Before I start this article, there are some things I have to confess. I don’t currently have my favorite Rolex dating just. It’s not because I don’t like watches, but because I tried to find them, it’s the exact opposite. If I can’t immediately name my favorite reference for this 10th century Rolex model, it’s simply because I’ve never spent time knowing what it is. What is a better time to do that than when I’m writing this? Aside from the meaning of procrastination, please join me by understanding that I am (and soon to be established) opinion, the best Rolex date of all time.
Why am I not sure anymore? Well, I had never been in a hurry to find it. DateJust is not my favorite Rolex model. I still respect 80 years of history and enjoy the concept behind the watch. I really like the appearance of some of the configurations. That being said, due to the ubiquitous nature of DateJust, I have never felt the great urgency to get it for myself. This is my 1961 Omega Seamaster ref for me. The 14762 served as a stand-in for the low stakes with a Jungley Bead bracelet, date window and 34.5mm case. Some may consider the sacrifice, but it’s hard to feel like you need to scratch when the proverb itch isn’t there. This meant I never spent much time going down the rabbit hole I had dated. And after it existed 80 years later, it is deep.
My standard for perfect Rolex dateJust
Now I was completely unprepared (almost). When searching for the perfect Rolex Datejust, there are several criteria that can be used to significantly narrow down your candidates. Unlike Mike and RJ, there are no personal attachments in the DateJust reference. But what’s fascinating might be those with heart-warming stories and provide personal links to just dates. I can chase my nose and summarise the key factors that make the perfect date for me. The first one is the quick set day. This is a harsh need, as I learned from that lack of vintage sailors.
I’m one of those nervous people that wants to set the time and date of the watch accurately before I wear it. A quick set cannot be negotiated as simply setting the date to the 29th when stopped on the 3rd is enough to ruin my day or reach for another clock. Other standards are more flexible, but less important. First of all, I want the date to feel vintage. This means a 36mm case with a jubilee bracelet with plexiglass crystal. I love the warm, Youngly Vintage vibe of the Jubilee and Plexi combination. Materially, it is steel for me. Not gold, not two tones, just steel (well, and perhaps steely white gold on the bezel).
ref. 1603 “Wide Boy”
When it comes to dialing, there are many fewer. The “wideboy” or linen dial is just as crazy as I’m happy to go. Can hold stone, wood, tapestry and buckley dials. The last note is that I am not a fan of the bezel that reached the engine. The grooved bezel works, but I’m also a huge fan of smooth bezels. At this point, you will see that anyone who maintains the score is more likely to land on one of the DateJust Refs. 16014 or 16000.
Runner-up: Rolex dateJust Ref. 16000
Please tell us why the Rolex DateJust 16000 was almost the winner here. Until just a few weeks ago, the Smooth-Bezel 16000 would have taken the top spot for me. At one point I was considering the 16,000 oyster bracelet as my pick. Shortly afterwards, I realized that the smooth bezel and oyster bracelet combo was appealing and might not feel like a “proper” date just. At that point, I was creating a permanent thing about an annoying oyster that was misled by my preference for a 36mm explorer. So, since Jubilee had to stay, I also decided to keep my distance from the dials that look like a dark explorer.
Image: Bulang & Sons
What’s pictured here since it was sold by Bulang & Sons is a prime example of what I want to do. The grey dial is wonderfully subtle and adds a bit of a strange character to the watch. The silver print is also less severe and combined with a smooth bezel, giving it a slightly leaning leaning towards a sportier direction. So why wasn’t this one? That goes back to what I’ve already mentioned. This 16000 is definitely a handsome watch, but I wasn’t on a good enough date. And as much as I enjoy the paradoxical charm of doing this as the biggest thing ever, it didn’t sit right in my mind. I got lost and the answer was lost.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Image: Bulang & Sons
Image: Bulang & Sons
It was until I visited a friend’s safety deposit box, he got some date just. He was trading for something special and was facing a tough phone call. Only one of the two was able to stay. One of the date just had a smooth bezel and a silver dial, and the other one that he had ultimately held – and I kept quietly plaguing at it, and finally informed me of my decision to go to 16014, which is seen below.
My favorite Rolex DateJust is the ref of all time. 16014
Now that you’ve found one, let’s run the checklist again right away. Quick Set Day, Plexiglass, Jubilee bracelet, 36mm case, White gold fluted bezel, stainless steel case and bracelet. Yes, this checks all boxes. The last thing to choose was the dial to the right. And that’s where my friend’s dates come out. It showed us this fascinating combination of a golden “Champagne” dial and stainless steel and white gold watches. I already knew from the vintage sailor’s patina but didn’t know it existed on a date. Once again, I headed over to a friend at Blanc & Sons and found the perfect (but sadly already sold) example.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The only thing that needs clarification is my two-tone rejection. This referenced the case and bracelet material. Nowadays, grooved bezels are almost always made from gold, but the white gold ones here maintain the white metal look. It’s when you think of your dial and your hand that’s tricky. They have a yellow gold appearance that can be considered two-tone when combined with a steel case and bracelet. However, this is still a steel date, and perhaps at most two tones.
Still, I find this strange and potentially suspicious combination (there’s yet to be a ju-decided jury about whether these dates look like this) to be as unassumingly appealing as they come. There are certain easy cripples with the right amount of grandeur that does this date justice, with the right amount of grandeur.
Just watching it, I quickly disappear into the fantasies of a slow late-night drive somewhere along the Mediterranean coast, spending the evening, a box-shaped, convertible transport (you name it – take off the roof), and spending the evening in the evening. It’s this golden face date that I look down at my wrist and say time (it doesn’t matter). Men can dream!
Final thoughts
That hopeful vision for my perfect date seems like a good place to leave things behind. And let’s see how long we’ve been since we started over a few thousand words ago! I have my favorite Rolex dating just now. In the research I have done since selecting a candidate, its ref. 16014 DateJusts runs around 4k-6k euros depending on the conditions and rarity (there are a bit more outliers). The golden apple of my eyes sits at the high end of that range and can be obtained for around 5,500 euros.
What do you think about my standards for a perfect date just? And do you like my final pick too? Please let me know in the comments below. Please join again on Saturday. Vote among all your favorite date just and win the best crown.
