[f]doxa sub 200 polish steel bezel collection

Doxa is back with a new release! This time we’re looking at the popular and affordable sub-200 variant. The 42mm dive watch was released at Baselworld in 2019. This is the first major update.

We visited Doxa on our first night while in Geneva for clocks and wonders and adjacent events. We were able to see everything about the sub-250T GMT model, but the brand held a second watch case at the back table until the second half of the meeting. These works had been under an embargo for another month, but there was plenty of time for the new Sub 200. How new is it? The bezel loses the sapphire insert and acquires a polished stainless steel version. This small change is welcome and makes a huge difference.

Doxa Sub 200 Polished Steel Bezel

DOXA retained the current sub-200 case dimensions of the latest model with a polished steel bezel. This will be converted to a 42mm x 45mm 316L stainless steel case with a thickness of 14mm. As the name suggests, the watch has a depth rating of 200m. Typical diving aids, such as screw-in crowns, steel screw-in casebacks and sapphire crystals, can help to enhance water resistance.

As for variants, DOXA is sticking to what works with the existing Sub 200. Yes, models with sapphire bezels remain in the catalog. A total of eight dial variations are part of the regular catalogue, including Orange Professional, Black Shark Hunter, Silver Sunraysia Wrangler, Yellow Diving Star, Dark Blue Caribbean, White White Pale, Turquoise Aquamarine, and Green Sunrays Sea Emerald.

Each variant includes a generous application of Super Luminova, a blue glowing blue in the hand of polished metal. The one-way bezel has bright arrows to aid in timing.

Lots of options

DOXA features a stainless steel pin buckle with the textured FKM rubber strap Sub 200 as standard. For an additional 40 euros (pricing details soon), the watch comes with a stainless steel beads of slice bracelet with wetsuit and an expansion clasp. The Green Sea Emerald is the only model offered in one-piece nylon straps instead of rubber.

Internal, reliable automatic movement

Doxa keeps options open and doesn’t mention the provider of automatic movements within the Sub 200. However, I am sure the Sellita SW200-1 is clicking. It is frequently 28,800VPH and has a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. There is also a hacking and quick date function.

Does a polished bezel make a difference?

Replacing the sapphire bezel insert for a sophisticated stainless steel version doesn’t sound like a big deal. On paper, it’s not! However, this option directly makes a big difference. The Sub200 moves from a serious tool watch to a brighter, more elegant piece. These won’t suddenly become dress watches, but they are cleaner and suitable for a wider range of environments. Incidentally, Doxa is not alone in this move. Omega did it in the past with the Seamaster 300m, while Tudor attacked the Submariner in the 90s with a mirror-like bezel. The look works and hopes to be successful for anyone who wants to wear a sub 200 on the office and the beach.

Price and final thoughts

What’s great about the latest Sub 200 Piece is that the pricing matches the models equipped with Sapphire-Bezel. The nylon strap Sea Emerald sells for 970 euros, the FKM strap piece is 1,110 euros and the bracelet option is 1,150 euros. There is nothing to discuss about these prices. Better yet, all watches are available on the DOXA site and on the certified retailer. Again, it’s a small change, but worth it! Tell us what you think about polished stainless steel bezels!

This is a partnership post. Read about transparency here.

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