[F]Interpreting Dirty Dozen Watches as an affordable microbrand

We often hear things like, “This watch is a true classic,” or “This is a timeless design.” Typically, such statements refer to big names in the watch industry, such as Rolex and Submariner, Omega and Speedmaster, or Audemars Piguet and Royal Oak. Either because its design is simple and truly timeless, or because it was novel and strange when it was first released. What they all have in common is that they age like a classic car, a well-tailored suit, and a good pair of sunglasses. However, these terms usually refer to the entire product, not just the design. It’s the packaging – the brand, the material, and the wrists of the stars who wore it best. (The 1945 Dirty Dozen watch was also specially designed with reliable functionality in mind.

Strictly structured design elements such as the large hands, Arabic numerals, monochromatic color scheme and small seconds at 6 o’clock make it highly legible at all times. Yes, the Dirty Dozen watches were also rugged, with hacking movements and shock-resistant acrylic crystals. But when we think of “The Dirty Dozen,” we primarily think of the dial (at least that’s what I think). If I say,Reverso,” Let’s consider what happens when you flip over onto your side. If I say,speed master,”, a simple three-register chronograph layout comes to mind. right? In short, the dial of the Dirty Dozen watch is so iconic that the brand continues to reimagine it, which is the subject of this article.

Try Dirty Dozen Watches from Micro/Indie Brands

I only write about micro/indie brands. Therefore, today’s selection comes from a niche area of ​​the watch market. We have three brands based in the US (Tuul, Vaer, Praesidus), one in Singapore (Vario), one in Japan (Kuoe), and one in South Africa (Draken). I chose to highlight these six brands because I have personally worked with their watches. There are other models that make Dirty Dozen inspired models, and two of the OGs, Timor and Vertex, still make them.. All six brands we’re talking about today offer different experiences at different price points. But nothing exceeds the $1,000 price limit that causes stress. To keep things simple, we ordered the most affordable to least affordable brands/models. Finally, I’ve listed prices in USD for consistency. Let’s go!

Vaer C3 Dirty Dozen — $254

Vaer produces several models based on the Dirty Dozen watch with quartz or automatic movements and diameters of 36 mm or 40 mm. What I dealt with was 36mm quartz modelBy the way, this is the most affordable watch. For $254, you get a model with a 40-month battery life, an American-made American quartz caliber with a -10/+20 second monthly difference, a single-domed sapphire crystal, and 15 layers of Super-LumiNova BGW9 in the hands and hour hands. . Markers, 100m water resistance rating, screw-down crown, screw-down case back. The case has an all-brushed finish and is smooth to the touch, making the crown easy to operate. The Vaer Dirty Dozen’s design features a large syringe-style handset. Everything else is classic Dirty Dozen design, including the Railroad minute track, large Arabic numerals, and sub-seconds register (I won’t repeat that part for other watches). This Vaer C3 Dirty Dozen is also currently the only battery-powered option.

Dimensions: Diameter 36mm, 4Length between lugs 3mm, thickness 9.4mm, lug spacing 20mm.

Vario 1945 D12 — $368

of Vario 1945 D12 It was the most affordable Dirty Dozen watch I know of. That’s not the case anymore, but for me it’s still the most fun. I like the oversized crown, black-on-black recessed logo, polished accents, and raised center section of the sub-seconds register. All of this gives the Vario 1945 D12 a lighthearted character that I really appreciate. This is also a well-built and well-specced option. It features a 3Hz Miyota 82S5 caliber with a 42-hour power reserve, generous amounts of BGW9 and C3 lume, a sapphire crystal, a 100m water resistance rating, a screw-down crown, and a screw-down caseback. The Vario is the simplest of the six models presented here, as the logo is very subtle. If black isn’t your thing, the 1945 D12 also comes in beige, gray, and green.

Dimensions: 37mm diameter, 45mm lug length, 10.5mm thickness, 18mm lug spacing.

Draken Aoraki Mil Spec — $399

Draken has established a reputation for producing ultra-rugged and affordable tool watches. design of Aoraki Mil Spec It’s the least traditional of the six here today, but it deserves a spot on the list. This is the Dirty Dozen watch and A-11 It came up a while ago. The latter adopts a sans-serif typeface with Arabic numerals, a pure monochromatic color scheme, and a simplified minute track. But everything else is Dirty Dozen. In terms of specs, it has the same Miyota 82S5 as the Vario 1945 D12, plus magnetic protection with a soft iron cage (up to 20,000 A/m), flat sapphire crystal, water resistance to 100 m, and screw-down closure. Crown, screw-down caseback, and great lume. This lume has a slightly aged tone, but doesn’t lean towards Fortina. Draken offers the Aoraki with a four-less “Dirty Dozen-y” dial layout.

Dimensions: 39mm diameter, 46.5mm lug length, 12.35mm thickness, 20mm lug spacing.

Que Oldsmith 90-009 — $566

Vario is the most fun, but Que Old Smith 90-009 It is the most elegant of all six thanks to its size, finish, and case-to-crown ratio. A set of giant brushed sword hands fly over the finest textured matte dial. The fully polished case makes this model look fancier than it needs to be, especially when you look at the small crown (I think the small crown is elegant!). The proportions of the hands, markers and dial are also interesting, as the printed Arabic numerals are very large compared to the dial. These elements create an interesting contrast to the traditional Dirty Dozen layout of the dial. Spec-wise, we find the Miyota 82S5 again, but with a domed sapphire crystal, good (unspecified) lume, 50 meter water resistance rating, push/pull crown, and screw-down caseback.

Dimensions: 35mm diameter, 42mm lug length, 12mm thickness, 18mm lug spacing.

Praecidas DD-45 — $875

of Praecidas DD-45 This is odd, since this is the brand’s most expensive model to date (by a wide margin). That’s because Praesidus has first enhanced the design with this version, which is (for me) the most modern of all six versions. The printed Arabic numerals are quite small, but they balance well with the hands and add a useful negative space. This emphasizes the fine-grained dial, fully brushed hands and color-matched minute track. The tropical version I carried also had a special feel, a bit ultra-vintage, but in a good way. Spec-wise, Praesidus gives you a lot of bang for your hard-earned money. It features a 4Hz Landeron L24 6UHR caliber with a 40-hour power reserve, double-domed sapphire crystal, raised hour markers, polished polished accents, 100 meters depth, screw-down crown, and screw-down caseback. . If tropical isn’t your thing, the Praesidus DD-45 is available in factory fresh and patina versions.

Dimensions: 38mm diameter, 45mm lug length, 11.8mm thickness, 20mm lug spacing.

Tour Filthy 13 — $899

Last but not least, Tour Philfcy 13 Reviewed by Balazs in July. This is the most expensive and most expensive of the six models. Timor Heritage Field WWW (One of two OG brands.) A watch’s price doesn’t necessarily equate to its greatness, but the Filthy 13 offers something interesting. Despite being the newest game, it is the one that looks the most authentic. It borrows certain design codes from the original Dirty Dozen watches, making it look modern and vintage (it’s the real deal, trust me). The brand got the proportions, design, and specs right, making the Filthy 13 a worthy 2024 replacement for the original Dirty Dozen. In fact, you’ll find a 4Hz Sellita SW261-1 caliber with a 41-hour power reserve, a sapphire crystal, impressive lume, a 100 meter water resistance rating, a screw-down crown, and a screw-down caseback.

Dimensions: 38mm diameter, 46mm lug length, 11.25mm thickness, 20mm lug spacing.

conclusion

Before writing this article, I thought price and specs were the main differentiating factors between models. But in reality, design makes it happen. And it’s the finish that makes one model more expensive than another, not necessarily just the movement, crystal, or amount of lume. Add some polished accents and a finely textured dial and the price increases. Add a Swiss movement and elaborately printed hour markers and logos and the price increases. Comparing all six models was an interesting experience for me. It’s amazing how the smallest design and technical details can make such a difference.

Of course, I love Tool Watch and The Dirty Dozen. And I like what each of these six models brings to the table. I have a few favorites between Draken and Barrio, but I’d like to know which one I prefer and why. Do you have a watch like the Dirty Dozen in your collection? If not, which of the six listed here would you consider adding? Let us know in the comments!