Time + Tide
Vintage-inspired skin divers have been around for a few years now, with many brands releasing their own take on the style. Ed Cho is one man who is passionate about the style, and he still is today. Cho founded the Toronto-based brand. Ed released this watch a few years ago, and the Fleux FLX003 is his third release. The previous models, the FLX001 and FLX002, were also vintage-inspired skin divers. With this new model, Ed wanted to bring to the world yet another version of a modern, vintage-inspired diver’s watch made for the amateur diver, which was the original intent of this style of watch, paying homage to the new icons of the 1960s and 1970s.
Incident
The FLX003 case is the same as that of the FLX001 and FLX002. Its design is reminiscent of the golden age of skin divers with the commonalities of an unprotected screw-down crown, a smaller case (compared to that of professional divers), a bulging caseback, and straight-cut lugs. And that is exactly what you see in this watch. The Fleux FLX003 has a solid presence on the wrist, especially vertically, but this is offset by its somewhat shorter lug-to-lug length. Overall dimensions are: 38mm diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug, 14mm thickness, 20mm lug width. The FLX003 is taller, but this is largely due to the vintage-inspired domed hesalite crystal, which in itself sums up the entire philosophy of the 1960s skin divers. Additionally, the case has a muted alternating brushed and polished finish that looks good in a variety of situations.
Where the Fleux differs from the model it inspired is in its water resistance. The OG Skin Divers were water resistant to 50-150 meters, which was considered enough for us regular guys to snorkel and dive. However, the Fleux FLX003 is water resistant to 200 meters thanks to its screw-down crown and case back. The crown is quite small (5.8mm) as was common on skin divers, but it’s easy to grab and operate to set the time. Additionally, the FLX003 comes with a bidirectional friction-fit countdown bezel with an aluminum insert.
Dial
A key design element of the FLX003 is a giant inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, paying homage to the 1960s Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle ref. 165.024, which was commissioned by the UK Ministry of Defence (MOD) and developed for military use. The triangle is what first sparked Ed’s love affair with the Seamaster 300, a model that other brands still frequently pay homage to, and what inspired him to incorporate the design into his third release. The dial also features the 3-6-9 configuration seen on the aforementioned Seamaster, as well as the iconic broad arrow hands.
Taking inspiration from military divers, the Fleux FLX003 comes with understated branding with the brand name under an inverted triangle, logo and text printed under a pinion. Finally, the generous use of vintage Radium Super-LumiNova C3 here contributes to giving the FLX003 a strong vintage feel.
strap
The Fleux FLX003 ships on a Seaqual strap made from recycled ocean plastic. This strap is sturdy in construction but soft to the touch, with a canvas-like texture on the outside and soft leather on the inside. The strap is equipped with quick-release spring bars and a branded stainless steel buckle. The design of this strap makes the FLX003 look great in a variety of conditions, but we always recommend replacing it with a fully waterproof strap when you’re in the ocean.
motion
Ed chose the Seiko NH38A, a sturdy, durable movement that vibrates at 21,600vph, has a 41-hour power reserve, and is easy to maintain by any competent watchmaker.
Fleux FLX003 Pricing and Availability
Fleux FLX003 is Brand website Starts September 19, 2024 at 11AM ET. Price: $499 USD.
Brand Fleux Model FLX003 Case Size 38mm (D) x 14mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) Case Material Stainless Steel Water Resistance 200 meters Crystal Domed Hesalite Dial Black Lug Width 20mm Bracelet Black Sequal Strap, Pin Buckle Movement Seiko NH38A, Automatic Power Reserve 41 Hours Functions Hours, Minutes, Seconds Release Date September 19, 2024 Price $499 USD
