this Credor’s true European conquest watch, or is it a mixed bag? After all, it’s a pure reproduction of its 1979 predecessor, without holding back a millimeter of its quirky charm. I knew I was in love at first sight. It looked familiar, after all, because this is a design born from the magical pen of our beloved 1970s chic wizard, Gerald Genta. The watch has been tweaked for today, with a 38.8 mm case in high-strength titanium, an undoubtedly sportier choice than the steel of the original, and polished in a way only the best Seiko craftsmen know how.

Its 41.7mm length and lack of traditional lugs make it feel compact, and the dial with its radial pattern is enigmatic. Also, the rounded block-like indexes and faceted hands reminiscent of the Nautilus give it a sporty vibe. I am jealous of Jorg’s hands-on experience and look forward to seeing this watch in person. The price of 14,000 euros is not affordable in itself, but is it? Given the limited edition of 300 pieces of the Credor Locomotive and the powerful force of Gerald Genta’s signature, this watch is quite a value compared to his more universal designs. For me, the combination of Credor quality, comfortable size, and IYKYK value makes the Locomotive a winner.

Anomaly A1

Aren’t new small brands always going to come up with unexpected designs? I agree, but this year even the smallest brands played it safe. The Anoma stands out in its curvaceousness, cashing in on the interest in odd designs like the Cartier Pebble. Asymmetry can often lead to confusion and illegibility, but in rare cases like the Anoma A1 (no pun intended), it works perfectly. With a sleek triangular shape reminiscent of the 1950s, it’s better than the Hamilton Ventura, which is also famously triangular. The triangular case concept and orientation is the opposite of the Hamilton’s association with Elvis, and the Anoma A1 is very different overall.

Are lugless watches the new trend? Just look at Furlan Mari’s sleek, circular Disco Volante. The British Anoma is a piece of midcentury modern transparency. The two offset triangles make a strong first impression, and the 39mm case lacks a bezel as such. There’s a smooth transition to the dial opening that could mirror the edge of the case; instead, it’s offset by three or four degrees. The overall effect is balanced by a strong dial design, which speaks volumes about the design efforts of the Anoma team.

The dial features a strong crosshair design with long quadrant markers that draws the eye to the center, where two domed leaf hands are found. The five-minute index is asymmetrical in size and position, which can make it difficult to quickly read the time. Still, the quadrants and crosshairs create a stunning illusion of perfect symmetry, tying everything together. The slim 9.45mm thickness makes the A1 a comfortable wrist companion, and its blue dial captivated me. I can expect more amazing releases from this British brand in the near future.

Zenith Defy Skyline Ceramic

Ceramic case and bracelet designs tend to fall into two camps. Most people think of the high-tech world of ’80s pioneers Rado, or the full-color wizardry of Hublot. Zenith isn’t the first brand that springs to mind, but the brand has dabbled in ceramic in the past. This year, the brand surprised us with its first dive watch in years and a vibrant white version of the Skyline, which I’m going to call the “Stormtrooper.”

The Skyline is Zenith’s modern, everyday sports watch. It has the angular style and pleasing presence that characterizes the Defy series, and I’m a fan. The star-spangled standard version feels special. With the launch of the skeleton version, the brand has taken it to the next level while still maintaining its elegance, but I didn’t expect a ceramic version.

I’m not a big fan of pure white watches, but this one still appealed to me. Sure, it’s a more expensive to produce version of the smash hit Defy Skyline Skeleton, but there’s more to it than that. If you like the feel of scratch-resistant ceramic, the cool vibe, and the polarizing aesthetic, there aren’t many other options. The pure white Defy Skyline Skeleton has a deep blue openwork dial, and while it’s not an everyday watch, I’m a big fan of its comfortable case shape. And who knows? Maybe a blackout version will be next. That would be pretty cool. For now, I like the clean contrast between the arctic white and the deep blue.

OMEGA Specialities Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition

Surprise releases can come in many forms: asymmetrical, high-tech, and not-so-groundbreaking. The final two watches in this story are thoroughly classic in design, yet surprisingly fresh and unexpected. This speaks more to our obsession with sports and dive watches than anything else, and Omega does it so well. I was drawn to this watch at the opposite end of the spectrum, in vibrant bronze gold with a resolutely modern movement.

Omega embraced precious metals with Olympic fervor this year, and while I found the Speedmaster Chronoscope a bit too bulky (for me) with my heavy moonshine gold suit, this new “BG 859” won me over. The 39mm case is a tad too large for the early midcentury vibe—it was inspired by the 1939 reference CK 859, after all—but its proportions are a great match for the warm bronze gold, Omega’s proprietary alloy that contains 37.5% gold.

Although the guilloché is stamped, not guilloched, the Clou de Paris has French roots, as the name suggests. It’s a watch worthy of the Paris Olympics. As Rex cheekily suggested in his article, Omega could have cheated with a stamped dial. However, the circular brushed silver periphery is a perfect contrast to the PVD bronze gold spear-shaped hands and warm case. The choice of 39mm size is also due to the latest hand-wound Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8926, which pays homage to the famous original 30T2.

Rolex Perpetual 1908

I’ll admit that I was never a true Rolex fan until a fun event a few years ago with emojis and OP color balloons on the dial. I’m all for brand-agnostic fun, and the craze for the full gold Deepsea surprised many fans. I would have added it here if my good friend Jorg hadn’t mentioned it in his story back in June. But I’ll be honest, the unexpected appearance of the icy blue guilloché made my heart skip a beat.

I already had the Perpetual 1908 as one of my favorite Rolex models, especially the understated white gold version. But the deep rice grain guilloche was unexpected on the level of a Rolex Cellini Prince (Google it). In a world full of Submariner admiration, I think this watch is a big win for the brand. Rolex doesn’t really embrace classicism, but they should.

The smooth black and white dial of the first 1908 model was a well-balanced work of art. But the choice of ice blue set in platinum ups the game. A rice grain pattern radiates from the sub-seconds register at 6 o’clock, and the minute track is outlined with fluted guilloche. A striking combination of color and vibrant pattern makes the Perpetual 1908 even better. Needless to say, the watch is powered by the 1908’s exclusive caliber 7140, which can be seen in action through a rare exhibition case back for Rolex. Coupled with the flawless case finishing in platinum, this 1908 is my favorite Rolex in years.

What are your favorite surprises of 2024? Let me know in the comments, especially if you’ve noticed any more surprising releases. If my choices seem highly subjective and personal, that’s because they are.